BlkGT07

Anti-seize around the whole shield, not on electrode, I kept the anti-seize about 1/8 inch from
electrode end of shield. I also put a little on the shoulder of the shield.
Goldenpony was correct in mentioning gapping the Champs. All mine were .045 out of the box,
so I left them at that. But check yours to make sure they are OK.
About the sockets, I used a regular deep socket 9/16 to loosen plugs all the way, then swapped
[align=left]to the 5/8 plug socket to grab the plugs out of the hole. You will need an extension to get to the plugs.
[/align] Take a minute to pull a coil off, and see how far down these plugs are!
I was very nervous doing the swap ( wondering if the whole plug was coming out! ) but I am
glad I did I it.


[align=left] [/align]

RF2.1

I don't trust the CIA, so I try to do as much of my own work as possible.

I think anyone should be able to change out their own plugs; it's not that hard. Our cars just have an unusual issue that requires a little more care in pulling the plugs. Follow the TSB, and you should be OK. If things don't go so well, there is a tool available to pull out a broken plug. I guess the thing you may want to consider most in making the determination is how many miles you have on your car. I had a little over 18K on my car when I pulled them, and had no issues at all. Others have had higher mileage and encountered difficulties.

David

Diabolical!

I didn't have any problems with my plugs, but I only had 7K miles on the car when I installed them.

As for torque specs, follow them. Especially when you're tightening steel threads (sparkplugs) into aluminum threads (our heads). The first time you strip out the threads or have a bolt back out on a head, block orbrake caliperbecause ofovertightening something, you'll become a quick believer in torque specifications.

dbspcl

Why is there any need to put anti-sieze on the new one-piece Champion 7989's? Seems like a waste of money to me.

mAnYsTyLeS

Thanks everyone - this is great info! I will be tackling this project next weekend. My car only has 6,900 miles so hopefully all goes well - thanks again!!

Diabolical!

Should be cake. That's pretty much exactly how many miles I had when I changed mine. I wasn't yet aware of the "issues" that can occur with a spark plug change, so I didn't even use anything to soak them before I broke them loose. I'm glad I didn't run into any issues.

modaddict

Absolutely, positively - YES

mjscott2

Here's some info that may help:

Anti-seize is important to avoid having the plugs seize in your block. If this happens, especially in an aluminum block, it is fairly easy to strip the threads. At this point you're screwed because you'll have to get the car to a mechanic who can retap the threads and put in a Heli-coil.

The anti-seize goes on the threads.

As for using a torque wrench, there are two reasons to use one:

1) Ensure that the fastener is not too loose. Especially under track conditions, you don't want your motor mounts rattling or have part of your suspension or brakes come loose. You also don't want your spark plugs to vibrate loose and cause a loss of compression and therefore power.

2) Ensure that you don't over-torque the fastener. A common problem with aluminum blocks is that people over-torque spark plugs and strip them. See above - you're in a world of hurt. I've also seen the lugs on the rear wheels on a Solo I car snap right off and drop the car onto the ground -they were overtorqued.

If you're confident that you can get the right torque on a given fastener, then go for it. I wrench enough that I can tell the difference between 10, 15 and 20 ft-lbs of torque. If you can't, I'd strongly suggest that you beg, borrow or steal a torque wrench for tasks where the consequences of a screw-up are severe.

Mike.

CataclysmGT

The Anti-Sieze does NOT GO ON THE THREADS. It goes on the electrode shield all the way around, and as the OP knows, not the electrode and strap. His picture is correct in his post.
When the plugs get fouled up, they are fouling in between the elctrode shield and the cyl. head. This buildup prevents the plug from being able to be pulled out of the hole. WIth the nickle anti-sieze, the buildup (if any) will "wipe off" the shield easily and not cause a problem.

ptkthekid

I don't use a torque wrench. I just tighten it down untill it strips then, back it off 1/4 of a turn