here you go
With what I'm hearing, It would be cheaper to just buy a terminator. The $5k+ your gonna spend to throw a supercharger on a mach willprobably about equate to the price of an SVT Cobra with similar mileage.The only thing different would be the badging and scoop(which I think the scoop isn't functional after you go f/i). Go terminator I'dsay. Than, do a pulley swap and retune, get some drag radials, and go run 11's all day[8D].

 

lol if i could read it would help. i was about to say, if you just need an engine shoot me some $$ and i could have you a Z06/ viper/ lambo killer......and it would be streetable , and you could pull the tires at a stoplight.

but i agree just go cobra, look for one with "high" mileage and buy it, that way its the same price as a mach then you can get it stroked.

 

SteelStang05, no your help. Is a "terminator" another name for a 03/04 Cobra. Heard the term thrown around, I'm a mustang man so I had to finally put the brown bag over my head and asked the question. Also, you mentioned to Kmelfi11 about running 11s all day with the "terminator"....man, that got my brain justa runnin'. I'm aware of someone who runs consistent 12.70s with only an o/r h-pipe and a drop-in K&N filter. Do you think it's possible fora n/a Mach to runinto the 11sw/o going into the motor? Thanks a bunch. Others chime in if ya know someone who's a step ahead of us.

 

...along with the 4r70w auto in the 03' mach vs the 4r75w(supposedly a bit stronger) in the 04', though they share the same stall speed. 03 mach's have blk valve covers vs satin for the 04', the forged crank is a plus in the manual, but the limiting rpm factor on the auto is the stock converter as you can safely rev a cast crank to 6600+, but the pwrband is around 5800, so why do it anyway. 03-04 cobra is the best all around bang for the buck in todays mustangs, but the mach is a pretty fast 2nd choice and looks killer.

 

rygi23,
yep the "terminator" is the 03/04 Cobra's. This was the nickname that the SVT (Special Vehicle Team) gave to it during development as they planned to have it beat the sh*t out of all the usual suspects on the road.

As far as 11's in a n/a mach - I can't say for sure - my feeling is that you really would need to stray into f/i.

Looking forward to finding out in the near future though

 

clarehills, thank ya. Funny, my Mach was showroom stock the 1st time I ran a Cobra on the street. She was already a car and a half in front of me when we both hit it. She remained the same distance in front of me from 60mph to.....somewhere around 120. I think I downshifted to 3rd while she only downshifted to 4th. Either way, that isn't the only time my Mach found itself probably impressing a "terminator" owner. As far as 11s...I think it's possible with all bolt ons, 4.30s (maybe 4.56s)w/ slicks in the rear and skinnies in the front, and backseat and spare yanked. Now, someone with some $ do this pleeze just to satisfy Rygi23's curiosity!

 

Rygi23,

it is possible to run 11's on all motor in the mach 1, but it is going to take A LOT of time and money, to get N/A into the 12's you need ported heads, FR500 cams, full exhaust (headers, mid pipe, and catback), 4.56's, that'll get you deep into the 12's. for another .5 off your et your gonna need light weight flywheel, aluminum DS, FR500 intake w/spacer, and serious weight reduction.

 

Rygi, I think it is definitly possible to run 11's w/o going into the motor. Stock w/a good driver mod(takes a little time at the track), people run 13.1's and 13.2's. A short throw shifter I was told takes 3-5 tenths off your ET, so that will put a good driver at 12.9-12.7. Full Exhaust-(LT headers, o/r mid-pipe, and lm cat-back-best for hp) I would see that etdropping to 12.6-12.3 w/agreat driver. Throw onslicks or drag radials and learn to launch perfect with them, your ET will be down to 12.3-12.0. And the finalcouple things I would say to make sure your in the11's would be a ram air intake (JLT-hear it's best for performance), roy/other intake spacer, and a dyno tune. That should definitly do it, but if it doesn't an aluminumdriveshaft or gears will do it (don't forget you need a tuner for gears to fix your speedometer). And if you have wheelhop/traction issues, performancerear lower control arms are suggested to be put in. As you see, 11's w/o going into the engine is possible with the right combination of mods and you could probably go deep into the 11's with weight reduction, aluminum flywheel,accufab/other throttle body, and I don't knowif they sell the parts I am suggesting for our cars but they probablydo (theydid for my 05 V6) :
-Rear Drag shocks
-Front Drag Struts (could get adjustable Tocikoshocks/struts and adjust them to the best setting for weight transfer)
-Drag Launch Springs (Eibach made them for the V6 I had)
-I hear a bigger/stronger rear sway bar helps with traction if you need it
Andsome weight removal suggestions are (some are usually for track only):
-Lightweight k-member
-Front SwayBar Removal
-Rear seat delete kit
-Remove all trunk carpet/spare tire/jack
-Remove passenger seat
-Get lightweight/carbon-fiber/leatherracing seats put in
-Lightweight rims-I hear go for a good set of 4$1,000-$1,600 and probably shave a few tenths by themself (3-5 tenths)
-Other stuff you could do if it's a drag only/possibly weekend only car I've heard people do but don't suggest:
-Remove Power steering -Remove A/c
-Remove ABS-Remove air bags
-Remove all carpet and insulation
So yes, 11's are possible andprobably even 10's w/o touching the engineif you put a lot of money into it/plan right. Good Luck!

 

what getting into the lower times ends up being for a "street" car is getting the power to the ground. i dont know about 10's though, that would be bad *** im gonna have to research that! i would love to see it, thanks steelstang, there are numerous combo's that'll get you into the 11's. what Steel stang just did was one, i'll do another real quick.

Ram Air (JLT)
4.30's
Kooks LT (best brand IMHO)
Mid pipe (o/r like steel said, or possibly a highflow cat)
LM (i dont know much so Steel gets it again)
MGW short throw
Intake spacer (Roy/ PHP............go with RoyC he is on here)
31 spline axels/ pinion (Moser is good from what i hear)
drag light weld wheels (160-200)
MT slicks
FRPP aluminum DS (saves like 20lbs)
Lightweight Flywheel (saves another 15-20lbs)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ those two will also reduce the rotational mass thus freeing up HP (10-15hp)
a TB will help add more air to the mix (but im not sure which is best I'll get back to you on that one.)
this should put you in the 11.75-12.0 range if you want deeper add these next parts but they are pricey.

Fr500 cams (1200-1500)
Fr500 intake (2500)
Ported Heads (1200-1500) dont bother with the fr500 head set, our ported heads flow almost as well, and better in the lower half of the RPM range.

and finally get it tuned!!!! (600-700 w/ tuner)

this will finally put you low-mid 11's if you drive well (some weight reduction assumed)

 

You guys are nice making my Christmas list out for me! Thanks!

Both combos should have a Mach into the 11s. I would love to see what just 4.30s, slicks, uppers and lowers,aluminum driveshaft, upgraded clutch, and a MGW woulddo, withor without the tune. I'm thinking possibly a 12.0.I know just slicks on a stock car can get a12.5.