kss3valve

This makes up for it!!


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Black06stang

I have removed the rear seat, and it weights less than 10 lbs. Its just foam and plastic. Stick your hand under the seat on the far left and the far right sides. You will feel a tab, push the tab in and lift the seat out. Then post back and tell everyone else that the seat weights less than 10 lbs.

bcc333

...ask the wife if she would take the bus...cuts down on noise also.

05S281 71

I have found a few secret weight reduction items not yet mentioned. Under the car, under where the driver's and pass seats are, there are two very heavy brackets bolted to the floor with two rubber squeegee type things rivited to them. I guess this is to protect the fuel tank in case you run over a driveshaft or a fork in the road. Unbolt these, (one on either side) and weigh it. You will be surprised.

The next item is for all of you automatic trans car owners. Under the car you have a torque converter inspection cover. Remove this and REPLACE it with a fabricated lightweight cover. I made one out of an old license plate flattened and I even put a rubber seal around the top sealing edge like the original. Weigh the factory cover and you will be surprised as well. I will keep some other secrets to myself for now. Hope this helps all of you diet fans a little.

CrazyAl

Another easy trick:

Underneath the rear seat (bottom) are a pair of steel brackets that, I presume, are there for anchoring child safety seats. These are easily removed, for free, if you are not using a child seat. That should be worth a few pounds.

Also, if you're taking out the rear seat, you might as well remove all the stuff that goes with it, not just the cushions. For example: rear seat belts, rear seat mounting brackets, and so on. The seatbelt retract assemblies are pretty heavy. I'd imagine that you could probably get 20+ lbs above and beyond the the seat cushions alone.

Kaldar142

for the first one unbolting the things under the seats, this is perfectly safe right?

how much of a weight lose are they really? i don't want to go and take something off and its not much

CrazyAl

A few more thoughts on weight saving ideas. Be forewarned as some of these may seem pretty extreme:

1) The power seat is definatley a lot heavier than the non-power seat. I had both my seats out for doing my sound damping project, and the weight difference between the drivers's seat (power) and the passenger's (not) is major. Non-power driver's seat or a proper race seat should save a lot of weight, easily.

2) Lightweight ring gear, or have your ring gear lightened. Supposedly this can save several pounds of rotating weight. Maybe buy light gears if you are already considering a ring & pinion swap?

3) Aftermarket panhard bar. Apparently the OEM one is filled with sand. Or, if you're handy in the shop, drill a hole in the stock one, drain the sand out, and weld up the hole.

4) Aluminum Flywheel and pressure plate

5) Trunk key-lock mechanism. Most people use the electric remote anyway. I've heard of a few guys removing this for cosmetic reasons; apparently it's a few lbs though that is heresay. (or, if you're hardcore go the other way and remove the electric latch actuator, which is probably heavier than the key lock. Ditto for the doors.)

6) Hood liner (ok, this isn't very heavy at all, but every bit counts)

7) Washer fluid tank, pump, hoses, etc. (depends on how often you use this)

8) The OEM hydraulic motor mounts are heavy. Replace them with an aluminum/poly set (Steeda or Prothane). That's a few lbs. Same for the Hydra-bushing on the front lower control arms. (Steeda has a kit for that).

9) The factory exhaust manifolds are heavy cast iron. Shorty headers would almost certainly be lighter. Also, ditch the cats.
I'll post more as I think of them.