Pulling plugs @ 15K
03-02-2009, 08:31 PM
#11
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
I would use something that evaporates quickly and doesn't leave a residue like brake cleaner or naptha. Just spray some on a fine wire brush or tooth brush and use that, it will come off easily.
I'm sure it took at least 30 ft lbs. to break mine loose.
I'm sure it took at least 30 ft lbs. to break mine loose.
03-02-2009, 09:25 PM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 2,260
here is the procedure, follow it and you shuld have no problems at your mileage
303-07B-1 Engine Ignition — 4.6L (3V) 303-07B-1
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Spark Plugs
3. NOTICE: Do not remove the spark plugs
when the engine is hot or cold soaked. Spark
Material
plug thread or cylinder head damage can
occur. Make sure the engine is warm (hand
Item Specification
touch after cooling down) prior to spark plug
High Temperature Nickel ESE-M12A4-A
removal.
Anti-Seize Lubricant
XL-2
XL-2
NOTICE: Only use hand tools when
removing or installing the spark plugs or
Motorcraft Carburetor —
Tune-Up Cleaner (aerosol)
Tune-Up Cleaner (aerosol)
damage can occur to the cylinder head or
PM-2
spark plug.
Motorcraft Carburetor —
NOTE: Use compressed air to remove any
Tune-Up Cleaner (fluid)
foreign material from the spark plug well before
PM-3
removing the spark plugs.
Silicone Brake Caliper ESE-M1C171-A Grease and Dielectric
Remove the spark plug in the following
Compound
sequence.
XG-3-A
1 Loosen the spark plug no more than
Removal
one-eighth to one-fourth of a turn.
2
NOTICE: Excessive use of carburetor
1. Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connector.
tune-up cleaner can introduce enough
liquid volume to hydro-lock the engine.
2.
NOTE: When removing the ignition coils, a Using carburetor tune-up cleaner, fill the
slight twisting motion will break the seal and spark plug well until fluid has reached the
ease removal. spark plug jamb nut. Follow the directions
Remove the bolt and the ignition coil. on the packaging.
3
ease removal. spark plug jamb nut. Follow the directions
Remove the bolt and the ignition coil. on the packaging.
3
NOTICE: Do not loosen or tighten the
spark plug for a minimum of 15 minutes
or damage to the cylinder head or spark
plug may occur.
or damage to the cylinder head or spark
plug may occur.
Let the carburetor tune-up cleaner soak for
a minimum of 15 minutes.
4
a minimum of 15 minutes.
4
NOTE: Some screeching and high effort
may be noticed and is normal.
NOTE:
The expected removal torque is
around 45 Nm (33 lb-ft).
Tighten, and then loosen the spark plug,
repeating until turning effort is reduced, and
remove the spark plug.
4. Inspect the spark plug. Install a new spark plug
as necessary. For additional information, refer
to Section 303-00.
Tighten, and then loosen the spark plug,
repeating until turning effort is reduced, and
remove the spark plug.
4. Inspect the spark plug. Install a new spark plug
as necessary. For additional information, refer
to Section 303-00.
Copyright
ã 2005, Ford Motor Company
Last updated: 8/14/2008
2006 Mustang, 9/2005
303-07B-2 Engine Ignition — 4.6L (3V) 303-07B-2
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
Installation 2. NOTICE: Only use hand tools when
removing or installing the spark plugs or
1.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)
Installation 2. NOTICE: Only use hand tools when
removing or installing the spark plugs or
1.
NOTICE: The spark plug gap is NOT damage can occur to the cylinder head or
adjustable. Damage can occur to the ceramic spark plug.
if the spark plug gap is adjusted. Install a
if the spark plug gap is adjusted. Install a
Install the spark plug.
new spark plug if the gap is out of
• To install, tighten to 34 Nm (25 lb-ft).
specification.
NOTE:
NOTE:
Refer to the specifications in this 3. NOTE: Verify that the ignition coil spring is
section for correct spark plug identification. correctly located inside the ignition coil-on-plug
NOTE:
Do not apply high temperature nickel boot and that there is no damage to the tip of
anti-seize lubricant to the spark plug ground the boot.
strap area. Install the ignition coil and the bolt.
Apply high temperature nickel anti-seize
strap area. Install the ignition coil and the bolt.
Apply high temperature nickel anti-seize
• Apply a light coat of dielectric compound to
lubricant to only the spark plug ground the inside of the ignition coil boots.
electrode shield as shown.
electrode shield as shown.
• To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
4. Connect the ignition coil electrical connector.
2006 Mustang, 9/2005Last edited by jwog666; 03-02-2009 at 09:29 PM.
03-02-2009, 11:17 PM
#14
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montaner
Posts: 6,193
Mainly because it isn't needed and is wasted money. I doubt I'll have those stock plugs back in for more than another 20 grand on the odometer. I'll be pulling them in two years for new plugs when I get a blower. I just want to make sure they make it that far and aren't a pain in the *** to remove when the time comes.
03-04-2009, 04:44 PM
#16
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montaner
Posts: 6,193
100 miles.
No seriously. The sooner the better. I'm not sure exactly when but I bet if you try and get them out with less than 10,000 on there they should come out with no problems at all. You shouldn't even need to use the aerokroil/carb cleaner.
No seriously. The sooner the better. I'm not sure exactly when but I bet if you try and get them out with less than 10,000 on there they should come out with no problems at all. You shouldn't even need to use the aerokroil/carb cleaner.
03-05-2009, 03:15 PM
#20
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Montaner
Posts: 6,193
I'm going to pull mine this weekend on Saturday if the weather isn't bad. 45 degrees and sunny hopefully. Will be doing it at Kolb02's house so it'll be outdoors in his driveway. If the weather is crap then I'll just borrow his torque wrench and do it myself the week after at my house.