4 clutches, which would you chose?
#11
RE: 4 clutches, which would you chose?
Thats what I am getting and since the flywheel is accessed you might as well get a new flywheel as well.....either steel or aluminum! I think I will go steel....heard it is a great choice for FI....anyone have a fact based opinion on this please post for all to see thanks - J
ORIGINAL: brian06eleanor
thanks guys, and yes the mcleod is a twin disk and i really have heard nothing but good about it.
thanks guys, and yes the mcleod is a twin disk and i really have heard nothing but good about it.
#13
RE: 4 clutches, which would you chose?
I heard there were advantages to running the steel one for FI vs. the aluminum one.....would like to know what those advantages if any! Thanks Simon1 for the input though .... J
#14
RE: 4 clutches, which would you chose?
I am pretty happy with my spec 2. The drivability is the exact same as my stock clutch was. Also it seems to hold up fine 1k miles so far.
Not sure what transmission you have, but I wanted something for my NA motor and it wouldn't chatter. I doubt I would ever outgrow the spec 2 with my stock transmission.
Not sure what transmission you have, but I wanted something for my NA motor and it wouldn't chatter. I doubt I would ever outgrow the spec 2 with my stock transmission.
#15
RE: 4 clutches, which would you chose?
FYI - for the Spec you DO NOT NEED to replace your FW - I had on installed 3 weeks ago with the stock FW- it's very on/off but the start from a stop has improved in just 200 miles and IMHO is easy to drive. Pedal is a bit stiffer than stock and it really grabs when you engage. I've gotten used to it quickly. if your making bigger power and ur gonna track the car IMO 3+ is the way to go
#16
RE: 4 clutches, which would you chose?
ORIGINAL: Stkjock
FYI - for the Spec you DO NOT NEED to replace your FW - I had on installed 3 weeks ago with the stock FW- it's very on/off but the start from a stop has improved in just 200 miles and IMHO is easy to drive. Pedal is a bit stiffer than stock and it really grabs when you engage. I've gotten used to it quickly. if your making bigger power and ur gonna track the car IMO 3+ is the way to go
FYI - for the Spec you DO NOT NEED to replace your FW - I had on installed 3 weeks ago with the stock FW- it's very on/off but the start from a stop has improved in just 200 miles and IMHO is easy to drive. Pedal is a bit stiffer than stock and it really grabs when you engage. I've gotten used to it quickly. if your making bigger power and ur gonna track the car IMO 3+ is the way to go
Why a stage 3+? If he puts down that much power I would be worried about the transmission??
#17
RE: 4 clutches, which would you chose?
ORIGINAL: mygt500
I heard there were advantages to running the steel one for FI vs. the aluminum one.....would like to know what those advantages if any! Thanks Simon1 for the input though .... J
I heard there were advantages to running the steel one for FI vs. the aluminum one.....would like to know what those advantages if any! Thanks Simon1 for the input though .... J
The aluminum one is better for a road race car as it doesnt store as much energy and lets the car rev faster. For a street car I could really go either way.
Never really heard one was betterfor FI than another though.
I have heard from alot of people including my installer that Specs are great clutches but are much more prone to chatter and you have to break them in exactly or they will cause problems.
I need a clutch by the end of the year and wanted to keep my stock FW, but want something more progressive for the street than on/off. Needs to hold a max of 600-650hp.(Dont know if anyone is interested but my ultimate goal is to run 15psi on pump gas and run a 100-150 shot of nitrous at the track.)
Didnt really want to spend the money but is the Twin Disc what I need? And which one.
Thanks,
#18
RE: 4 clutches, which would you chose?
-How much lighter is the aftermarket flywheels
-How long do our stock clutches hold up ( driving agressively)
-If I wanted a lighter flywheel how much quicker would my car get? Quarter Mile wise?
-How long do our stock clutches hold up ( driving agressively)
-If I wanted a lighter flywheel how much quicker would my car get? Quarter Mile wise?
#19
RE: 4 clutches, which would you chose?
ORIGINAL: MustangGT0405
I am no expert but my understanding is that a steel flywheel has more inertia and is better at getting the car off the line at the drag strip.
The aluminum one is better for a road race car as it doesnt store as much energy and lets the car rev faster. For a street car I could really go either way.
Never really heard one was better for FI than another though.
I have heard from alot of people including my installer that Specs are great clutches but are much more prone to chatter and you have to break them in exactly or they will cause problems.
I need a clutch by the end of the year and wanted to keep my stock FW, but want something more progressive for the street than on/off. Needs to hold a max of 600-650hp. (Dont know if anyone is interested but my ultimate goal is to run 15psi on pump gas and run a 100-150 shot of nitrous at the track.)
Didnt really want to spend the money but is the Twin Disc what I need? And which one.
Thanks,
ORIGINAL: mygt500
I heard there were advantages to running the steel one for FI vs. the aluminum one.....would like to know what those advantages if any! Thanks Simon1 for the input though .... J
I heard there were advantages to running the steel one for FI vs. the aluminum one.....would like to know what those advantages if any! Thanks Simon1 for the input though .... J
The aluminum one is better for a road race car as it doesnt store as much energy and lets the car rev faster. For a street car I could really go either way.
Never really heard one was better for FI than another though.
I have heard from alot of people including my installer that Specs are great clutches but are much more prone to chatter and you have to break them in exactly or they will cause problems.
I need a clutch by the end of the year and wanted to keep my stock FW, but want something more progressive for the street than on/off. Needs to hold a max of 600-650hp. (Dont know if anyone is interested but my ultimate goal is to run 15psi on pump gas and run a 100-150 shot of nitrous at the track.)
Didnt really want to spend the money but is the Twin Disc what I need? And which one.
Thanks,
I don't know about 'road racing' per say, but the aluminum is better at speed cause it's back to simple reduced rotating mass physics. However, the steel is better for hard launches at the strip but the reality is you would have to be launching pretty damn hard to cause the aluminum to be an issue. I would think a lot harder than 99% of us are ever going to do.
Where the aluminum comes into play is once you are rolling. Personally, I like the spec but didn't play with a lot of different clutches before I went to a 4r70 so don't have a lot of first hand experience with those available. I do know that surpassing the 400 rwhp mark - a clutch and flywheel combo should be on your list of 'needs' IMO.
#20
RE: 4 clutches, which would you chose?
Mine came in a package from RPS rated @600 lbs of tq. Clutch, Flywheel and pressure plate. It worked flawlessly. Pedal pressure increased but not overall pressure, more like it doesn't let out towards the bottom of the pedal. The pressure is always there.
I don't know of anyone else who got an RPS clutch. But I have no complaints.
I don't know of anyone else who got an RPS clutch. But I have no complaints.