Jdtorque

Hi all, just joined.

I have an 06 GT, automatic.

So far I've done a few bolt ons, and suspension mods.
Bassani X-pipe with hi-flo cats,
Bassani Axle back
C&L CAI
Diablosport Predator 93 Octane tune
Steeda Front and Rear Sway Bars
Tokico Adjustable Struts
Steeda Lowering Springs
Sumitomo Tires

(Dyno'd at 283 rwhp)

I've also put on CDC Quarter Window Louvers and a Steeda Front Fascia.

That being said, I have only run it on the eight mile track near me. Couldn't crack 9's until I put on the new tires. The one run I did since then I did an 8.9 flat.

I got Steeda underdrive pullies this winter that I'm about to put on.

At some point down the road, I think I have my eye on forced induction, but the set-up I'm thinking about now is to bridge the gap until I have the several thousand for that in one shot, so here it is:

I'd like to add
BBK Throttle Body
C&L intake manifold
Either Comp cams NSR cams or FRPP Hot rod cams
Long tube headers
and obviously the Under-drive pullies

I'd also like to swap out the drive shaft, and add a Steeda cowl induction hood

I'd like to think that combo will get me somewhere around 350 at the wheels. Can anyone give me feedback on that? Does it seem high, low, just about right?

And if anyone has installed any of those pieces if you can let me know what you think, both in terms of subjective driving feel, and numbers if yo;ve got em.

Thanks. Look forward to hearing your thoughts.

contentsunderpressur

The very next thing you need to do is put a stall in it. A 3000 stall will drop your times by up to 4 tenths right off the bat. Your power will probably be a little less than 350 to the tires with the mods you listed but you'll be close enough. Call PTC and talk to them about a stall converter. They are great converters at a great price. Yank sells a good converter too but they are expensive.

contentsunderpressur

When you ran the 8.9 what was your 60 ft and trap speed?

Jdtorque

Unfortunately, I was running it at a cruise night, and they don't give out the timeslips, they just run the tree and clock for you, so I don't know.

Ok, here I am going to reveal my ignorance: Explain Stall converters to me. I'll be perfectly honest, I only started learning about cars about a year or so ago, and transmissions still make me go cross eyed.

Jdtorque

Oh, yeah I think I should have mentioned I that 3.73's were going to go on.

contentsunderpressur

Right now when you hold the break and give it gas it only revs up to probably 1600 rpms or so before the tires start to spin. A 3000 stall will allow the engine to rev up to nearly 3000 rpms when you hold the break without the tires spinning, or if you just punch the gas it will flash at 3000 rpms before it throws the power to the tires. In other words it'll be like dumping the clutch on a standard at 3000 rpms. As long as you have a good tire and the car don't spin you'll cut some 1.7 60ft times which will pick your 1/8th mile time up at least .3 tenths. That 8.9 will turn into at least a 8.6 over night. When you drive the car normally you will hardly notice the increased stall speed so no worries there.

Jdtorque

Ok, so it's keeping the engine disengaged from the drive train until it reaches 3000 rpm's? So ordinarily it would dump power to the wheels ts say, 1600, but now it holds off until it's higher into the HP curve?

Would this only apply to launching, or does it have an effect on other shift points as well?

What i've been doing at the track is taking it up to abotu 2400, 2500 rpm's and then releasing the brake. I haven't had any troubel with the tires breaking loose under those circumstances. I usually find I have to get it up higher than that to warm the tires up before the race.

contentsunderpressur

That's right. I'm surprised it's reving that high without breaking the tires loose with the stock converter. You will need a custom tune to get all the good out of a new converter but it will work good without one. It shouldn't change the shift points I wouldn't think.

speedycpu

Welcome to the board.

I too am looking for some performance modifications for a Mustang GT. I was thinking of saving up and getting all the stuff before I got the car, that way it doesn't take longer to save with the car payments in the way. I'd been looking at all the cams out there and had my eye on the FRPP Hot rod cams and the Comp cam NSR's. Check out some comp cam dyno results here:

http://www.compcams.com/3valve/dynoresults.asp

It seems like there is a noticeable power drop all the way out to 5k rpms. The SPR cams however give a huge boost and won't drop your power in the first 5k. Also you supposedly are good out to 7k rpms with the new springs and such.

The only thing I don't know is how much more labor it would be to install the springs and phaser limiter along with the cams, anyone know? From what it looks like, if anyone is going to go with cams they might as well go all out on the Comp cam XFI Stage 2 SPR's. I'd bet with the rest of your mods 350 rwhp wouldn't be difficult. 350 is my target as well. After that I'd prob just go with a 75 shot of nitrous because a blower making another 120 rwhp+ is probably not going to do nice things to the internals.

What do you guys think?

liberty911

Yes on the drive shaft since the OEM is junk. But why would you spend all that money on cams, TB and intake manifold if you are going FI in the future? As it is, once you go LTs you have wasted money on the x-pipe since you'll have to purchase the x-pipe to go with the LTs. Also plan on changing out the hod rod cams if you go FI. AS for the TB, you can pick up a used one cheap from someone who found out there are issues. Unless your doing the install yourself, with all the money you will spend "bridging the gap", you could probably be real close to FI.

Also with 3.73 have you decided on a TS SC? Different gear rations perform differently on FI cars.

Personally, I'd go with quality LTs and a DS, LCA w. relocation bracket, UCA, panhard and brace, and TC. Possibly get your gauges and cooling needs installed as well. These will transfer to the FI set up. Set your goal and work from there.

BTW, welcome to the forum. Lots of good and bad information here. Do your research.