We both had the midpipe hanging issue, sure we're not the only ones. Maybe we could contact an aftermarket company about the possibility of making some sort of an undercarriage bracket to help suspend the weight.

 

if you take pics and that kinda stuff underneath the car, i'll see if i can fabricate something for you

 

Much appreciated rebel. Remember, I put the stock one back on, along with my LM1s. It does fine w/ no hanging, so I guess all of the aftermarket makers haven't figured something out or are miscalculating something that lets thier midpipes hang a little lower. Perhaps someone will chime in though needing your help with that. thx bro.

 

im always game for a challenge!

 

Hrrmm.. I've got SLP mid's stonie and I ding mine every once in a while, but on the hole I don't have a whole lot of dinging problems.. Though if I went with something like a UPR how much fab work would that take to mate it up to the SLP LT's and LM2 I have do ya think?

Either way, at least ya have an up and running machine now. ;-)

 

The problem with mine came along because it has cats. Having cats does two things. One, the cats are that much closer to the ground. Its the way they have to bend the 2.5 inch pipe to get it to clear the tranny. By the time they fabricate it to clear the trans, and then add cats, you've lost 2-4 inches of clearence. The other problem with having a catted mid pipe is that you have that many more joints in the pipe. You now have to make sure its tight enough not only at the manifold and at the cat-back, but also before and aft each cat. SLP uses those POS band type clamps, which suck IMO. The U-Bolt style work much better, either that or a mig welder, lol. Having that many joints allows more room for weak spots, thus sagging. The 4 bolts that connect the cat to the mid also have to be very tight, like impact wrench tight, or it'll sag.
The UPR is a solid unit, which of course gives it 10 times more integrity/strength.
Sub, it's not hard to mate your LTs to a UPR if you want to go that route. I did a similair job on my GTO. I just measured out where the LTs were, cut the mid as needed, and then welded. No need to slide one end over the other if you can help it. I welded a reducer to my LT and just butted the ends together before welding. Pretty simple, but if yours isn't giving you any trouble, I would leave that **** alone.
Rebel, I'll get you some pics. It would be a straight forward fab. Just need a 1/4 piece of flat iron to go from one side of the cars frame, past either the center of the mid pipe, or preferably further back towards the cat-back, to the other side of the car. It would need some rubber bushings between the support and where it would bolt to the vehicle, in order to absorb vibration. Otherwise, it would send quite a rumble thru the car. I'll get you some pics in the morning.

 

sounds good stone,

what about just some regular old U clamps with a heat resistant powder coat? i really need the pics to help my visual learning process

 

Ahhhh.. okie dokey.. The cut and the weld wouldn't be a huge issue, and as I'm not having any problems with the clamps yet I'll probably just leave them alone.. Just a little concerned about only having 4 1/2 inches of clearance underneath the cats on the roads around my house here.. I'll shut up and stop mooching your thread.. lol :-D

 

Sub, is you H pipe a SLP? I've heard (not verified for sure) that the catted SLP pipes are modular, so you can just take the down pipes off and add LTs. I'm hoping this is the case so if I ever get around to doing LTs, I hopefully don't have to buy another mid or fab anything.

 

any pics yet? i been thinking about this for days now, and i think i've got a simple cheap solution, but i need pics lol