AmericanSpeed

I still say you go for the T-trim first. What's the upgrade cost? Around $1k? 4.10s, install and taller tires are going to run close to that. And eventually, when you start trapping higher, those 4.10s are going to limit you or you are going to have to run those rpms up much higher. I say make your car faster instead of quicker.

MustangGT0405

MyGT500 - I agree since he would spray after the blower it would not corode the head unit but it is still getting into the engine.

Brian - I didnt know you werent powershifting, I think that alone (if you can stay hookedup) could get you to the 10's. Combine that with 4.10's and running the car to a higher RPM and I think 10.9's will be there.

Good luck and keep us updated.

MustangGT0405

True more power always works but if he can maximize his current set up first, why not do that. Plus since he is currently running 26" tall tires he can make the switch to a 28" and raise his gearing to fine tune the car.

My plan is to run 4.10's with a 28" tall tire which should equal out to about a 3.90 overall.

Brian_Zinchuk

I can run my engine to 7000+rpms if I have to. The only reason I haven't been doing that is because the peak hp is around 6500. Once I can get better flow going through and out the pipes I should see better hp gains past 6500 rpms.

modaddict

But dude, especially on a centrifugal blower, there's a lot more than just 'peak hp'. If you are shifting low at your peak, take a look where your rpm's start right after. It is better to lose 30 hp in the upper rpm band and then be well in your peak boost range after your shift than to shift with 30 more hp but start back building boost again. You have to spin a centrifugal and keep it spun to get the most out of it. Don't concentrate so much on what your stupid dyno says the HP is at rpm. Concentrate on where your car moves to rpm wise after a shift. That is the key...

You are putting way too much stock in a dyno. A dyno is good for nothing other than getting a proper a/f reading for dialing in a tune.

The dyno doesn't matter - what matters is what gets you from A to B the quickest and no dyno is going to help you with that - you have to get to test at the track, take notes, test again, take notes, test again, take notes, test again - and then dial in your set-up.

You don't need to look for more power until you have gotten what you have to run the quickest it can - then you spend money and move up. Otherwise, you'll find you spend a bunch of money and don't go much faster.

moosestang

I wouldn't jump to a 28 inch tire so quickly. Your 60 foot times are great and if the 4.10's don't hurt your traction off the line, then a taller tire will only decrease the effectiveness of the shorter gears.

Be careful power shifting the stock trans.

I'm surprised you haven't broken your input shaft.

modaddict

I don't know - if I was him I would have been on a 28" tire a long time ago. I would also have a two step in that baby with a vortech and leave the line hard and I would have 4.30's in the car and spin shift that thing at 7K. Hell, JDM just ran 140 mph with 4.30's on a 29" tire and crossed the trap at 7300. He is babying the car IMO.

he does have good 60's now and I'll bet money looking at his timeslip he's losing his potential on the big end and I'll also bet it's because he's losing and rebuilding boost every time he shifts.

28" tire, 4.10's, leave loaded on the 2 step, and shift at 6800 to start...

The car is still very impressive as-is for the S-trim and my hats off to him for that!

BTW: if you want to just get the number - just put a 100 shot on your set-up as is and spray as soon as you shift second and you'll get the number.

07 S197

28 inch tall tire with 4.10 gears, shifting at 6600 did it for me. 10.91@128.90
https://mustangforums.com/forum/show...wpost&t=499265