Started my clutch install.........
#22
RE: Started my clutch install.........
ORIGINAL: moosestang
I figured it out. I just hope I got them in far enough. It would suck if one flew out. I hammered them in with a good old fashion hammer, but they would only go in so far. I was expecting to feel them on the other side, but that wasn't happening.
Attention Ford: Give us a little more slack on the hydraulic line you MOTHER ****ERS!
I wasted a few hours trying to remove the pilot bearing. I tried a slide hammer. I tried the fill with bearing grease and socket trick. Someone said they had to heat up the crank shaft and cool off the bearing with canned air tuned upside down in order to remove it. Well I wasn't going through all that. The stock bearing looked perfect so I moved on.
The transmission is back in the car. I just need to bolt everything back up. I unbolted the engine crossmember like mustard suggested and it worked like a charm.
The clutch disk looks like it has a lot of material left, but it is down to the rivets. I guess the stock clutch had a lot more material when new. I'll have some more pictures up later today of the stock clutch.
I figured it out. I just hope I got them in far enough. It would suck if one flew out. I hammered them in with a good old fashion hammer, but they would only go in so far. I was expecting to feel them on the other side, but that wasn't happening.
Attention Ford: Give us a little more slack on the hydraulic line you MOTHER ****ERS!
I wasted a few hours trying to remove the pilot bearing. I tried a slide hammer. I tried the fill with bearing grease and socket trick. Someone said they had to heat up the crank shaft and cool off the bearing with canned air tuned upside down in order to remove it. Well I wasn't going through all that. The stock bearing looked perfect so I moved on.
The transmission is back in the car. I just need to bolt everything back up. I unbolted the engine crossmember like mustard suggested and it worked like a charm.
The clutch disk looks like it has a lot of material left, but it is down to the rivets. I guess the stock clutch had a lot more material when new. I'll have some more pictures up later today of the stock clutch.
ORIGINAL: hammeron
hopefully someone who knows will chime in....
from what i can tell, these are the locating dowels
and you need to put them in, using a brass or plastic hammer
hopefully someone who knows will chime in....
from what i can tell, these are the locating dowels
and you need to put them in, using a brass or plastic hammer
ORIGINAL: moosestang
Did you put those pins back in? They slide in easily in some of the holes and others i'd have to hammer them in.
Did you put those pins back in? They slide in easily in some of the holes and others i'd have to hammer them in.
#23
RE: Started my clutch install.........
ORIGINAL: jdback19
I have put two new clutches in my car. The first time I got the pilot bearing out by using a slide hammer the second time I filled the hole up with grease, stuck the pilot shaft in the hole, and gave it a smack with the hammer. After I got the grease out of my eyes I saw the pilot bearing popped out.
I have put two new clutches in my car. The first time I got the pilot bearing out by using a slide hammer the second time I filled the hole up with grease, stuck the pilot shaft in the hole, and gave it a smack with the hammer. After I got the grease out of my eyes I saw the pilot bearing popped out.
Autozone has a special adapter just for removing pilot bearings. It goes on the slide hammer, but you'll need to ask for this tool. If the guy that rented me the slide hammer was half as smart as the guy that took it back, i'd probably have gotten it out. I told him I needed smaller hooks for a pilot bearing!
If anyone goes into autozone to get a slide hammer, just look at the pictures on the counter of rental tools. There's a picture of the pilot bearing adapter. Hopefully this will help someone else.
$8.80 each for the K member mounting bolts! That's some BS. They also had a GT500, vista blue with white stripes, for $53,000.
#24
RE: Started my clutch install.........
Well those $18 bolts from ford were a waste, i'll make a seperate post about them. I ended up cutting the top of the old bolts where there wasn't any threads and it worked fine.
Anway, the clutch is working fine and i've got about 50 miles on it. I don't know if any of you remember my vibration at 3200rpms, noticeable in any gear and very noticeable with my 1 piece driveshaft. It was so noticeable that I decided to put the stock shaft back in. It was before my 4.10's were installed and before the blower, the gears didn't change anything. Well that vibration is officially gone. I put my 1 piece driveshaft back in when I did the clutch and there is no more vibration. I guess my stock clutch/pressure plate or flywheel was causing the vibration. It could have been a combination of all of them. I probably warped something when i smoked the clutch one day coming out of work.
I read the spec clutches are either on or off, no really slipping is possible. I guess that is true and it was very noticable when trying to drive up on my ramps, but on the street I didn't really get that impression.
The pedal still feels a little lighter than stock. It could be my imagination or I could still have some air in the line. Maybe that's the way it's supposed to feel, but I was expecting it to be a little harder. I've only taken it up to 4500rpms and only a little over half throttle.
Clutch chatter. I'm still not sure what clutch chatter is exactly. The only thing i've noticed is a very faint metallic rustling sound for a 1/2 a second when accelerating at low rpms in 2nd gear. No sounds in any other gears. That rustling sound may have allready been there, but most of you wouldn't even hear it with your exhaust set ups.
I'm very satified so far, except for the pedal feel. I did not use a vacuum pump on the master cylinder reservoir to bleed the clutch. I'm not sure where to get one with an adapter to fit on the master cylinder, other than ford of course. I jacked up the drivers side and slowly pumped the pedal until it got firm again. At first there will be no resistance, but after 10 or so pumps it came back. I did this with the car off and the top of the reservoir off. I'm either going to find a vacuum pump to ensure I have all the air out or i'll take it to ford and pay them to bleed it.
Anway, the clutch is working fine and i've got about 50 miles on it. I don't know if any of you remember my vibration at 3200rpms, noticeable in any gear and very noticeable with my 1 piece driveshaft. It was so noticeable that I decided to put the stock shaft back in. It was before my 4.10's were installed and before the blower, the gears didn't change anything. Well that vibration is officially gone. I put my 1 piece driveshaft back in when I did the clutch and there is no more vibration. I guess my stock clutch/pressure plate or flywheel was causing the vibration. It could have been a combination of all of them. I probably warped something when i smoked the clutch one day coming out of work.
I read the spec clutches are either on or off, no really slipping is possible. I guess that is true and it was very noticable when trying to drive up on my ramps, but on the street I didn't really get that impression.
The pedal still feels a little lighter than stock. It could be my imagination or I could still have some air in the line. Maybe that's the way it's supposed to feel, but I was expecting it to be a little harder. I've only taken it up to 4500rpms and only a little over half throttle.
Clutch chatter. I'm still not sure what clutch chatter is exactly. The only thing i've noticed is a very faint metallic rustling sound for a 1/2 a second when accelerating at low rpms in 2nd gear. No sounds in any other gears. That rustling sound may have allready been there, but most of you wouldn't even hear it with your exhaust set ups.
I'm very satified so far, except for the pedal feel. I did not use a vacuum pump on the master cylinder reservoir to bleed the clutch. I'm not sure where to get one with an adapter to fit on the master cylinder, other than ford of course. I jacked up the drivers side and slowly pumped the pedal until it got firm again. At first there will be no resistance, but after 10 or so pumps it came back. I did this with the car off and the top of the reservoir off. I'm either going to find a vacuum pump to ensure I have all the air out or i'll take it to ford and pay them to bleed it.
#25
RE: Started my clutch install.........
Just tell the dealership the clutch feels like it might have air in the systems and kind of act a little stupid when you do it, they should bleed it for free if its still under warranty, just don't tell them about the clutch install.
Nice write up and pics!
Nice write up and pics!
#27
RE: Started my clutch install.........
ORIGINAL: sactown
Just tell the dealership the clutch feels like it might have air in the systems and kind of act a little stupid when you do it, they should bleed it for free if its still under warranty, just don't tell them about the clutch install.
Nice write up and pics!
Just tell the dealership the clutch feels like it might have air in the systems and kind of act a little stupid when you do it, they should bleed it for free if its still under warranty, just don't tell them about the clutch install.
Nice write up and pics!
#28
RE: Started my clutch install.........
ORIGINAL: moosestang
Clutch chatter. I'm still not sure what clutch chatter is exactly. The only thing i've noticed is a very faint metallic rustling sound for a 1/2 a second when accelerating at low rpms in 2nd gear. No sounds in any other gears. That rustling sound may have allready been there, but most of you wouldn't even hear it with your exhaust set ups.
Clutch chatter. I'm still not sure what clutch chatter is exactly. The only thing i've noticed is a very faint metallic rustling sound for a 1/2 a second when accelerating at low rpms in 2nd gear. No sounds in any other gears. That rustling sound may have allready been there, but most of you wouldn't even hear it with your exhaust set ups.
#29
RE: Started my clutch install.........
ORIGINAL: nineinchnail1024
That is exactly what I get, only I get it in 4th gear instead of second. It's exactly like you said, so faint that I can't even here it with my window down, but I am a perfectionist with OCD, and even the tiniest noise drives me nuts. Other than that small amount of clutch chatter, I really like everything else about the clutch.
ORIGINAL: moosestang
Clutch chatter. I'm still not sure what clutch chatter is exactly. The only thing i've noticed is a very faint metallic rustling sound for a 1/2 a second when accelerating at low rpms in 2nd gear. No sounds in any other gears. That rustling sound may have allready been there, but most of you wouldn't even hear it with your exhaust set ups.
Clutch chatter. I'm still not sure what clutch chatter is exactly. The only thing i've noticed is a very faint metallic rustling sound for a 1/2 a second when accelerating at low rpms in 2nd gear. No sounds in any other gears. That rustling sound may have allready been there, but most of you wouldn't even hear it with your exhaust set ups.
#30
RE: Started my clutch install.........
Darn now I am torn between the Spec Stage 2 and the Mcloed Twin.
Lets see - $750 in parts for a Spec with Alum FW
or
$850 for the Mcloed with a resurfaced stock FW.
I am leaning toward the spec. I might do it and put an Alum DS in at the same time. I would think the car would feel really different with all that rotational weight gone.
Moose, Keep me updated on how it drives.
Thanks,
Lets see - $750 in parts for a Spec with Alum FW
or
$850 for the Mcloed with a resurfaced stock FW.
I am leaning toward the spec. I might do it and put an Alum DS in at the same time. I would think the car would feel really different with all that rotational weight gone.
Moose, Keep me updated on how it drives.
Thanks,