I'm in the process of eliminating that annoying wheel hop. Currently I have the Roush rear springs,stock tires, and one piece aluminum driveshaft. I've purchased the Che Adjustable LCA's.

If calling a shop, they should know what to do, when I ask them to check/adjust the pinion and transmission shaft? Anything else I should have them adjust? From what I'm reading that if I choose to go with a wider tire in the back, I'll have to get this all re adjusted again?

When I purshed the Roush springs, I was told to just verify that the oem lca's are parallel with the ground,and nothing else needed to be checked?

I called Powerhouse per my changing my order to the adjustable Che's. They said 95 % of all customers go with the fixed length. If any changes need to be made, then you get a adjustable upper. And if the back is that much out of whack, you get the adjustable panhard bar.

?

Sorry this is a double post in the handling/performance section, but need to know quickly since they are ready to be shipped. "Non Adjustable Ones"

Thanks

 

Your pinion angle will not change if you put non adjustable LCA's on. If you use the adjustables and or put in an adjustable upper third link (which you should consider), then your angle will need to be set between 3.5 and 4 degrees. I changed all of mine to race version adjustables and set it at 3.8 degrees. The only reason for an adjustable Panhard is if you drop the ride height enough to push the rear end off center. Adding the larger rear tires will not change the pinion angle or offset of the rear end. Hope that helps!

 

Very Good, so I'll keep the non adjustable lca order then. Am I ok without the upper third link or am I just looking for headaches down the road and just should buy now and have all of it installed the same time?

 

Double post from above.

 

I see a lot of track time, so mine needed the upper third link and I also did Steeda 3 point torque box braces. Mine hooks like it is on Velcro. It depends on your goal.

 

dont the roush springs lower the car? if so the pinion angle has changed somewhat and with a one piece driveshaft it probably matters more. And should it -2 to -4 ?. instant center was changed as well. the CHE antisquat brackets or other LCA lowering mounts will help restore proper angle and if one where to use lower mounts you may need the adjustable LCAs other than for that i dont know why else anyone would need adjustables. But i would like to know if anyone has an explaination. and on the lower front there may be caster camber bumpsteer problems.

 

Now I'm puzzeld, and the order is on its way. I'm not taking it to the track, just wanted to eliminate the wheel hop and not lessen the wear on any other suspension parts by adding the non adjustable lca.

Current Set Up

1 piece driveshaft, roush rear, and oem tires.


Thanks

 

Your springs will not change the angle enough to get you out of the Ford tolerance of negative 2 to 4 degrees. The negative 3.5 to 4 degrees is what Steeda quotes as the OPTIMUM pinion angle for the vehicle. When I installed my Steeda upper third link, I had a long discussion with them about it. If you are using non adjustable lowers and are dropping the ride height with the springs, you will only need to see if the rear end is off center. If so, you will need an adjustable Panhard bar to correct it.

 

Ok,

Advice on verifying the rear end is off center, or is this something I should take into a shop?

Thanks Again For All the Help!

 

Just measure the distance from the tire to the top of the fender well on each side and calculate any difference. They are rarely perfect from the factory.