Fourth Horseman

I know lots of guys that have these pumps installed on their Marauders' 32 valve engines and they all speak very highly of them. Haven't heard of one failing yet. FWIW.

F1Fan

Hi FH,

My Meziere eH2O pump made a noise so I descibed it to Meziere and they sent me a new pumpwhich did not make the noise. The pump never actually failed as it was new and pumping coolant fine, I just was uncomforatble with the odd noise it made. But no matter it was taken care of by Meziere no problem.

Cheers/Chip

RodeoFlyer

they also dont cavitate at high rpm.

Androdz - did your Mustang come with at least a dummy tempgauge? I'm pretty sure they all doThat would give me an indication of a water pump failing

androdz

Ah ok I guess I was rather ambiguous because I already lost an engine due to an electronic water pump failing and not breaking the belt no warning until it was 2 late.

Andrew

androdz

It does but if the water is not flowing it overheats asap, when I saw the gauge within 10 secs I went to park it since I was on the highway and just when im about to turn it off 2-3 before the warning beep comes and exactly at that time bam cracked.

Andrew

fordfanboy

That sounds like it was a bad day. The 'dummy gauge' on these cars may help a 'little' but you could certainly destroy a head gasket before you knew it. I had a heating issue that cost me dearly that wasn't related to the pump. I installed a giant desiel trans cooler in front of my rad cause I was having trans heat issues and I was so stoked that my trans temps were fantastic I barely noticed my dummy gauge jump and when it did, I pulled over immediately but I had already blown a headgasket and caused some serious damage to the heads and a cylinder wall. I had an aftermarket Rad so I thought the trans cooler in front of it wouldn't be a big deal and it was an expensive lesson.

My point is the 'dummy' gauges are just that - dummy gauges - it really doesn't show you anything until it may be too late.

F1Fan

Hey Androz,

Don't you have a water temperature gauge? There is agauge in my '05 GTand it works just fine, it shows water temp rising and falling and if the temp gets too high I also get a light on the dash.

Cheers/Chip

androdz

Please read the above 2 replies and repost thanks!

Andrew

F1Fan

Hey All,

While I've not had a water pump failure on the S197 in my experience when a car is overheating you get plenty of warning signs. Usually the coolant would have to get pretty hot for the light to go on and in the mean time the gauge would be reading higher and higher. The other tip off is normally the steam and water pouringup out of the hood and smearing your windshield. If your pump failed and you didn't notice the lights and gauges warningyou it would normally still take some time for the coolant to heat up to the boilover point and for you to loose enough coolant to damage your engine. The engine must have been runing very poorly by then and you should have noticed it. The only possible way for the pump to have failed and your engine to overheat and cause engine damage would be if your engine had been overheating for a long period of time prior to the electric water pump failing. Then the coolant levlemight be marginal enough for you to not get a warning light or a high guage reading. But if that were true then the pump did not fail and cause the overheating it would have to be the reverse, the lack of water would have caused the pump to seize and your already damaged engine was the cause. This sounds more like a case of poor maintainence and inattention to your gauges and idot lightsthen any fault of the electric water pump. But sometimes the obvious is not so obvious at the time I suppose.

Cheers/Chip

androdz

You keep talking from your lack of experience... You get those signs usually when you break a hose or a clamp or something like that since there is a sudden vapor coming from the water touching the engine or the pressurized water escaping. If it has water and it is circulating but your radiator fan is dead it takes a while for the gauge to go up because of the volume of water. But if you loose the pump itself there is no water circulating so the volume of water being heated is diminished considerably. So it will heat a lot faster than if it was circulating because you are not using the entire volume of water in the cooling system. You are only using the water that is inside the engine On a side note the coolant levels were perfect and I am sure I take more care of my cars than you do. I do most of the installs myself and the repair work can you say the same? On the mean while why don't you keep recommending those super cams for the boosted s197's so I can laugh more. I am sure someone will get really pissed @ you when they finally find out they just threw 2k to the trash because of following the advice of a person that has no experience other than what the magazines say. Like I said on another post.... You are right after all...the sellers offer unbiased opinions so that they don't get into trouble. After all said is done I still smack myself in the forehead for buying the C&L intake when I could had bought the s&b performance intake because if rpmoutlet says it will give me 25rwhp dyno proven w/o a tune then it is true. I mean they wouldn't want to be liable for any false information would they?

Andrew