fordfanboy

The turbo kits create the MOST amount of heat under the hood of all the FI kits...

Get yourself a pyrometer gauge. It's a good gauge to have with a turbo IMO. Built motor or not, you have the advantage of easily being able to adjust the boost, but you will not be able to run big boost (14+ psi) on the street with that air to air cooled system. It will create problems on the street even on your new motor. Have to save the big boost for the track. If you can find someone to fab you a water aftercooler, you would have a lot more play in the power you could run as a daily driver.

fordfanboy

With a turbo - heat is your ENEMY. Anything to reduce temps is a GOOD thing. A good flowing hood is a good idea and for starters, get yourself a turbo blanket.

Example - http://www.forcedinductions.com/product7.htm

07BOSSGT_S197

Even the Hellion/Turbonetics system? I talked with some guys that had a similar system and another couple guys that had twin-screw blowers. They said a Turb system creates less heat. Is this not true with the S197 body style?

07BOSSGT_S197

got a turbo blanket....I kind of had the common sense to know that cold is always better than hot when it comes to ANY kind of FI.

fordfanboy

It has nothing to do with body styles. That's why I said get yourself a pyrometer. Your 'average' temp in your exhaust housing should be about 1000º-1200º degrees. You'll see 1400-1500º when you're on it. That's HOT!...lol Also understand how a turbo works - utlizing exhaust gasses = heat. Now factor in the main thing point which is most all of the s/c kits are water cooled and the turbo kits are air to air cooled.

This is why porsche switched to watercooled in 1997 and they instantly lost their reputation for having faulty cars. The older porsches that are air to air cooled suffer 90% of their issues from running too hot.

You may also be comparing apples to oranges. Dont' compare heat on a whipple running 10 psi to a turbo running 4 psi. You have to compare that whipple at equal boost levels. As long as you keep your boost respectable, you shouod be fine on your built motor. And you can run as much as you can handle at the track. I'm saying just don't try to run 14+ around on the street or you won't last long. I made great power with a turbo. I only got rid of it cause I couldn't make big power with a daily driver with it and that is what I was looking for in my particular car. Just pay attention to any mods that reduce temps. A larger aftermarket rad & Eh20 pump are good mods too.

Is your kit a draw (suck) through or a blow through? Another good way to make sure you are on top of things and getting the most accurate performance from your turbo is to make sure it is set up as a blow through. (reads are made AFTER the turbo and are exact where on a draw through the meter 'guesses' before passing through the turbo)

22kart22

be safe and buy a little turbo blanket. It's not worth a turbo.

07BOSSGT_S197

Why don't you live close to me so I could keep you in my back pocket!? Anyway, I want to stay strictly street for now. I have a lot to learn and get used to before I put this car on a track/strip and start competing. I have looked at the larger cooling systems and high flow pumps...even the electric water pumps....not sure how effective they are though. Anyway, of course with most mods, money is the issue. I had thought, after the fact about what I was comparing, unfortunately fingers go faster than the brain sometimes. I have the Autometer Cobalt series (boost,EGT,wideband O2) gauges. I figured those were going to let me monitor what was going on with my engine the most. As for the draw/blow question...it is being set up as a blow. I have a friend (whom is a Subaru WRX fanatic unfortunately), so he's been coaching me along.But he has stopped me from making stupid mistakes...like almost buying a twin-screw blower....there just isn't the room under the hood with my strut tower brace and I really didn't want to yank it out, find a hydraulic press and bend it out. The heat question though really sticks in my mind. I have founda water aftercooler from a beat up eclipse that a guy was selling (his wife crashed it into a dear). can that be retro fitted???

moosestang

Ahhhh, yeah. Better do some more research. I bought the whipple because I read it produced less heat than some other TS's.

Oh and if I had to choose between a twin screw or strut brace.......let's just say i wouldn't need to choose.

Tungsten

+1

jdback19

Thats why the turbo from my Hellion kit is at turbonetics getting rebuilt right now it got way to hot and me constantly beating on the car in the high texas heat didnt help either and before it blew up it was pushing 17 psi guess i will tone it down on the next one and get a snow kit.