silverpoison

I am doing some major suspension upgrages right now to my car, but I am having a hard time deciding on some of the parts, I like to get it perfect on the first try.

My set up is as follows:

STEEDA RACE HD FRONT SWAY BAR
STEEDA RACE HD REAR SWAY BAR
EIBACH PRO KIT WITH ALIGMENT KIT
TOKIKO D'SPECS
METCO UPPER CONTROL ARM
METCO LOWER CONTROL ARMS
METCO ICM BRACKETS (ANTI SQUAT)

For you guys using any of the following parts, please give me some recommendations. thank you.

??????????????STEEDA OR BMR PANHARD BRACE
??????????????STEEDA OR BMR PANHARD BRACE
??????????????STEEDA BUMPSTEER KIT


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06GT4RAD

I just installed the BMR Panhard Bar and Upper Support. I am having a small issue with the upper support hitting the stock mid pipe but I think that may be fixed by some further adjustment on it. If you do go with the BMR you can get them in Silver I think to match your car. Just go to BMR's site and order direct. I can say that the quality look great and they are very beefy parts. The stock parts are a freakin joke. The stock panhard bar is filled with sand and the upper support is nothing more than thin sheet metal. I plan to upgrade some more stuff with the rest of the BMR parts.

Richard

CrazyAl

I have been researching suspension parts as well. Here are some thoughts I had:

A lot of companies (BMR, Spohn, etc) are making LCAs and Panhard bars. There are basically the same variations: Those with polyurethane bushings (most street freindly) and those with spherical joints (most flexible, but more road noise--race oriented). Also, you see some in Chrome-Moly and some in regular steel.

Personally, I think that the "combo" type of bars are the best--those with a polyurethane bushing one end and the spherical bearing on the other. You get better flex compared to a poly-poly bar, but you still have the poly cushioning to take up some road noise. It seems like a good compromise for a street driven car that you want to maximize the handling out of.

Therefore, I suggest the Spohn panhard rod. They are the only maker I found that offers an adjustable Panhard bar that has poly on one end and a spherical joint on the other. Adjustable is key if you are lowering the rear of the car.

Regarding Chrome-Moly: Chrome-Moly steel isn't any "stronger" than regular steel. It's STIFFER. (Stiffness and strength are not the same thing.) Any improved stiffness from the Chrome-moly isn't going to show itself if you have any poly or rubber in the part--you'll distort the hell out of the bushing before the steel itself would stretch. Therefore, I think it's a waste of money to buy the Chrome-moly control arms, panhard rods, etc, UNLESS you are going the all-out race route and have spherical joints everywhere (no rubber/poly bushings).

Adjustable vs. Solid:

A solid bar is always going to be stronger, stiffer, and lighter than an adjustable one. A solid bar has no extra parts, nothing to work loose or wobble, no threads to wear out, etc. I would always choose a 1-pc part unless you actually NEED and are going to use the adjustability. Oh, they're cheaper too. Ask yourself if you really need the adjustable bars.


Billet Aluminum:

I don't care for the billet aluminum control arms. Yes, they look nice. However, even "plain" steel is much, much, stronger than the 6061 aluminum that most of the billet bars are made from--and besides, who is going to see those parts anyway? I would choose a tubular steel bar over the aluminum ones. BMR, Spohn, etc, all make very nice tubular steel control arms.