hmm.. does the exauhst or other parts from the NA help with the FI? eventually I'll probably get FI so thinking to tide me over for ayear or 2 id like to do some mods (intake+tune = must) wont to the UD pullies... perhaps i should be asking this in a different thread though hehe.. (sort of off topic)

 

Yes LTs and midpipe will get even better gains with FI

 

I see your point and it is interesting and although not completely accurate, I'll admit it's close.

The major factor you are leaving out though that should be considered IMO is this...

The N/A scenario you showed above is IT. That's all - that's where you're at. With the FI scenario, simply adding a $45 pulley will net you more power so it's not a fair comparison of $$ to HP ratio.

And let's not even think about putting up the extra funds for a custom intake, manifold, meter, and forged rotating assembly. Now you'd have to do a $$$ to HP comparison in the 700 rwhp range which will be much more favorable to the FI scenario.


The bottom line is with FI you have options available in the future for more and with an n/a set-up you are at your ceiling instantly. Trust me, I have ben messing with cars a long time and if one thing is true - it's this...

Once you start modding and going faster - you ALWAYS want to go faster. If anyone says otherwise, they are either - A. Lying or B. never actually racing or pushing their car.

Just some other things to think about...

Peace.

 

This is an intersting topic that I have gone through on paper a bunch or times. Although I never go as far as heads or cam as I have a hard time paying more to install something than to buy it.

I actually did it today just to see if I wanted to stay N/A or go supercharged. The plus of N/A is you buy stuff slowly, S/C is all at once.

UD pulleys - $200
Deletes - $140
Mac LT with o/r prochamber 1 5/8 - $850
Intake & Tune & Tuner- $650
Alum D/S - $520
Rad Support, sway bar delete - $250
-------------------------------
$2610 for about 60 rwhp + less wieght (approx 325rwhp) = $43.50 per hp and high 12's


Brenspeed Stage 2 for $5400
-----------------------------------------------
$5400 for 130rwhp (approx 425rwhp)= $41.50 per hp and runs low 12's


But if you think about $2890 you are getting 70 more hp so that extra 70 is $41.30 more per hp that is much more expensive to get n/a.

So do you want high 12's or low 12's?

 

Geez, I ran mid 11's on the stock motor for about a year with no problems so you certainly can be faster than 'low 12's" so again, your scenario is not accurate.

I made 526 rwhp with the complete stock longblock and a vortech at 13 psi for a year so compare that $$ to rwhp. With the vortech and all other bolt-on's - I was probably out of pocket around 6K for mid 11's...

 

Howarmat-
Long tubes will not work with a turbo though

 

true, i did see him specify s/c or turbo.....so

LTs will give even more HP with a S/C over N/A setup

 

Kenne Bell says otherwise.

LT exhaust is used to improve flow to achieve better scavenging, which means a larger air/fuel charge in the cylinder. With FI, you have a forced air charge, which already improves scavenging by pushing the exhaust gasses out. Therefore to my thinking (and Kenne Bell agrees with this) there is LESS of a gain with improved exhaust flow with FI, unless the entire exhaust system cannot handle the FI systems combustion gas volume.

 

Change the MAC LT's and prochamber to only $700 because thats what they go for at good shops

 

I have understand that the more air you get into the engine, u need better flow for the exhaust.