Forged Rotating Assembly
Over $2000. I'd guess over $3000. Labor only.
Here's a price list from a local to me machine shop.
http://www.actionmachine.com/
Here's a price list from a local to me machine shop.
http://www.actionmachine.com/
So that seems awfully high.
Seeing as I work 11-12 hour days, I probably won't get a chance until this weekend. lol
I think I've pretty much set a goal for myself at no more than 430 at the wheels. In the end, it'll probably be a little less than that. With that in mind, is it really worth the extra time and crap loads of money to go forged? Asssuming I have a good tune, what are the chances of bending or throwing a rod at that power level?
I think I've pretty much set a goal for myself at no more than 430 at the wheels. In the end, it'll probably be a little less than that. With that in mind, is it really worth the extra time and crap loads of money to go forged? Asssuming I have a good tune, what are the chances of bending or throwing a rod at that power level?
If your going forged don't do it half ***. If you going into the block go again and do it right the first time in my opinion. Buy the blower and running lower boost and conservative tune then save for the forged internals. When you finally get the parts start saving for the install (go around to a couple speed shops first). After you get the parts installed then turn up the boost and tune.
There is always a chance something will happen to these motors once you add FI, but there are a lot of people (including myself) that are running successfully in that power range with a stock block. The key is to have a safe and well done dyno tune... but I know something could happen. When and if it does have a problem, then a new short block will be going in.
I have a 2008 Mustang GT and I'm considering the Edelbrock supercharger from Brenspeed that puts out 520 HP at the crank.
Now I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that at least one or two of you would recommend getting my rotating assembly changed out with forged if I want that kind of power.
My question is, assuming I already have the parts, how much money are we talking here in terms of labor to have this done? I'm perfectly aware that this would vary quite a bit by region and shop to shop. So just give me a general ballpark. Will it be under or over $2000?
Thanks.
Now I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that at least one or two of you would recommend getting my rotating assembly changed out with forged if I want that kind of power.
My question is, assuming I already have the parts, how much money are we talking here in terms of labor to have this done? I'm perfectly aware that this would vary quite a bit by region and shop to shop. So just give me a general ballpark. Will it be under or over $2000?
Thanks.
574.594.9559
I am running my KB for 3.5 years on the stock block. In fact, Brenspeed has tuned my car a few times.
You can stay at the stock block at the level you are seeking. You will pay 3000 in labor (or so) to remove your engine and do the machine work to the block to add a forged assembly. I'd bet it will be near 7000-8000 to have this work all done including parts.
The other option is a built shortblock (4000 or so) and sell you old block to help pay.
My car engine has held up fine at 12 PSI so far but I run 100 octane fuel to avoid detonation.
Ive known Jim Bell (owner of Kenne Bell) since 1977 and I would NOT call him PT Barnum as one of the earlier posters did. He is the real deal.
You can stay at the stock block at the level you are seeking. You will pay 3000 in labor (or so) to remove your engine and do the machine work to the block to add a forged assembly. I'd bet it will be near 7000-8000 to have this work all done including parts.
The other option is a built shortblock (4000 or so) and sell you old block to help pay.
My car engine has held up fine at 12 PSI so far but I run 100 octane fuel to avoid detonation.
Ive known Jim Bell (owner of Kenne Bell) since 1977 and I would NOT call him PT Barnum as one of the earlier posters did. He is the real deal.


