Contemplating Meziere elec. waterpump, best HP bang for buck?
#1
Contemplating Meziere elec. waterpump, best HP bang for buck?
So I'm at that point where I've done the basics - JLT CAI, mail order 93 tune, underdrive pulleys, etc. Seems like from here on out, things get WAY more expensive with (sometimes) negligible power gains (cams.. consistently losing torque, mucho $$$, require long tubes which = even more $$ plus PITA install on both.)
I was thinking about going down the parasitic loss road again. Meziere claims 11WHP gains with the modular V8 pump of theirs.. however I'd have to assume that an additional 10 amp load on the alternator (combined with my Shaker 1000 and already underdriven alternator) can't be a very good idea?
At $350 (and $0 for install since I could do it at my shop on the weekend without messing with anything too wild, unlike cams/headers) this would seem like a great bang-for-buck mod.
If I did this, I'd design a little indicator panel with LEDs to show status of fan (hi/low speeds) and possibly current draw / status of elec. waterpump and relay. Might get an Interceptor gauge and set it to water temp with a warning for ANYTHING over 200 degrees.
That's another question - I'm using my SCT X3 in datalogging mode to monitor water temps with the underdrive pulleys (since it's normal to hit 100 degrees with high humidity, plus consistent stop and go traffic here in VA.) It'll stay at 192 initially then climb to 196 and stay there, no matter what I do. Is this pretty much perfect OEM thermostat performance? I'm surprised how well it works with the underdriven waterpump!
Thanks guys!
I was thinking about going down the parasitic loss road again. Meziere claims 11WHP gains with the modular V8 pump of theirs.. however I'd have to assume that an additional 10 amp load on the alternator (combined with my Shaker 1000 and already underdriven alternator) can't be a very good idea?
At $350 (and $0 for install since I could do it at my shop on the weekend without messing with anything too wild, unlike cams/headers) this would seem like a great bang-for-buck mod.
If I did this, I'd design a little indicator panel with LEDs to show status of fan (hi/low speeds) and possibly current draw / status of elec. waterpump and relay. Might get an Interceptor gauge and set it to water temp with a warning for ANYTHING over 200 degrees.
That's another question - I'm using my SCT X3 in datalogging mode to monitor water temps with the underdrive pulleys (since it's normal to hit 100 degrees with high humidity, plus consistent stop and go traffic here in VA.) It'll stay at 192 initially then climb to 196 and stay there, no matter what I do. Is this pretty much perfect OEM thermostat performance? I'm surprised how well it works with the underdriven waterpump!
Thanks guys!
#3
Yeah I guess you're right.. figure 25% UDPs automatically negate 25% of any benefit for switching to an electric water pump.
That sucks, I'm at a dead end sorta.
Well I want to get a basic bolt-on dyno run at a show in a couple weeks (portable dyno) and I've only had the car for a little while.. all my friends are going to be staring at me waiting for the numbers haha.
I'm TRYING to break 300whp - I'll just throw in some redline ATF (been putting this off for a while) clean the air filter, and load the 93 track tune.. and cross my fingers
That sucks, I'm at a dead end sorta.
Well I want to get a basic bolt-on dyno run at a show in a couple weeks (portable dyno) and I've only had the car for a little while.. all my friends are going to be staring at me waiting for the numbers haha.
I'm TRYING to break 300whp - I'll just throw in some redline ATF (been putting this off for a while) clean the air filter, and load the 93 track tune.. and cross my fingers
#7
So I'm at that point where I've done the basics - JLT CAI, mail order 93 tune, underdrive pulleys, etc. Seems like from here on out, things get WAY more expensive with (sometimes) negligible power gains (cams.. consistently losing torque, mucho $$$, require long tubes which = even more $$ plus PITA install on both.)
I was thinking about going down the parasitic loss road again. Meziere claims 11WHP gains with the modular V8 pump of theirs.. however I'd have to assume that an additional 10 amp load on the alternator (combined with my Shaker 1000 and already underdriven alternator) can't be a very good idea?
At $350 (and $0 for install since I could do it at my shop on the weekend without messing with anything too wild, unlike cams/headers) this would seem like a great bang-for-buck mod.
If I did this, I'd design a little indicator panel with LEDs to show status of fan (hi/low speeds) and possibly current draw / status of elec. waterpump and relay. Might get an Interceptor gauge and set it to water temp with a warning for ANYTHING over 200 degrees.
That's another question - I'm using my SCT X3 in datalogging mode to monitor water temps with the underdrive pulleys (since it's normal to hit 100 degrees with high humidity, plus consistent stop and go traffic here in VA.) It'll stay at 192 initially then climb to 196 and stay there, no matter what I do. Is this pretty much perfect OEM thermostat performance? I'm surprised how well it works with the underdriven waterpump!
Thanks guys!
I was thinking about going down the parasitic loss road again. Meziere claims 11WHP gains with the modular V8 pump of theirs.. however I'd have to assume that an additional 10 amp load on the alternator (combined with my Shaker 1000 and already underdriven alternator) can't be a very good idea?
At $350 (and $0 for install since I could do it at my shop on the weekend without messing with anything too wild, unlike cams/headers) this would seem like a great bang-for-buck mod.
If I did this, I'd design a little indicator panel with LEDs to show status of fan (hi/low speeds) and possibly current draw / status of elec. waterpump and relay. Might get an Interceptor gauge and set it to water temp with a warning for ANYTHING over 200 degrees.
That's another question - I'm using my SCT X3 in datalogging mode to monitor water temps with the underdrive pulleys (since it's normal to hit 100 degrees with high humidity, plus consistent stop and go traffic here in VA.) It'll stay at 192 initially then climb to 196 and stay there, no matter what I do. Is this pretty much perfect OEM thermostat performance? I'm surprised how well it works with the underdriven waterpump!
Thanks guys!
Well, I think it all depends how you define "Basics". It seems you still have a little more to go in
your signature (LOL) ....i.e. gears, delete plates, 1 piece aluminum DS, shifter, etc. Have Fun...!!!!
#8
The electric water pump is a good mod whether it gives you any h.p. gain or not. It's nice to have if you go to the track any, helping with cooling between runs. Aluminum driveshaft and gears would be a really good mod in addition to the ewp. The ewp works well with a S/C in case you decide to go their someday. It's good that your not putting headers on, it's definetly good money you could put toward a power adder.
#9
then install the electric make a run, let the pump run for some of the 5 minute turn-around, then a second run.
sounds like 10hp for the base-run differences.
how much h.p is running the water for a few minutes during the turn-around?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mungodrums
5.0L GT S550 Tech
7
10-07-2015 04:01 AM
Matt's 95 Stang
5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang
2
10-05-2015 07:16 AM
mungodrums
Suspension
0
09-07-2015 07:22 PM