Fleron230

Ok then, will the stage 3 one give me more than 450RWHP? Seems like I'm gonna get that and suspension and tire upgrades. What would you guys recommend as good upgrades for the suspension and the tires? I'd want the tires to last long, but every winter, I change the tires to winter tires anyways. What tires would provide good traction yet last almost as long as the stock tires? Also, what are good suspension mods that wouldn't be too bumpy on the road (I don't race, just drive around fast), but would be enough to handle the horsepower?

Fleron230

I found these suspension upgrades and I have a couple questions (because I'm a n00b):
In:
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/suspension.html
Steeda G-Trac Brace: $70+Installation
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/images/5530.gif
Steeda Lower Control Arms :$135+Installation
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/images/tca019.gif
BMR( or Steeda? which one? )Strut tower Breace: $167 or $200+installation
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/images/5716.gif
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/images/stb009.gif
D-Spec Shocks and Struts: $539+Installation
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_200.../dspecs197.gif
Do I need a panhard bar/brace? Which one/s?
Steeda Lowering Springs: $230+Installation
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_200...es/5558215.gif
Steeda (or BMR?) Control Arms: $200 or $230+installation
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_200...es/5554422.gif
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/images/tca027.gif
Steeda (or BMR?)Adjustable 3rd link kit: $180 or $177+installation
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_200...es/5554105.gif
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_200...es/utca019.gif
Steeda Billet Lower Trailing Arms: $285+Installation
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_200...es/5554405.gif
STEEDA 3 POINT FRAME RAIL / TORQUE BOX BRACE: $240+Installation
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_200...es/5555551.gif
BMR Lower control arm relocation bracket: $135+Installation
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_200...es/utca019.gif
Do I need upper control arm mounts or a driveshaft loop?
What out of this should I get? If I need some other handling upgrades, what else should I get? And, what should I change in this list? Which ones should I get BMR on and which ones Steeda? I looked at tires but only found 1 pair and they were really expensive ($600+ per tire). What tires do you guys reccomend? What would I be able to install by myself? The sub total Price would be $2081+Installation+$6534(SC+Installation)=$8615+Su spension Installation (could it be like $1500 if I get it all installed at the same time so that it would be ~$10000?) I'd have to wait for the stock tires to burn out before I get new ones that are better. Keep in mind that I only used Brenspeed but other vendors are fine too.Would this help w/ the supercharger?: http://fasttoys.net/shop/product_inf...oducts_id=1361

mattsimonton

If it is mainly a street car there is no need to put a racing set up. I lowered mine with the steeda springs and it sticks well in warm weather. I have 450 to the wheels and 9 lbs of boost.

on another note, To have my motor rebuilt was 2K in labor. So all of that would add up to be more than that. Most shops charge around 75 an hour. Friends are the best thing to have when modding a car, they work for pizza and beet! lol

Ill find my whole mod list and post it to give you an idea on what Im running, mind you that mine hasnt seen a track

Fleron230

I see, so I'd only need to get lowering springs, right? I won't be seeing a track also. I guess I'll get the Saleen Stage 3 Supercharger and the Steeda lowering springs then.

exx1976

The fact that you have a convertible means it already has subframe connectors, so don't worry about that. The convertible chassis is quite a bit stiffer than the coupe, since we don't have a roof for additional chassis rigidity.

You don't NEED a driveshaft loop if you won't be going to the track. Should you get one? That's a personal decision, but in my eyes, additional safety equipment is never a bad thing.

To give you a better idea, here's my complete mod list (as applicable, I left out cosmetic stuff). Also, some of this stuff is not yet done, but will be by the time the car comes out of the garage in a month or two.

Saleen Series VI supercharger
Larger water pump pulley
39# injectors
3.6" supercharger pulley
Saleen Extreme 100mm inlet tube
90mm MAF
Steeda CAI
Autometer mechanical boost gauge
Koni Adjustable dampers
H&R Sport Springs
Adjustable LCAs
Adjustable UCA
Adjustable Panhard Bar
Nitto 555's - 255 up front, 285 out back


By the end of this season I'm expecting to have to replace my clutch. I also want to get a one-piece driveshaft.

A lot of the stuff you have listed is redundant. Trailing arms are the same thing as lower control arms. A 3rd link is the same thing as an upper control arm.

The Stage 3 SHOULD give you mroe than 450 wheels, I would think. Like I said, I have a Stage 2 and I'm doing ~435 corrected. SAE correction factor on my dynopull was .97, so I actually did ~448 that day (it was cold and dry). Be very careful, since 450 wheels seems to be where most people believe the stock rods begin to have a problem. If it were me, I'd get a Stage 2. Trust me, it's MORE than enough fun for the street, and if you aren't going to go to the track, you aren't going to notice a 20-30 HP change when you're already at that level. Get a Stage 2. Then save money, have the bottom end gone through, and then just get a smaller pulley and a fuel system upgrade.

Not to mention going to the track will be hard as a 'vert, since IHRA/NHRA rules say we must have a cage if we do faster than 13.49. When I finish with my suspension mods, it is my guess that if I put DR's on it and had the driver mod, the car could probably turn high 11's. But that's just my guess based on other people's mod lists and their timeslips. If I was driving it, and it had street tires, I'd still be thinking somewhere mid-12's. That's very realistic, and it's at least a second below what tech is going to be looking at for a roll cage requirement.......

zkiller

Wow instead of going cray here, why not just have the blower installed and add the suspension pieces as needed when you determine that. I have a 2006 convertible making the kind of power you are talking about and I have not even installed aftermarket control arms. I have a set of GMS control arms but have not needed to install them since I am getting consistent 1.60 sixty foot times. In other words see what you need before making haphazard choices about suspension.

You should forget about those NSR cams too. The blower kit alone can get you where you want to be. You will need a forged bottom end to go beyond what that blower kit can produce. The forged bottom end is 7000-10000 to have installed so that is not in your budget I guess.

Fleron230

Ok, I guess I'll try getting just the Stage 2 or 3 supercharger and get suspension later, as the post above mine says

exx1976

2.8?!?

Ok, look man. Either you are the dumbest n00b to EVER set foot in here, or you are a regular who is trying to yank some chains.

Either way, I'm finished talking to you, because I am NOT going to help someone blow up their car.

'nuff said.

Fleron230

I changed my post, I realized that that it would be worse than Stage 4 (in terms of what it does to the engine). So as I said, I'm just gonna get the Stage 2/3 Supercharger and get suspension later as needed. Thanks. Oh wait, would the 10% Overdrive Crank Balancer Innovators West be bad for the engine (too much HP) or is it good to install on a stage 2/3 supercharger?

exx1976

Ok.

In that case then, keep us posted, and let us know how you like the newfound power.