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Additional items for a forged block @ 16psi

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Old 02-16-2009, 08:42 PM
  #11  
Lito
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Originally Posted by stang910
I've thought of this as I have to pass an obdII inspection. My thoughts are if a 700+rwhp shelby with a KB (super snake) can be 50 states legal then for sure a 4.6 with a whipple shouldn't have any problems. This is also the reason I chose to go with the gt500 injectors.
Absolutely on the injectors thing, I was writing my post while you wrote yours.

He will need a tuner that knows his s#it well regarding emissions.
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Old 02-17-2009, 04:11 PM
  #12  
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Here is what I am building now,{or having built for me } I already have a Whipple 2.3 gen II.HO, I am getting a custom Forged Short Block Bored and Stroked to a 5.0, Forged Kellogg Crankshaft, Manley rods, Diamond Pistons, Hell fire ring package, 60# Injectors, MAF card, Whipple Mono Blade TB, GI Joe pully kit and tentioner, Port and Polsihed Stage Three Heads, Custom ground Camshaft, APR Head Studs, FRPP Oil Pump, ARP Main studs, ARP side bolts, Dynotech Solid Driveshaft, Mcleod Twin Disc Clutch set up all with a GOOD TUNE, looking for 650+ Rear Wheel HP. I can't wait until it's all together.
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Old 02-17-2009, 09:07 PM
  #13  
BFMacias
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Wow I think I need a better job. Navy pay is okay but not this okay. Oh well we will see....
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Old 02-18-2009, 05:14 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Lito
You may be targetting the low 600srwhp.

A set of 60# injectors, your actual pumps may or not get you there, a BAP may be in order.

Better than swicthing all the pulleys, I would look into the new steeda whipple drive system. I haven't checked pricing, no idea on how it would compare to a 8 rib set and a new tensioner. But it looks pretty stout and with the separate belt is awesome.

If you can get heads and cams at once you can save your bro a lot of work in the long run.

I don't know how much you intend to spend into the car. All this things sum up, a lot.
I would think that the new steeda belt drive is better then the 8 rib setup and runs about the same price for the 2. They are working on a 16psi pulley now and sure they will have more in the future. Also having the second belt to drive the accessories and the 10 rib for the compressor and the crank! No belt slip and no breaking a belt! I am convinced as you can tell.

Originally Posted by stang910
I've got the same project going that you do. Here's my list of mods i'm doing. 298 livernois stroker, ARP hardware, GT500 47# injectors, Mcleod RST clutch, fidanza steel 8 bolt flywheel, debating on innovators west 10% overdrive w/8 rib conversion or steeda's whipple drive, 2.85" supercharger pulley, whipple 1750cfm mono blade throttle body, and custom dyno tune, not related but also installing 3.73 gears.

Your gonna need at least upgraded injectors, clutch or torque converter (stock isn't the best, but may work), 8 bolt flywheel or flexplate, pulley arrangement to get to 16psi, throttle body to take advantage of 16psi, and of course the dyno tune. If your manual you may want to look into getting a 26 spline input shaft or if auto a stronger trans. I'm doing a tr-6060 conversion when funds allow. I'd also recommend the use of ARP fasteners.
Seems 3 or 4 of us want similar setups! I want a forged and stroked block (FRPP aluminum SB and Eagle forged rotating assembly -5.0L), stock heads and cams (for now) already have the GT500 dual pumps and 60# injectors, want one piece DS, hardened input shaft, McLeod Twin Disk RST clutch, and detriot Tru trac w/4.10 gear set. 13 psi to "break in" the motor and up the boost to 16 psi and add Adam's Whipple intake and TB (black diamond 1600cfm monoblade with CAI similar to KB's (air drawn in from under drivers side headlight). Want about 600 RWHP and no belt slip!

Originally Posted by jimmymustang
Here is what I am building now,{or having built for me } I already have a Whipple 2.3 gen II.HO, I am getting a custom Forged Short Block Bored and Stroked to a 5.0, Forged Kellogg Crankshaft, Manley rods, Diamond Pistons, Hell fire ring package, 60# Injectors, MAF card, Whipple Mono Blade TB, GI Joe pully kit and tentioner, Port and Polsihed Stage Three Heads, Custom ground Camshaft, APR Head Studs, FRPP Oil Pump, ARP Main studs, ARP side bolts, Dynotech Solid Driveshaft, Mcleod Twin Disc Clutch set up all with a GOOD TUNE, looking for 650+ Rear Wheel HP. I can't wait until it's all together.
Nice looks like you have a plan and a great set up!
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Old 02-18-2009, 10:48 AM
  #15  
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The Steeda belt tentioner kit looks nice but i belive the tentioner is the same princable as the stock GT, that is it depends on a spring to hold the belt tight , where the Joe 8 rip has a tentioner that is a machinal lock. I am also looking at a booster pump to keep up with the fuel as well as a 26 spline input shaft.I am already lowered with sport springs ,4:10 gears, pro 50 shifter, 20" wheels with 315/35/zr20 in the rear , as well as the suspension work to keep the wheels to the pavement. Steeda also says that there 16# pully is months away and I will probably want to go higher.
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Old 02-18-2009, 11:21 AM
  #16  
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Higher than 16lbs ??? I don't think so !...lol...looking forward to your build as well there Jimmy !! I am right behind you for that stroker..
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Old 02-18-2009, 01:23 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BFMacias
Wow I think I need a better job. Navy pay is okay but not this okay. Oh well we will see....
where you stationed at?
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:31 PM
  #18  
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I am stationed at Subase San Diego.
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:12 AM
  #19  
whatdaproblemis0
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**** I bet stuff is expensive in san dizzle. Im up in VA Beach so its kinda nice. How long you been in? I just hit 5yrs, hope to put on 1st this time around.....

Last edited by whatdaproblemis0; 02-19-2009 at 09:14 AM. Reason: because
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:02 PM
  #20  
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Study the sh*t out of your BMRs that should help out alot. I have been in for 8 years now and put on first in 07. San Diego is a little pricey however it is absolutely beautiful down here.
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