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Blew the motor - pics to come

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Old 05-13-2010, 09:10 AM
  #131  
Riptide
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Never me. If I ever do a built shortblock it will not be pushed over 500whp. I want to squeeze 100,000 miles out of my boosted motor if and when I ever build it.
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Old 05-13-2010, 09:43 AM
  #132  
forensicsteve
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That of course would be the smart way to go.....but the folks that I know that build....build for one reason only....to move up to the next race level (dragstrip only) and actually blowing up stuff, is fully expected and anticipated.

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Old 05-13-2010, 09:43 AM
  #133  
candymanjl
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Originally Posted by Tylus
I wish all of the Supercharger/Turbo manufacturers would put a Disclaimer/Warning on their products when reguarding Cold weather. The lean conditions that cold weather can produce are wicked.
it's called an IAT sensor and a proper tune, then you're good from -30 degrees to 130 degrees

yes colder weather will give you a little more boost and power it's not so much of a difference that you can overcome with a little tuning. I've tuned my last two cars myself and being a novice I still had the cars tuned perfect at all boost and weather conditions, it just takes time.

I don't think there's needs to be a warning unless they're purposely giving you a crap tune which no company would purposely do.

Last edited by candymanjl; 05-13-2010 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 05-13-2010, 10:51 AM
  #134  
hammeron
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Originally Posted by candymanjl
it's called an IAT sensor and a proper tune
right on.

the IAT is an important part of the equation and the most critical
factor in the tune is the MAF calibration.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:05 PM
  #135  
Tylus
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Originally Posted by siggyfreud
Isn't blaming the BAP kinda like blaming a throttle stick just because the pilot didn't set it high enough?
no, different principle. your fuel pump works on maintaining a certain pressure in the fuel rails.
so if the pressure is set at say 300 psi on a stock pump, and you have the BAP set for 30%...it can only output say 420 psi.

what if you have the car tuned so that it requires at least 450 psi of fuel rail pressure to have sufficient flow for the injectors?
the PCM doesn't know the fuel pressure can't support a full throttle excursion.

so when the RPM is up there, and the injectors are cycling to meet the full throttle demand, the timing is way advanced to make power, that 420 psi BAP setting isn't providing enough fuel for the injectors.
the PCM has some failsafes to keep from damaging the motor (knock sensor)...but usually you get into these areas so quickly that the PCM can't adapt in time.

same principle almost as when people over-rev their motors. sometimes the components can't handle the speed...sometimes the fueling just isn't there to support that RPM
the the blower is still pushing the same amount of air but with less fuel now...so that makes you lean. the cylinder walls and piston crown get superheated from the lean condition and then it's just a matter of waiting for the piston or the cylinder walls to fail
I'm still confused as to why his BAP was set to 30%. It should have been maxed out and left alone. I'm not ***** nilly assigning blame. He went lean and blew the motor. All fingers point directly at the BAP IMO. The cold was just a contributing factor in this case.


Originally Posted by candymanjl
it's called an IAT sensor and a proper tune, then you're good from -30 degrees to 130 degrees

yes colder weather will give you a little more boost and power it's not so much of a difference that you can overcome with a little tuning. I've tuned my last two cars myself and being a novice I still had the cars tuned perfect at all boost and weather conditions, it just takes time.

I don't think there's needs to be a warning unless they're purposely giving you a crap tune which no company would purposely do.
Originally Posted by hammeron
right on.

the IAT is an important part of the equation and the most critical
factor in the tune is the MAF calibration.
I agree with you guys 100%. and yet, people still blow their motors in the cold because of their tuning. they tune the motor for summer temps and run it at the ragged edge.

then when the cold comes along, the density change is enough to push past the safe boundries of tuning. motor goes pop. the IAT can only do so much to protect the motor
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:44 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by forensicsteve
That of course would be the smart way to go.....but the folks that I know that build....build for one reason only....to move up to the next race level (dragstrip only) and actually blowing up stuff, is fully expected and anticipated.
Those people have a LOT of disposable income.

Regarding the last statement about destruction being anticipated. Bragging rights over how fast your car is kind of lose their luster when the fact is your driving a ticking time bomb around.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:59 PM
  #137  
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Building a car to go into the 9s for the private individual (as opposed to a vendor/speed shop) is very expensive and you do have to be able to walk away from the project like it never happened. I am not sure how much I have spent....must be at least 60-70K. Car is on its 3rd build.

Not destruction but sooner or later, this or that will fail. You have to budget for modding and also for fixing/replacing.

It's not a ticking time bomb at all because if it was being driven around town (not street legal anymore), it would be driven under regular driving conditions and not stressed. At the dragstrip, it better had not be a time bomb either...lol, but the machine is stressed to the max and stuff happens. Safety 1, Fun 2, ET 3. It was at 22 lbs boost with last build and 25-27 lbs boost expected with this build.

Last edited by forensicsteve; 05-13-2010 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:44 PM
  #138  
stealth_GT
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I just want a motor that won't explode a rod out the side of my block like it did a few weeks ago with 400whp lol.



650whp sounds about right for me w/built motor, FI and tranny work...
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:09 PM
  #139  
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One word.

GT500.

Err... Or terminator. lol
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