Trying to see some ideas of what I should do to my car (havn't bought it yet). Just a hypothetical question to see what kind of things people would do to their car...What would you guys do to a 2007 Stock GT Automatic, and what would your goal be?

Hopefully I can come to some conclusions about what I should do and in what order.

 

Jeez...I have been reading a lot here and I just get more and more confused lol. Is there anywhere I could easily learn all the abbreviations and all the lingo here? I try to read what other people would suggest doing to my 07 GT and what they have done to theirs...I don't get the half of it lol. I'm glad I havn't actually bought this car yet, maybe I'm getting in way over my head

Who thought upgrading a GT Mustang with select parts togiveit a 150% HP increase could be hard!... Kidding.

 

First of all, get a tune/CAi combo. Auto GT's have sluggish throttle response. When the tune is in, Its a whole new car.

 

APPEARANCE
(1) Painted side mirrors
(2) Shorty antenna
(3) Tinted windows
(4) Aftermarket hood

PERFORMANCE
(1) Dynatech Headers + Borla Stingers Exhaust
(2) C&L Cold Air Intake and 93 Octane Brenspeed Tune
(3) FRPP 3.73 Gears
(4) Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
(5) BMR Lower Control Arms
(6) BMR Rear Sway Bar
(7) BMR Panhard Bar & Brace
(8) Snow tires

 

 

tune and CAI from brenspeed

 

you would have to give us what abbr you dont get.

here are a few of the top of my head

CAI- Cold air intake
vert- convertble
frpp-ford racing performance parts

i know there a bunch mroe; but thats all i can think of

 

I've put together a list of buzz words we use in our threads. I hope this will help the new people understand better and make informed decisions about what they need/want for their Poney. This is by no means complete or possibly correct so, if I'm wrong, it would be a great help if you experienced folks would chime in and help make it right. I certainly would not take any offense. Thanks, John.

TERMS


49 STATE KIT - Exhaust or power adder certified (or at least not illegal by statute) for street use except in California

AXLE BACK– Exhaust piping and muffler system add-on (usually the muffler only) that connects to the existing system aft of the rear axle

A/F – Air/Fuel Ratio

BHP - "Brake" Horsepower. "Brake" is an old word for Dyno and is a measure of horsepower at the flywheel

BLOWER – Supercharger

BOLT-ON - Add-on or modification that is designed so that the car owner can usually do the install without special tools

BOV - Blow off valve

BULLITT - A wheel design used on the Mustang driven by Steve McQueen in the movie of the same name

CAI - Cold Air Induction

CARB # - A serial number issued by the California Air Resources Board that certifies an exhaust add-on meets emission regulations

CAT - Catalytic Converter

CATBACK – Exhaust piping and muffler system add-on that starts after the catalytic converter

CEL - Check Engine Light

CROSSOVER PIPE - Any type of mid-pipe which connects dual exhaust pipes starting from the cats

DOHC – Dual Overhead Cam

DRONE - A low frequency sound that occurs at a specific RPM (usually 1800 – 2200) while the engine is under load

EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation system or valve

FI – Fuel Injection

F/I – Forced Induction

FOX BODY - A lightweight unibody architecture used on Mustangs built from 1979 to 1993

HiPo - The high performance version of a power adder which increases reliability and performance over the standard version

H PIPE - A type of exhaust crossover pipe in the shape of an "H"

H/C/I - Short for Heads, Cam and Induction

HID - High Intensity Discharge headlights commonly called xenon because of the gas used in the lamps

ID - Inside Diameter

IAT - Incoming Air Temperature sensor

IUP - Interior Upgrade Package

JUICE or JUICED - Term used to describe cars using nitrous oxide injection systems

LCA – Lower Control Arm

LSD – Limited Slip Differential

LT - Long Tube Headers

MAF - Mass Air Flow sensor

MANDREL BEND - A pipe bending method which reduces turbulence and increases flow because the diameter of the pipe stays the same throughout

NA – Normally/Naturally aspirated engine (No F/I)

NOS - The brand name of a nitrous system from Nitrous Oxide Systems. NOS is wrongly used to describe all nitrous systems thanks to the movie The Fast and The Furious.

NOS (when used with a part description) - New, Old Stock is a spare part which is new meaning never used, but the part may have been sitting in a crate for 50 years

o2 SENSOR - A probe that indicates precisely how complete the combustion of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinders is by measuring the oxygen content of the exhaust gas and is the starting point for controlling the A/F

OD - Outside Diameter

O/D - Overdrive

ODP - Overdrive Pulley

OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturer

PANHARD BAR/ROD - A bolt on bar which may or may not be adjustable that relocates the rear axle to the center of the car

PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation system or valve

PLENUM - Another way to say intake

RICE – Excessive combination of body panels, vendor decals, etc. You’ve seen them – usually cheap foreign cars with lawnmower engines and fart can mufflers (not to be confused with a RICE ROCKET which is very fast!)

RWHP – Horsepower measured at the rear wheel (on a rear wheel drive car) usually with a dynomometer

SC - Supercharger

SOHC – Single Overhead Cam

SHORTIES - Short tube headers

SNIFFER- Refers to Emissions testing at the exhaust tip

STALL SPEED - The engine RPM level at which the torque converter "locks" and overcomes whatever resistance is present - car weight, brakes on, etc. - and begins to spin the tires. The whole idea behind different stall speeds is to allow the car to launch at or just below the point where the engine makes the most torque. With the proper stall speed the engine can be revved to peak torque without breaking the tires loose. That way, the engine doesn't have to build up to the peak RPM point - all of the power is right there, on tap. The most important factors when selecting a torque converter is the camshaft, stall speed and weight of the car.

TAKE-OFFS - Stock exhaust, brakes, suspension or appearance parts taken off another car, usually a Mustang GT

TC - Turbocharger

T-LOC – A clutch/spring type of LSD

TB - Throttle Body

TORQUE CONVERTER - In automatic transmissions it takes the place of the manual clutch and is used to transmit power from the engine to the driveshaft. (See also STALL SPEED)

TRUE DUALS – Exhaust piping without crossovers

TUNER - Hand held device which re-progams the car's computer for greater performance and efficiency

TURN DOWNS - Exhaust piping turned downward directly after mufflers with no tailpipes

TRUETRAC - The brand name of a gear type LSD made by the Detroit Locker division of Eaton Corp

TT – Twin Turbochargers

UCA – Upper Control Arm

UDP - Underdrive Pulley

VERT- Convertible

WOT - Wide Open Throttle

Y PIPE - A type of exhaust mid-pipe, joining two pipes into one pipe, a second "y" can be used to split the pipes for a "fake"-dual exhaust setup

X PIPE - A type of exhaust crossover pipe in the shape of an "X"

 

+1

 

Thanks a lot, those abbreviations help a ton. NowI just need to look around and try to understand what everything does and what complete package I would want to transform a 2007 GT into a beast!