Rygi needs y'alls opinion
#1
Rygi needs y'alls opinion
As stated previously, ran 12s by upping psi so no bog. 12.91 w/ 1.86 60ft, dropped 2 psi and cut a 1.79 60ft but 2nd gear lock-out problem got me more than the 1st run, slowed me down to a 12.94 @ only 103. Certain 12.7x is no problem as she sits w/o the shift problem. My question is this......
What do you guys think she'll run with these mods I've recently bought?
SLP longtubes and catted X ($500, used)
97 Cobra intake cams ($150, used)
Spec stage 2+ clutch ($360, AM)
Fiore clutch cable firewall adjuster and quadrant ($100, Lethal Perf.)
Dyno tune ($300)
Goal is 12.3x, just wanna know if stretching my expectations to far. Thx for any feedback.
What do you guys think she'll run with these mods I've recently bought?
SLP longtubes and catted X ($500, used)
97 Cobra intake cams ($150, used)
Spec stage 2+ clutch ($360, AM)
Fiore clutch cable firewall adjuster and quadrant ($100, Lethal Perf.)
Dyno tune ($300)
Goal is 12.3x, just wanna know if stretching my expectations to far. Thx for any feedback.
#2
12.3 is doable imo. Your lockout has gotta be killing you, so with that fixed, you ought to drop to at least a 12.70, then the LTs ought to drop you another 2 tenths, putting you at or near a mid 12. That spec clutch isn't going to slip like the stocker, so right there you ought to be below a mid 12.
Question about those 97 cams.... where and how do they affect the powerband? Do they add low end or top end? Been hearing a lot about Mach guys swapping them in.
Question about those 97 cams.... where and how do they affect the powerband? Do they add low end or top end? Been hearing a lot about Mach guys swapping them in.
#3
As stated previously, ran 12s by upping psi so no bog. 12.91 w/ 1.86 60ft, dropped 2 psi and cut a 1.79 60ft but 2nd gear lock-out problem got me more than the 1st run, slowed me down to a 12.94 @ only 103. Certain 12.7x is no problem as she sits w/o the shift problem. My question is this......
What do you guys think she'll run with these mods I've recently bought?
SLP longtubes and catted X ($500, used)
97 Cobra intake cams ($150, used)
Spec stage 2+ clutch ($360, AM)
Fiore clutch cable firewall adjuster and quadrant ($100, Lethal Perf.)
Dyno tune ($300)
Goal is 12.3x, just wanna know if stretching my expectations to far. Thx for any feedback.
What do you guys think she'll run with these mods I've recently bought?
SLP longtubes and catted X ($500, used)
97 Cobra intake cams ($150, used)
Spec stage 2+ clutch ($360, AM)
Fiore clutch cable firewall adjuster and quadrant ($100, Lethal Perf.)
Dyno tune ($300)
Goal is 12.3x, just wanna know if stretching my expectations to far. Thx for any feedback.
FWIW im shooting for a 1.89 on street tires before i go to ET streets.
12.3 is doable imo. Your lockout has gotta be killing you, so with that fixed, you ought to drop to at least a 12.70, then the LTs ought to drop you another 2 tenths, putting you at or near a mid 12. That spec clutch isn't going to slip like the stocker, so right there you ought to be below a mid 12.
Question about those 97 cams.... where and how do they affect the powerband? Do they add low end or top end? Been hearing a lot about Mach guys swapping them in.
Question about those 97 cams.... where and how do they affect the powerband? Do they add low end or top end? Been hearing a lot about Mach guys swapping them in.
the sn cams will be in the upper power band and mid power band. and you WILL lose tq if you do not advance them 8*-10*...but that only matters around town, a 6000 rpm launch is up there, and most of the racing life is spent above 4k.
#4
The exhaust is a good choice, but it's not going to get you big gains, maybe a tenth or two. I gotta question the cams and the clutch. Is there something wrong with your stock clutch? If not, keep using it. I'd take the money from these two items and beef up the rear end, axles, and control arms. The firewall clutch adjuster and quadrant are good investments, eventhough they make zero difference in your e.t.. A good dyno tune is usually going to net you some performance gains, then it's up to you to put those gains to ground.
#5
The exhaust is a good choice, but it's not going to get you big gains, maybe a tenth or two. I gotta question the cams and the clutch. Is there something wrong with your stock clutch? If not, keep using it. I'd take the money from these two items and beef up the rear end, axles, and control arms. The firewall clutch adjuster and quadrant are good investments, eventhough they make zero difference in your e.t.. A good dyno tune is usually going to net you some performance gains, then it's up to you to put those gains to ground.
#6
12.3 is doable imo. Your lockout has gotta be killing you, so with that fixed, you ought to drop to at least a 12.70, then the LTs ought to drop you another 2 tenths, putting you at or near a mid 12. That spec clutch isn't going to slip like the stocker, so right there you ought to be below a mid 12.
Question about those 97 cams.... where and how do they affect the powerband? Do they add low end or top end? Been hearing a lot about Mach guys swapping them in.
Question about those 97 cams.... where and how do they affect the powerband? Do they add low end or top end? Been hearing a lot about Mach guys swapping them in.
#7
The exhaust is a good choice, but it's not going to get you big gains, maybe a tenth or two. I gotta question the cams and the clutch. Is there something wrong with your stock clutch? If not, keep using it. I'd take the money from these two items and beef up the rear end, axles, and control arms. The firewall clutch adjuster and quadrant are good investments, eventhough they make zero difference in your e.t.. A good dyno tune is usually going to net you some performance gains, then it's up to you to put those gains to ground.
#8
the way i am figuring it is if he gets the exhaust and a tune he's good for .3-.4 with it, and that should put him in the reach of his mid low 12 goal and once the clutch and firewall thingy is fixed he's there, and then SAVE for Fr500 cams...errr actually ford gt cams slightly cheaper and get the same basic results. then that'll knock another .2 off
#9
I'm thinking the same thing with the full exhaust, cams, tune and clutch to yield a solid four tenths. The "firewall thingy" was fixed today, lol. A HUGE improvement. With install all aftermarket cams are over $3K and the largest gain I've heard of is 35 hp. I got these cams for $150, no supporting valvetrain components needed and they can be installed in the car.
#10
Sorry guys, but I have to disagree. I think you're looking for unrealistic horsepower gains from an exhaust system and intake cams. Your goal of knocking your e.t. down by several tenths is well within the realm of the mentioned upgrades, but don't look for a 35rwhp gain from longtube headers and intake cams, ain't gonna happen, unless somebody cooks the numbers at the dyno!
People tend to forget, this isn't a corked-up 4.6L 2 valve motor here! The Mach 1/Terminator "C" heads are some of the best flowing modular heads out there, both intake and exhaust. The exhaust ports are flow port matched to the exhaust manifolds, and 2.5 inch pipe all the way to the tips!
The only real noticable restriction occurs in the cats and the mufflers, which is why a good non-catted, or high flow catted x-pipe, and flow through mufflers will usually gain you double-digit horsepower and torque increases on the dyno. Once you've done that, and then throw in longtube headers, they kind of don't make that big a difference! You might see 15-18rwhp on a stock or mild bolt-on Mach 1.
I'm assuming you intend to stay naturally aspirated, because there is no mention of any power adders here. If you truly want to go fast, the single best, cheapest, and easiest bolt-on you could do would be a 100 shot of nitrous. You would be in the high 11 second bracket as the car sits right now, with no problem, and still have perfect street manners.
People tend to forget, this isn't a corked-up 4.6L 2 valve motor here! The Mach 1/Terminator "C" heads are some of the best flowing modular heads out there, both intake and exhaust. The exhaust ports are flow port matched to the exhaust manifolds, and 2.5 inch pipe all the way to the tips!
The only real noticable restriction occurs in the cats and the mufflers, which is why a good non-catted, or high flow catted x-pipe, and flow through mufflers will usually gain you double-digit horsepower and torque increases on the dyno. Once you've done that, and then throw in longtube headers, they kind of don't make that big a difference! You might see 15-18rwhp on a stock or mild bolt-on Mach 1.
I'm assuming you intend to stay naturally aspirated, because there is no mention of any power adders here. If you truly want to go fast, the single best, cheapest, and easiest bolt-on you could do would be a 100 shot of nitrous. You would be in the high 11 second bracket as the car sits right now, with no problem, and still have perfect street manners.