Nothing short of a drag radial will give you traction with 4.10's and over 400rwhp. Drag radials are neither safe, nor practical to drive on every day.

 

I would seriously skip the 4.10's if you are getting a blower. I have 3.73's and if I am getting on it, I am thru 1st and second in about 2 seconds already. Can't imagine 4.10's. I will also endorse the Roush blower...lol I am biased though on that one.

 

Not to hijack, but i didn't want to waste another thread:

My Idea is the following (concept, and open to ideas)

Stage I:

CDC Shaker System (I had it on my mach and I love it... just wonder if it can be used with a CF blower.. I know a roots blower or TS will NOT work with it.
Steeda Tri-Ax - Had one in my Mach, loved it
Steeda Axle-backs (I liked their sound, I heard it on a friends, plus I like steeda parts )
*Will a K&N filter help with flow using the shaker CAI?
Tuner?

Stage II:
3.55s or 3.73s w/ rear diff rebuild
LT/Midpipe combo that is catted (stupid MD law)
Steeda Handling Pack Stage 3 http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-h...d-mustang.html
Steeda Charge Motion Plates

Stage III:
CF Blower or Turbo (still researching those) [will include all req upgrades to operate safely]
TB upgrade?

As I have cash:
Little cosmetic upgrades such as billet items etc

Endstate ~500 rwhp on a street legal, driveable car..


I am open to suggestions

 

OP and DL, copy my sig, buy the parts, install them. Run low 11's in a street car on stock internals. (Note, you may want to use a different brand of LCA relocation brackets. I had to have custom rod end bushings machined to fit my UPR LCAs into the Metco LCA relo brackets, but the Metcos absolutely don't need to be welded in.)

 

Tnkman62,

Great build list! All of these parts will build a pretty insane mustang.

I agree that 4.10s are going to be a lot for a boosted car. As soon as you build boost with those gears you will have to shift. It may not be a bad idea to get the SC under the hood & see how you like the car . However I would still get the tuner & suspension because those are a most, blower or not!

IMO I don't think you can go wrong man, no matter what order you do these phases in, you will very happy with the car!

Let me know if I can be of any assistance!

- Dan

 

Small tweaks to your list:

Phase one:
UPR short throw shifter - I have it on my car, works great!

Phase two:
UPR S197 Handling Package - I have it on my car and the grip is phenomenal.

Phase three:
Roush TVS blower - we have one on UPR's 3V GT and the car runs 9s in the quarter. In other words, you can run it on your stock 3V but it gives you the opportunity to add more power in the future if you decide to upgrade your shortblock.

 

I agree sort of.. I DD drag radials, but never in the extreme cold or in any wetness. Too dangerous. I can solidly plant 540rwhp/520rwtq with my 305/45/18 Nittos. But that's not for everyone.

They say Nittos are good in the rain, but I won't try it.

 

I have 4.10s. You guys just need to get your suspension fixed up.

 

I have 4.10s with a blower and cams too............lots of fun with an auto.

IMO, get the blower first if your can afford it. Otherwise your list looks good. You will need to adjust here and there but its a solid start. Make a long term plan and buy mods that work with future planned mods. IE buy a CAI that works with the blower you eventually plan to get. Realize every time you add something to your motor, ie cams, longtubes or a blower its gonna effect your exhaust tone. Dont buy a loud *** axleback first or you will have to change it when you add cams and or longtubes. Good luck and enjoy!!

 

I agree with these guys, get the blower first, and THEN decide what you want to compliment it. Going the other way you risk wasting money IMO. I also think the 4.10s are a bit much with a twin screw type blower. I had 3.73s on my 09 with a Vortech centrifugal blower and even that would light the tires at 40mph when the boost hit with *only* 400 rwhp.