rods and pistons and what else?
#1
rods and pistons and what else?
to safely increase psi on paxton sc kit? been watching some vids and kinda brainstorming ie;hp lol.
what kinda and where to buy? (rods/pistons)
what else should I consider? not trying put in 10k into the motor or anything but want something that can handle about 11-12 psi or maybe as high as 13-14.
as far as the tranny goes anything else other then a larger tranny fluid tank,tranny coolers?
something about the 3rd gear going bad with too much hp?
what kinda and where to buy? (rods/pistons)
what else should I consider? not trying put in 10k into the motor or anything but want something that can handle about 11-12 psi or maybe as high as 13-14.
as far as the tranny goes anything else other then a larger tranny fluid tank,tranny coolers?
something about the 3rd gear going bad with too much hp?
#2
RE: rods and pistons and what else?
Unless you are qualified to do the rotating assembly build yourself you are talking close to 10K to do a forged shortblock.
The costs are many: someone has to R & R the motor, someone has to build the motor itself so that is3000-4000 dollars in labor there, depending on who does it.Then you have all the parts: crank, pistons, rings,wrist pins, rods, ARP bolts, head gaskets, main & rod bearings, fluidsand many moresmall parts. Not to mention when you have it apart will you upgrade the heads, cams, fuel lines motor mounts? Do you want ceramic coatings on your pistons, etc?
I think unless you remove the engine yourselfand can do the motor build youself you are talking 9-10K. You can buy a pre-built shortblock from MMR or Livernois for 4500-5500 but you will have labor to install it and many small parts for the swap.
The costs are many: someone has to R & R the motor, someone has to build the motor itself so that is3000-4000 dollars in labor there, depending on who does it.Then you have all the parts: crank, pistons, rings,wrist pins, rods, ARP bolts, head gaskets, main & rod bearings, fluidsand many moresmall parts. Not to mention when you have it apart will you upgrade the heads, cams, fuel lines motor mounts? Do you want ceramic coatings on your pistons, etc?
I think unless you remove the engine yourselfand can do the motor build youself you are talking 9-10K. You can buy a pre-built shortblock from MMR or Livernois for 4500-5500 but you will have labor to install it and many small parts for the swap.
#4
RE: rods and pistons and what else?
zkiller, so you are saying that it is cheaper to just buy a shortblock than to have a forged rotating assembly installed in a stock block? I was just about to post a question almost like this. I was told that theSB route was a good choice because of the reduced down time, butI thought that it would bethe more expensive option. What are the major benefits of a SB over just cramming a forged RA in the stock block? Downtime is no concern due to mywork schedule, and I don't mind spending the extra money if I can see the returns. Ihave decided to go with the Whipple HO; the goal is a 450rwhp daily driver,but Iwant to build the bottom endjust in case I decide to go higher at a later time.
#6
RE: rods and pistons and what else?
Basically a forged assembly which main parts are rods, pistons, crankshaft and bearings.
Clutch will also be needed within time.
If you have a limited budged just keep boost low, because things might get expensive if something goes wrong
Clutch will also be needed within time.
If you have a limited budged just keep boost low, because things might get expensive if something goes wrong
#7
RE: rods and pistons and what else?
Hard part is deciding if I want the Whipple installed on the stock motor before I get home and then having the extra expense of reinstalling it later when I build the motor. I'll be home for 27 drivable days in Feb, so kinda hate to think of driving it stock the whole time.
#8
RE: rods and pistons and what else?
ORIGINAL: Gonzo71
Hard part is deciding if I want the Whipple installed on the stock motor before I get home and then having the extra expense of reinstalling it later when I build the motor. I'll be home for 27 drivable days in Feb, so kinda hate to think of driving it stock the whole time.
Hard part is deciding if I want the Whipple installed on the stock motor before I get home and then having the extra expense of reinstalling it later when I build the motor. I'll be home for 27 drivable days in Feb, so kinda hate to think of driving it stock the whole time.
#9
RE: rods and pistons and what else?
ORIGINAL: MexGT
Basically a forged assembly which main parts are rods, pistons, crankshaft and bearings.
Clutch will also be needed within time.
If you have a limited budged just keep boost low, because things might get expensive if something goes wrong
Basically a forged assembly which main parts are rods, pistons, crankshaft and bearings.
Clutch will also be needed within time.
If you have a limited budged just keep boost low, because things might get expensive if something goes wrong
Supposed to be saving as much as I can til then but have everything including all bolt ons,tranny mods and SC kit money out of the way and ready..buuuuuttt,in the meantime I thought about getting some insurance mods (lol) done immediately when I do get the GT here in april so that the meat of the project is done,by the time I get all the other parts its just bolt on..turn up the boost,tune and go..kinda like a turn key sort of deal.
I may have full access to a garage here in a month of so being that I may have a chance to start school at the local college automotive performance program (pretty sure access to the garage for students is cool,kinda like use my own car to learn on sort of deal) all I need to do is qualify for a few crap classes and I am set (gen required crap..who knows ? lol)
so that might as well cut down on installation costs lol..who can resist a struggling lean and hungry lad with GT and willingness to learn about cars and do his own work?
the instructor has to have some kind of heart!
#10
RE: rods and pistons and what else?
ORIGINAL: MexGT
Yeah IĀ“ve been thinking that also, but I guess its easier to save for the forged assembly and the SC so they could be installed at the same time. I mean, I know i will want more than 8psi anyway lol
ORIGINAL: Gonzo71
Hard part is deciding if I want the Whipple installed on the stock motor before I get home and then having the extra expense of reinstalling it later when I build the motor. I'll be home for 27 drivable days in Feb, so kinda hate to think of driving it stock the whole time.
Hard part is deciding if I want the Whipple installed on the stock motor before I get home and then having the extra expense of reinstalling it later when I build the motor. I'll be home for 27 drivable days in Feb, so kinda hate to think of driving it stock the whole time.
mmaybe just 9psi..mmmmaaaybe..10...next thing you know,ah crap..
what's the scraping noise?? [:'(]