Most it can go....?
I am very new to the idea of supercharging my car. (in other words, I have just started to consider it because I have finished most of the basic bolt ons I wanted)
I was interested in the Kenne Bell or the Procharger. Both are opposite... (centrifugal and root). I wanted to know the highest boost level you can apply to a stock Mustang. What kind of parts would you need to replace in order for the car to handle the pressure/horsepower...? (ex: torque converter, driveshaft, gears)
???
Do any of you drivers out there have either of the two? If so, what kind of numbers are you getting and why are you getting those numbers?
-Thanks.
I was interested in the Kenne Bell or the Procharger. Both are opposite... (centrifugal and root). I wanted to know the highest boost level you can apply to a stock Mustang. What kind of parts would you need to replace in order for the car to handle the pressure/horsepower...? (ex: torque converter, driveshaft, gears)
???
Do any of you drivers out there have either of the two? If so, what kind of numbers are you getting and why are you getting those numbers?
-Thanks.
Kenne Bell is a twin-screw NOT a roots.
There is your first lesson!
Twin-screw will be more fun on the street because of the way the boost come on.
You should not go over 11 PSI with the stock engine rotating assembly.
At 10 PSI I have 450+ RWHP and run 11.4-11.7 times in the 1/4 mile.
There is your first lesson!
Twin-screw will be more fun on the street because of the way the boost come on.
You should not go over 11 PSI with the stock engine rotating assembly.
At 10 PSI I have 450+ RWHP and run 11.4-11.7 times in the 1/4 mile.
Here's the facts...
Stock motor properly tuned will handle 10-11 psi all day. Doesn't matter if it's a turbo, roots, TS, or centrifi.
After a rebuild -
Vortech and Paxton will handle around 14-15 psi with an 8 rib and some tensioner modification. You will have serious problems trying to keep a belt on the car after 15 psi.
Procharger runs strong but tricky to tune because it is air to air cooled and has the most driveability issues because of it - especially in warm weather. You can cog that thing to handle a belt at 30 psi but without major modifications, you ain't going to run more than 15 psi on the street.
Saleen - works strong up to 15 psi - that's your limit.
Roush - sucks so I don't care.
Whipple - runs hard at 12 psi and starts dropping off at 15 psi. I think 16 is the limit for the current kit.
KB - 2.6 will run great to 15 psi, after that - you need the 2.6HO and it will run strong to the 22-24 psi range.
Turbo 67mm - will run great in the 9-11 psi range and start falling off at 12 psi. 13 is about the max effeciency.
Turbo 76mm - will run up strong to 30 psi range with the right size downpipe and wastegate but you are maxed out on the street at 14 psi. Can't control street temps after that.
Twin turbos - most kits you can run those pretty hard in the 11 psi range
All kits can get you a bad street machine. My personal opinion is the best kits for a street car are watercooled systems. I live in california, so that plays a part as well.
Stock motor properly tuned will handle 10-11 psi all day. Doesn't matter if it's a turbo, roots, TS, or centrifi.
After a rebuild -
Vortech and Paxton will handle around 14-15 psi with an 8 rib and some tensioner modification. You will have serious problems trying to keep a belt on the car after 15 psi.
Procharger runs strong but tricky to tune because it is air to air cooled and has the most driveability issues because of it - especially in warm weather. You can cog that thing to handle a belt at 30 psi but without major modifications, you ain't going to run more than 15 psi on the street.
Saleen - works strong up to 15 psi - that's your limit.
Roush - sucks so I don't care.
Whipple - runs hard at 12 psi and starts dropping off at 15 psi. I think 16 is the limit for the current kit.
KB - 2.6 will run great to 15 psi, after that - you need the 2.6HO and it will run strong to the 22-24 psi range.
Turbo 67mm - will run great in the 9-11 psi range and start falling off at 12 psi. 13 is about the max effeciency.
Turbo 76mm - will run up strong to 30 psi range with the right size downpipe and wastegate but you are maxed out on the street at 14 psi. Can't control street temps after that.
Twin turbos - most kits you can run those pretty hard in the 11 psi range
All kits can get you a bad street machine. My personal opinion is the best kits for a street car are watercooled systems. I live in california, so that plays a part as well.
ORIGINAL: zkiller
Kenne Bell is a twin-screw NOT a roots.
There is your first lesson!
Twin-screw will be more fun on the street because of the way the boost come on.
You should not go over 11 PSI with the stock engine rotating assembly.
At 10 PSI I have 450+ RWHP and run 11.4-11.7 times in the 1/4 mile.
Kenne Bell is a twin-screw NOT a roots.
There is your first lesson!
Twin-screw will be more fun on the street because of the way the boost come on.
You should not go over 11 PSI with the stock engine rotating assembly.
At 10 PSI I have 450+ RWHP and run 11.4-11.7 times in the 1/4 mile.
hahaha, my bad... but why is it more fun? what about how the boost is applied that makes driving street fun? I rarely go to the track so I guess I could consider the car a street car...
ORIGINAL: tonkpils555666sas
hahaha, my bad... but why is it more fun? what about how the boost is applied that makes driving street fun? I rarely go to the track so I guess I could consider the car a street car...
ORIGINAL: zkiller
Kenne Bell is a twin-screw NOT a roots.
There is your first lesson!
Twin-screw will be more fun on the street because of the way the boost come on.
You should not go over 11 PSI with the stock engine rotating assembly.
At 10 PSI I have 450+ RWHP and run 11.4-11.7 times in the 1/4 mile.
Kenne Bell is a twin-screw NOT a roots.
There is your first lesson!
Twin-screw will be more fun on the street because of the way the boost come on.
You should not go over 11 PSI with the stock engine rotating assembly.
At 10 PSI I have 450+ RWHP and run 11.4-11.7 times in the 1/4 mile.
hahaha, my bad... but why is it more fun? what about how the boost is applied that makes driving street fun? I rarely go to the track so I guess I could consider the car a street car...
remember the boost button on the old arcade racing games?? I think you know what I mean...


