praztek

Measure from the center of the tire tread to the top of wheel well. Seems easy enough.

MusiccityGT

Just to be certain we are on the same page, you are measuring the clearance between the wheel well opening to the side of the tire. Best to use a yardstick, or solid measuring stick. Just makes it easier. If you lower the car, it will shift the whole differential towards the drivers side, so you may have an inch of clearance on the passenger side and 3/4 of an inch on the drivers side. If it is out more than a tiny bit, you will need to get the adjustable panhard and make it a touch shorter than the stock one to bring the differential back in center.

moosestang

So correct me if i'm wrong. I plan on using the Roush rear springs to lower the rear. I can get non adjustable lca's and if need be I can get the lca relocation brackets to adjust the pinion angle or an adjustable upper control arm. The adj lca's are more expensive, but they seem counter preductive in eliminating flex being they are not one solid piece (I'm sure they are well made, but logically one solid piece should be better.)

CrazyAl

If you are lowering the rear then you need adjustable LCAs *OR* an adjustable UCA. This lets you correct your pinion angle.

LCA relocation brackets are for adjusting instant center. They have nothing to do with pinion angle.

praztek

So,

Just going with a non adjust. lca, and if rear end center is off, getting the adjustable panhard bar will not due the trick, I will also need a adjustable UCA?

This can't be that hard, I'm just seeing a couple different view points.

Thanks

CrazyAl

OK, assuming you have non-adjustable UCAs.

If you want to adjust the side-to-side position of the axle you need an adjustable panhard bar.

If you want to adjust the pinion angle, you need the adjustable UCA.

praztek

If I don't go the route of the IF items you have below, will this lessen the longevity of any other parts? That would be my main concern.

CrazyAl

The panhard bar adjustment is basically cosmetic. If your axle is offset it can look wierd, but it doesn't really affect anything longevity-wise. Keep in mind that this is one of those "your mileage may vary" situations. Depending on what your car is like stock, you might or might not decide to do this--it's up in the air depending on "what cards you were dealt" and also how picky you are on how things look.

For what it's worth, after installing Roush springs on the rear of my car, my rear-end side-to-side measurements differed by only 5/16 of an inch. I am **** about things being "perfect", but I doubt that most people would even notice that.

The pinion angle adjustment is important, IMHO. If the pinion angle is off, it will cause increased drivetrain vibration which will in turn shorten the life of the driveshaft joints and the bearings in the rear end.

Personally speaking (and this is just ADVICE, not etched-in-stone fact), I would go ahead and get both the panhard bar and the adjustable CAs. The panhard bar isn't particularly expensive, and it's also a decent suspension upgrade in and out of itself, so I'd go ahead and get one.

praztek

Ok, I measured the clearance for both rears. Just have the Roush rear springs for now.

Driver Side: 1/8"
Passenger Side: 3/8 "

I hung a piece of fishing line with weight from the top center wheel well.

praztek

I already have the non adj lower control arm coming in and seeing how I can make the same adj with adj upper control arms, guess I'll get em along with the panhard bar to make everything right. Any reasoning for returning the non adj rear and getting the adj rears and non adj fronts?

Thanks