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L/T installation

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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 08:02 PM
  #11  
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rygi23
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Originally Posted by darkmach1
The first couple mods I'm thinking about are o/r H pipe, catback, intake, intake spacer, 4.10 gears and a tune. Any other good bang for the buck mods out there I should know about.
Nice lil list of budget goodies there, sums up the affordable basics. The o/r midpipe is definately an awesome bang for buck start, I would start with that first. You can pick up a used one easily for cheap. Got mine from the almighty Groundpounder for $60...very cheap mod for a good 10 hp. This might sound funny, but a set of drag radials is an awesome mod too. Pick up a full three tenths in the 1/4 with them once you get the launches and shifts down. Then do the gears, you'll need those DRs at the track to make your wheels stick. The intake mods would be the last mod before the tune. Intakes are good for a few top end horsepower, but the advantages aren't felt to the fullest without a tune. These are just my thoughts ofcourse. Everyone's got a different purpose with mods and choose different methods of madness.
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 02:58 AM
  #12  
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^ thanks, I'll try to go in that order. I used to have M/T DRs but I sold them, actually the pic of my car in my sig is with the M/Ts but I sold them, I really didn't have the space to keep them since I live in an apartment and I hate changing tires whenever I was going to the track. Most of the time I would change them then it would rain and would end up not going, till one day I got caught in some rain on the highway and lost control of the car, thats when they got sold, lol. Now I got some 18x10.5s out back with 295s, which should help somewhat.

Also another good mod I forgot to mention is the FRPP aluminum driveshaft.
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 07:58 AM
  #13  
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I personally love a good set of longtubes, and have put them on both my previous, and current mach- the sound and top end gains are amazing. They are expensive though, and the only reason I got a set on this car is because I was able to do the install myself over a weekend with the help of a friend and it was a pretty large PITA.
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 07:31 PM
  #14  
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rygi23
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Originally Posted by darkmach1
^ thanks, I'll try to go in that order. I used to have M/T DRs but I sold them, actually the pic of my car in my sig is with the M/Ts but I sold them, I really didn't have the space to keep them since I live in an apartment and I hate changing tires whenever I was going to the track. Most of the time I would change them then it would rain and would end up not going, till one day I got caught in some rain on the highway and lost control of the car, thats when they got sold, lol. Now I got some 18x10.5s out back with 295s, which should help somewhat.

Also another good mod I forgot to mention is the FRPP aluminum driveshaft.
You sold those DRs over that? Kidding, wise move. 295s stick better than my stock 245s I'm sure. Alum driveshaft another fine one as well, lose a couple lbs and a bit smooter rotation. I still say the o/r midpipe comes 1st. Just follow my Johnny Cash rule "one piece at a time".
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 08:11 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Machwon
I personally love a good set of longtubes, and have put them on both my previous, and current mach- the sound and top end gains are amazing. They are expensive though, and the only reason I got a set on this car is because I was able to do the install myself over a weekend with the help of a friend and it was a pretty large PITA.
So otherwise you wouldn't recommend having it installed by a shop? I'm getting my front shocks replaced I'm gonna ask the guy if he's ever done a header install on a mustang to see if he can get an estimate.
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 08:13 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by rygi23
You sold those DRs over that? Kidding, wise move. 295s stick better than my stock 245s I'm sure. Alum driveshaft another fine one as well, lose a couple lbs and a bit smooter rotation. I still say the o/r midpipe comes 1st. Just follow my Johnny Cash rule "one piece at a time".

Yea luckily, the back passenger tire absorbed the hit against the center division wall, but I still had to replace the wheel bearings.
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