rygi23

disagreeing is fun, makes for great conversation. Just my personal experience ofcourse, but I'm winding out across the line with 4.10s and basic bolt-ons. I can only imagine how much more rpm it would be with a 100 shot. My 6k would be 6.5k probably, now compound that with the much steeper 4.56. I keep watching clips of guys running 4.56s (even 4.88s) and the insane rpms, and additional engine wear resulting, doesn't seem to yield any gain in ET or mph. One nice thing about a 4.56 is there's no need to roll the clutch like I have to with the 4.10...now that's gotta be fun as hell.

Fstanggt96

Autos only rev to 5800, 5 spds go to 6850 and have a forged crank, plus the Auto's shifter looks like *** imo...

WannaBeGearHead

I have 4.10s in my auto GT and really am not impressed with them. Are 4.30s to much gear for an auto Mach 1 with a 26" tall tire? What rpm would I be at when finishing the 1/4 mile? Also, would it be too much gear with nitrous? I hear with nitrous your shift points are lowered because nitrous peaks early.

bolton3valve

yea i see what you are saying but at 7k 4.30s with a 26in tire in a auto is 126 so thats plenty of gear and 135 with a 28in tire.. to me the gains want be crazy but it def helps.. 4.10s will still yeild great ets but i think you would go faster with 4.56s... i guess save a little wear and tear on the car and go fast or wear it out and go faster btw nice times

grif62

+1 autos do not rev up to 7k. I do have to agree with you if you are talking about the stock shifters, but I do not pay that much attention to them.

Op get an auto, people underestimate them and it does very well in 1/4 mile and is also good for daily driving in my opinion.

Fstanggt96

I definitly underestimated them until I seen your 12.9 with similar modas as me lol.

grif62

Lol im not going to lie, I shocked myself when I got that time.

radaman

Well I'm in the 12.7 range/106mph in the 1/4 as my car sits...with DR's that is. In all honesty, I couldn't run with identically modded manual Machs until I put the converter in and now im even with them. I did have BBK LT's on the car and ran a 12.67/107 mph with them, but crushed them on a speed bump and took them off (getting American racing LT headers soon). You wont be able to hang with a manual mach mod for mod without a converter and thats still might not do it. I love my auto, but it takes big bucks to run similar times as identically modded manuals as they are about .2-.4 faster in the 1/4 stock. Don't forget, the higher the hrspwr, the more the auto will have an advantage in the 1/4...

crishock89

I have a 1988 gt 5.0 theses are the things I have done to it when I bought the car 2 years ago it was running fine besides the tranny the 3rd gear was grinding bad finally the tranny stop working so then I went out and bought a brand new tranny and clutch from ford racing.. When i put the clutch and tranny in the car was running like a champ again but the only problem was the floating bearing that goes between the clutch and the tranny the one that sits in the fork was always spinning. so I had to adjust the clutch well to do that I had to take apart the dash because the quad assembly has two different settings so it was on the wrong setting I had to fix that so I did that ... now the tranny and clutch was insink with each other but my dash was all apart now and wires everywhere so I slowly stared to re taped everything and connect everything back together now there was a remote starter that was installed before I got the car and by the time I put the wires and dash back together the remote starter staring to drain the battery and it wouldn’t start so I took it to a shop and they took it out and put the car back to factory check as much as they could but they where only a small place and only did remote starters mind you the car was not even staring so now they got it to start for me and it seems it holding a charge. But now which was still a problem the car every time you but it into gear and try to drive it would just stall out. so I started simple changing all the sensors throttle, map , idle, and changed the distributor, the cap , the wires and the spark plugs, them me and my friend started clean up the engine bay reconnecting wire that had old tape and just jerry rig and making them look better with better connections .. Now this car has and did have tons of wires that we can’t find anything that the connect to. We know that some of the wires are for the a/c that has been taking out but there is just tons of other connection that we can’t find... now mind you that it was like this in the begining and the car run great but like i saud i am trying to clean it up.. so here is my problem when I start the car it will start fine and idle great in neutral I can hit the gas and no miss firing at all but then when I but it into gear and drive it is fighting for power it wants go put it we just drive real slow and the rpms wont rev up and when you hit the gas it will start to stall out.. I just don’t get it and the turn signals will not work but the hazard light will yes I changed the relay plug things n both of them it was working like a year ago but when I put the dash back together stuff just stared going wrong but I am all most sure I connected everything right back the way it all was before.. I have timed it back to factory and everything I took the first spark plug out turn the cranks until the first spark plug hole had pressure aka closing the first piston and set the distributor in the right way had the spout plug out when timed it and then timed it then turn the car off and put the spout plug back in like I said I just don’t get it can some on please help me figure this out either email me afornataro89@gmail.com or call 412-310-4412 or something does anyone know of a good place I can take it that is around Pittsburgh PA thanks Chris

watman02

crishock89= your in the wrong area to be making a 5.0 post. you need to copy and paste this to the 5.0 section as they will better be able to help you.