Unlocking the power
#14
A chassis dyno measures power at the drive wheels. Power loss occurs between the flywheel and tires due to the energy lost through the drivetrain (transmission, driveline, differential).
The standard formula is to take rear wheel horsepower rwhp and divide by .85 to account for drivetrain loss, use .8 for an automatic.
For example lets say you do some baseline pulls on a dyno and measure 260rwhp. 260 divided by .85 = 305 horsepower.
I wouldn't listen to the guy at the Ford dealer anymore if I was you.
The standard formula is to take rear wheel horsepower rwhp and divide by .85 to account for drivetrain loss, use .8 for an automatic.
For example lets say you do some baseline pulls on a dyno and measure 260rwhp. 260 divided by .85 = 305 horsepower.
I wouldn't listen to the guy at the Ford dealer anymore if I was you.
Example:
Lets just say a stock '05-'09 GT has 300bhp. Using .85 (15% drivetrain loss) translates to 255whp. Actuall loss is 45hp. Seems a tad steep, but this is just an example.
Without changing anything else, lets put a turbo on it (parasitic loss of a S/C is an added variable that we won't be introducing here) and put it on a chassis dyno. Say it measures 450whp. Put back in 15% drivetrain loss and you are at 530bhp. Now you're saying the actuall drivetrain loss is 80hp. Nothing has changed, but now your drivetrain is taking nearly double the hp to turn.....I don't think it works that way unless someone has re-written the laws of physics.
This is why a baseline dyno is such a useful thing to have. I am of the opinion that saying the stock drivetrain eats up anywhere from 20-40 hp is a better way to estimate power at the crank. When you start talking about parasitic loss of superchargers or thermal efficiency of turbos, it gets a little more complicated, but it still doesn't change what your drivetrain takes to turn. I could be wrong, but until someone wants to take the time and spend the coin to do both chassis and engine dyno testing, the baseline dyno I ran tells me that the drivetrain on my car takes ~30hp to turn regardless of what kind of power I'm making at the crank.
#17
Its a manual. It was tested on a mustang Dyno SAE corrected for weather - and not all the way up to redline (let off around 5500 rpm).
Its the standard v3 brenspeed kit and tune that makes around 400whp on a dynojet.
Its the standard v3 brenspeed kit and tune that makes around 400whp on a dynojet.
#18
Yeah dude, dont worry about dyno numbers...............they dont put a huge smile on your face. Get yourself a good tune from a reputable tuner (brenspeed, bama, tillman etc...), a cai and your car will feel like a entire new vehicle.
patrick
patrick
#19
I keep threatening to look more deeply into their V3 kit, but if I go that route I'd want a few more hp to hit the tarmac. Did you install it yourself?
#20
Sorry to wander off topic in my last post kids.
To the OP, Patrick is right. That $600 spent on a Tuner/CAI combo is WELL worth it.