viking396

Switching from the stock dual shaft to an aluminum one in a car with just the CAI installed might not get much improvement but it should help free up a little right?

ThisBlood147

It should. You are reducing rotational mass by at least half with an aluminum one piece shaft. This reduction means less powerloss through your drivetrain.......which means more of your crank ponies making it to the back wheels.

chevykiller

Yes, it didn't work for me personally so I was a little skeptical. It turned out it didn't work for me cause my pinion angle was chaged with my drag set-up and I was getting vibration over 90 mph. I like the way my car is set-up to launch so I'm keeping it and going with a 1-piece steel shaft. Anyway, I did a lot fo research and questions and found that most guys shaved a whole 1/10th off their time with the aluminum 1-piece by itself. I also discovered small but noticeable acceleration improvements in the low gears. Good buy IMO


Mark

viking396

Agreed, I feel it would help a smidge as well, heck dumping the 18" fan blades for much light 16" drag lights would probably get me more... hmmmmmmm funny how 16" wheels on my Fox Mustang looked great but on my '06 they'll look tiny...

chevykiller

Go the ranger conversion route and then get both (driveshaft and rims). With both of them and the front swaybar gone, I bet you'll get up to 3/10's faster - possibly 4. Your 60' will see a big reduction. You don't realize how heavy those fanblades are unitl you actual pick up a drag lite, weld, or bogart, and then you're like, what the heck! and you realize the front tires are HEAVY.

Mark

Nichepi

Any how many of you have ACTUALLY HAD a CF unit?
I myself had used tested CF shafts since 99 on a 99 cobra, 01 cobra, 04 cobra and I'm waiting for our 06 unit.
In every instance the unit we had was lighter (aluminum ends) and better then any aluminum unit we got from FRPP or other competitors in the market.
Our CF unit with aluminum ends for our 01 cobra with a replaced solid axle weighed only 11lbs.
We saw night and day benefits immediately such as reduced vibrations (most the time most vibrations disappeared), quick rev matching, easier shifting, HP and trq gain through dyno numbers and so on. No rusting and these units tend to be internal balanced so theirs no external weights.

Granted the prices over all have been much more then aluminum units but I'd never on my worst day with a CF unit ever say I'd take an aluminum unit instead.
And under very few circumstances have I heard CF shafts coming part on a street or race stang. As examples I’ve wheels fly off and hit the shaft on the ground, slid off of tracks and I just didn’t see these units come “flying apart�.

I would ask chevykiller to show me some of his personal examples of these showqueen items on his mustang or vehicles to back up his claims through direct usage.

I give the benefit of the doubt to many whom start taking about CF units and not having one due to cost but I think many of the statements made above were false.

Now for a majority of the market I would say yes an Alum unit is the path you should take due to vehicle needs and budget. But just some of the points made above I have never seen. And I can say through years of direct usage I have never seen these problems.

spyder7724

with the ranger style shaft in my car i picked up just a tick over 2 tenths .214 to be exact. at that time the only other mod to my car was a tune from lidio @ alternative auto. the more power you have the less difference you will see with a lightweight shaft. we put an aluminum shaft in a top sportsman car last year and got almost nothing(12lb. weight reduction). thats because it has 1200hp so freeing up a few lbs. in the driveline did very little. prostock and other specific class cars use them because they need everything no matter how small the gains due to the intense level of competition. carbon fiber is great but very expensive. the only one on the market i know of is BMR's. it's supposed to hold 1200hp. to my knowledge there are no 3V 05-up cars making over 1000hp and racing to test that claim but i'm sure it's stronger than mine. mine is lighter than theirs though... only by 1/2 lb though but its still lighter so... weight is not the issue--- cost and durability are the issues. my shaft total price $320 16.5lbs BMR c/f $1200+ 17lbs. the choice is yours.

Nichepi

BMR doesn't make them, their PST units which I have been using for 6 years.
But I can see definitely your point of view on you ROI on a product such as this. While you want a product that can handle the power its long term benefits plateau after so much in comparison to other units.
I mean like you said after 1200HP what’s 12lbs or 10 more HP.
And granted the only vehicle that would be consistently seeing this level of HP would be drag racers as opposed to auto-X people.

classj

I wouldent use carbon fiber. You are literally depending on epoxy resin to hold that shaft together. What is going to happen with time, heat, grease, road grime, salt, deteriation. I wouldent do it. Aluminum seems like a better choice but one must question what is wrong with steel??

Out of curiosity. What is wrong with the stock units design that it requires replacing???

Nichepi

Well based off of that same statement I guess we should be waiting for wings to fly off of planes and ships to spontaneously sink. Space shuttles wouldn't take off, military bombs would never make it any where.
Based off of your examples of above of heat, road grime and saly, Metal parts are more likely to cordoe fast then Cabon Fiber and expoxy.
You know the panzo's car is made out of full carbon fiber as well as the koenigsegg supercar, I guess we should be waiting for teh resign on teh very expenisve cars to fail at any second.