shooter23

its not as easy as just "buying" cams for these cars like the older gens...

these cars have variable valve timing, electronic this, electronic that...its not an easy job, and not just any shop can do it...its twin SOHC, so both have to be EXACTLY the same...

and buying just any cams, like i said before, could end up with power loss down low, and minimal, to no gain up top.
I own my own shop, and i wouldnt attepmt a job like this myself. Its not just in and out, its more than that, the timing, the tuning, the adjustments.

Steeda has been trying to get it right on a car in their shop for a while now and even they are having problems with the job.

I would NOT recommend cams for your car unless you are planning a FULL engine build. There are 700hp stangs running with teh stock cams, they are more than good enough for anything you plan on throwing at your car, especially if you are just keeping it for street use.

Get the 5 bolt-ons for our cars (UDP, Intake, Exhaust, Tune and Charge Motion Plates) and then start talking about force induction.

You cna purchase the cams from anywhere, but its going to be headaches...and its not worth it

from the list of mods you have, put on the charge plates, UDP and a re-tune and you'll pull the same power!

UrS4

Stroker and better heads with the stock cams should get you well above 350whp, but you need to go to a shop that can do it right, like livernois, JDM, etc.

Haze28

FRPP has cams coming out real soon, they have pretty good performance numbers and sound awsome! I've been told that the springs don't need to be changed for these either. Here is a sound clip vid, very sexy!

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/a...1d012c387c.htm

Mustang3GT07

Sounds awsome! Do you know when there coming out or where i can pick them up at?

DarkFireGT

Brenspeed has cams that don't need spring replacement. They bill them as NSR cams. We're having those installed in March. Gains around 30HP and because no springs are required, the cams and the install will be under $1000.

Haze28

I'm sure alot of places will be selling them soon, but i've been talking to the guys at Sutton Performance about them and they are hoping to have pricing and availability answers some time this week. I can't wait.

Stang Skeleton

Though the cam set up with parts, installation, and tuning comes out to an uneconomical hp vs dollar gain, most people do it NOT just for the hp, but for the absolutely raw and muscular sound that the cams bring out of the vehicle. There are surely some decent hp gains with a proper tune as well as the sound. If you're trying to achieve the maximum hp while staying Naturally Aspirated, cams are a definite addition.

zkiller

Only $2500 to have a rough idle and lose power on the bottom end?
Where do I sign up?

shooter23

Everyone has been saying that they will have pricing and availability soon, since i started surfing these forums and year ago, and still, nothing.

And...

Would you really go to all the trouble of putting cams in and NOT changing the springs?
That is just ridiculous.

Just hang tight until all the "dealers" get their cams to the street, whenever thats gonna happen. Wait for some people to buy them and test them and then you will know, but there is nothing. Like i said, the cams in these cars from factory are VERY good. You will be able to handle well over 700 with the stock cams, so why spend the money to get a bit of gains? Use the stock ones as your starting point and build around them.

Just seems kinda ridiculous to me for change a good thing...when there is nothing better out there...

In saying that, if you go to a grind shop and get a custom grind, which some people have done, im sure you could see some results, because you will get the grind for your application.
But this is something you'd have to talk to the dealers about, because market parts have to have a middle ground to be used with N/A and boosted motors, and they need to be easily tuned and all this, the good ones will be custom, and for that, the dollar value will go up.

Build around them and get the complimentary mods, get full intake and full exhaust and then go from there.

Cams should NOT, and I repeat NOT be something that you do unless you are prepared for a full rebuild.

F1Fan

Hi Mustang3GT07,

Just about all of the above posts aresimply incorrect and have no basis in fact. The fact of the matter is that to get the most performance benifit from a set ofcams you need to maximizeyour intake side airflow, replace the valve springs and get a proper tune.To select the best cam profile you need toconsider your use, transmission type,axle ratio, tire height, weight and if you have an auto installa converter with properly selectedstall.

It looks like you have found Brenspeed and they have done extensive dyno testing with the Comp Cams and springs and found that the limiting factor for the cams they sell is that the intake track is critical to getting the most out of a 3-valve cam install. To get the 40+RWHP they found you must already have installed a CAI kit like the C&L Racer or Steeda Hi-Velocity Intake with alarge 90mm MAF housing,big throttle body, CMCV delete plates and headers.Only then you will see the 40+RWHP that the CompCams and beehives springs can give you.

I can assure you tha the folkswho only found 10RWHP did not have the intake tract breathing improvements to take advantage of the cam's improved profiles and/or had a bad install. ANY competent auto mechanic canR&R the cam phasers in about 10 minutes. There isno way to install the cams incorrectly or time them wrong if you follow theFord factory shop manual directions.

Thefolks whowent to thetrouble tohave the heads P&P's are the ones who got burned. The 3-valve heads are pretty good out of the box and the improvements theysaw even with cams only amounted to 10-12RWHP. The cost of a good set of ported heads is about$1,600-$1,800 a pair and you still need to buy the cams, beehive springs, retainers and locks which addsabout another $1,000 or so. I'mnot aprofessional mechanic but I'm a competent wrench and comfortablepullingout the cams and simply using my shop air to hold the valves up while I swap the springs, retainers and locks. I would guesstimatethe time involved doing it in my garage to be about 10-12 hours of reasonably steady working and drinkingwhile leaving the heads on the block. I don't think it takes muchlonger to simply pull the heads off andmake the spring and cam swap on the bench but there is a couple hundred dollars more in parts involved to pull the heads fora cam and spring swap.

HTH!