n2mb wot
#11
It is awesome, this is the second car I have had it one and I love it. The install is easy if you are fairly accustomed to eletrical wiring. I will say this as a recommendations. Solder all connections you do and on the mustang its easier to go by pinout than color on the harness.
I read that since the msd directly plugs in it will be more efficient and wont cause and "check engine" codes to pop up. I also won't have to splice wires which is a plus for me because i've never messed around with wires (although my father could help me because he did a/c heating for a while). I also prefer to work through American Muscle and they only carry the msd 2 step. I am pretty quick at shifting. For a N/A car, is the no-lift really going to make a noticeable difference for me at the track? Or is it really just the 2 step that will help me out?
#13
I had a switch panel made for my line locks and 2 step and this diagram is based off of the wiring for that, but it should give you a good idea of how easy it is to install the 2-step. The only other connections are to your coil packs under the hood and they are plug-and-play. VERY easy.
#14
I like the no lift shift feature for the lessened stress it puts on your drive line. It has a rather adaptive automatic timing function that can learn you to some extent and get the speed close to what you need. Its not hard to mess with as it has a Graphic user interface for a laptop.
#15
I had a switch panel made for my line locks and 2 step and this diagram is based off of the wiring for that, but it should give you a good idea of how easy it is to install the 2-step. The only other connections are to your coil packs under the hood and they are plug-and-play. VERY easy.
I saw it yesterday when I was looking at other threads on this topic. You said it was made for like $60 right? I might consider getting one made up because it looks really nice!
Can't you also run the line to the clutch so it activates when the clutch is fully pressed in?
I was also considering getting a switch for my shifter.
Many options...I will probably try to hook it up to the clutch and later on get a switch for it.
#16
You can, but you would need to run an additional relay because that line is normally hot. I originally had mine run that way but changed it because I didn't like how much the RPMs would spike in the short amount of time it took for the clutch to get from the lowest position to the highest. Since I switched to using the top switch, a couple of my friends did the same and are also happier with their setup that way. My launches are much more consistent using the top clutch switch compared to when I used the bottom. A lot of people use a proximity switch, which works basically the same as I have mine set up, but I prefer the cleaner wiring of using the top clutch switch. I cannot stress enough how good this mod has been to me at the drag strip. My 60' times are extremely consistent and my reaction times are finally not a complete embarrassment.
#17
What do you mean "top clutch switch"?
I would want it so it engages immediately when I put the clutch in and disengages when the clutch is fully out...doesn't this sound like a good way to actuate the 2 step?
And what do you mean by the rpm spiking?
Are you saying that the 2 step was activating when the clutch was fully pressed in and not when you just start to push the clutch in?
Thanks
I would want it so it engages immediately when I put the clutch in and disengages when the clutch is fully out...doesn't this sound like a good way to actuate the 2 step?
And what do you mean by the rpm spiking?
Are you saying that the 2 step was activating when the clutch was fully pressed in and not when you just start to push the clutch in?
Thanks
#18
There are two different clutch position indicators. One measures when the clutch is in the fully "up" or engaged position and one measures when the clutch is in the fully "down" or disengaged position. Most people commonly refer to the "up" switch as top and the "down" switch as bottom.
Yes. If you follow my wiring diagram, that is exactly what you will get.
Exactly. Sorry if I made it sound confusing, but the result you're looking for is exactly what you'll get if you use my wiring diagram.
I would want it so it engages immediately when I put the clutch in and disengages when the clutch is fully out...doesn't this sound like a good way to actuate the 2 step?
And what do you mean by the rpm spiking?
Are you saying that the 2 step was activating when the clutch was fully pressed in and not when you just start to push the clutch in?
Thanks
Are you saying that the 2 step was activating when the clutch was fully pressed in and not when you just start to push the clutch in?
Thanks
#19
I might consider getting one made up because it looks really nice!
Last edited by Diabolical!; 02-22-2013 at 08:45 PM.
#20
There are two different clutch position indicators. One measures when the clutch is in the fully "up" or engaged position and one measures when the clutch is in the fully "down" or disengaged position. Most people commonly refer to the "up" switch as top and the "down" switch as bottom.
Yes. If you follow my wiring diagram, that is exactly what you will get.
Exactly. Sorry if I made it sound confusing, but the result you're looking for is exactly what you'll get if you use my wiring diagram.
Yes. If you follow my wiring diagram, that is exactly what you will get.
Exactly. Sorry if I made it sound confusing, but the result you're looking for is exactly what you'll get if you use my wiring diagram.
I'm sorry and thanks for the help but I am nothing special when it comes to wiring.
So if I had it actuating at the top of the clutch will it still actuate when it is also fully depressed? Meaning that it will stay on until the clutch is completely out.