Is FRPP the best install kit to go with or should I try another brand? Is the actual install pretty difficult or can a average shadetree mechanic pull it off. I don't have much car or rear diff expertise but I am an aircraft mechanic and I'm fairly familiar with a wrench in general. I ask cause the closest SVT dealer to me is in Lubbock TX about 1.5 hours from me. Please advise.

 

I don't find rear end setup to be hard. If you've got mechanic experience, it shouldn't be a problem.

On the other hand, it is a pain in the butt and can be quite time consuming. It's basically your choice. Do you want to spend a few hours cussing and fooling with it yourself, or do you want to have it done somewhere?

By the way, this shouldn't require a SVT dealership. Any mechanic shop should be able to do gears...

 

The only reason I say SVT is cause they may be a little less prone to void my warranty if I use ford parts. There are also no speed shops closer to me than lubbock or amarillo anyway.

 

Yeah, I understand your concern about warranty issues. Just to be clear, what I meant was that ANY auto mechanic shop should be able to do the work, not just a "speed shop". Rear-end gears are nothing special. Changing gears is a common procedure, either for maintenance or for mods, on many different cars. People swap gears not just for acceleration, like us musclecar guys, but also in reverse for fuel economy, or for the offroad guys that run huge tires, etc. The procedures are pretty much the same for most axles, and haven't changed in many years. I would say that anyone who calls himself an auto mechanic should be able to do this, speed shop or not. Your local Ford dealer (SVT or otherwise) could do it, for example. Any transmission shop or general "auto repair" place will be able to do it as well.

You might consider buying the Ford parts and then having whomever do the install. That might help to alleviate any warranty issues too.

For what it's worth, all install kits are basically the same. You can get one from whereever. Though, it might be worthwhile to get the Ford one just to alleviate any warranty BS.

 

I used the Ford gears in mine. Smooth install, no problems. Worth the extra $$$ just do to the ease of the install....

If you have access to calipers, dial indicator, inch lb torque wrench and air for 1/2 inch impact gun it's pretty straight forward....

 

The Ford gears are your best bet. I used the 4.10s and are very quiet. As far as changing the gear-set yourself, only you know how skilled you are and whether you have a suitable place to do it. You really need a lift for the 8.8. There's just way too much work to do underneath the diff. without one. It's not like pulling out a 9-inch carrier and putting it on a workbench. Do you have mechanic buddies to bail you out if you have a problem. If you have a lift and you know what you are doing, it's a 4-hour job. Without a lift, it could be all day! I'm an A&P mechanic turned Porsche salesman and have played with cars since the 60's, but took my car to a shop I've known that has a lot of muscle car resto experience, because I wanted guys that do rear ends every day, not twice a year. Labor will be about $400 and the gear set about $200. Just my 2cents. Good luck, and you'll love the 4.10s.

 

Are there shims to cut or measure for the kit. As far as facilities I'll have access to a full garage lift tools and all if I do it myself.

 

The gear kit comes with pinion shims, crush colar and pinion nut. I had additional stuff with me because I hate running for parts in the middle of a job. I took a chance on not needing side shims and I didn't. Guys I have talked to about using the ford gears said they just use the old shims and no problems. This is the first 8.8 Ive done. Took me about 4 hours on jackstands in my garage.Gears are quiet and have about 20 runs at the strip no problems. Backlash ended up at the tight side of the spec and the contact die check was perfect.


1 F3TZ-4630-A Cone (pinion bearing) 30.29
1 F3TZ-4628-A Cup (pinion bearing cup) 17.10
1 B7A-4662-A Spacer pinion (extra crush sleeve just in case) 11.04
1 F89Z-4676-AA Seal (Again, just in case) 22.23
2 XY-75W140-QL Synthetic gear lube 49.12
2 XL-3 Friction modifier additive 13.28
1 Tube black or gray RTV
2 Cans brake clean

Meaure the old pinion head with calipers, if it's the same as the new pinion (mine was) use the original spacer. If it's different do the math to determine the spacer size.