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Anyone using M1 0w40 Euro?

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Old 02-05-2011, 11:55 AM
  #51  
Unleashedbeast
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Originally Posted by Funster_2011V6
Update: My engine build date is four days after the cut off for the fix from ford. I am on my own again.

Soooooo. Does graphite hurt your engine if put in your oil? The stuff I used before made it stop......

Its in the oil sample above, in fact.
On another thought.....

The engine is showing the very same symptoms as engines produced before the cutoff date, but because it was built 4 days after, they said no repair under the TSB? That's a bad assumption to assume it's built correctly that short after the supposed cutoff date.
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Old 02-05-2011, 02:05 PM
  #52  
ShadyNinja
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so you don't mind pouring in something to make the noise go away?

they sell 75w140 gear lube @ Walmart, It might get rid of the noise all together but its not the right product for the engine.

just drive the hell out of it if the engine fails before the factory warranty period take it in.
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Old 02-06-2011, 01:07 PM
  #53  
JAJ
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Originally Posted by Funster_2011V6
Update: My engine build date is four days after the cut off for the fix from ford. I am on my own again.

Soooooo. Does graphite hurt your engine if put in your oil? The stuff I used before made it stop......

Its in the oil sample above, in fact.
Where exactly did they find the engine build date? Is it from the computer records of the car's construction? Presumably it could a month or two before the car itself was built.

What is your vehicle production date?

As for putting in a more viscous oil (5w-30 or 5w-40), it would seem to me that if they're opening up the oil passages with a reamer to provide more flow, then a thinner oil would be better than a thicker one. Thinner oil would flow faster through the smaller openings.
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:33 PM
  #54  
Funster_2011V6
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Originally Posted by JAJ
Where exactly did they find the engine build date? Is it from the computer records of the car's construction? Presumably it could a month or two before the car itself was built.

What is your vehicle production date?

As for putting in a more viscous oil (5w-30 or 5w-40), it would seem to me that if they're opening up the oil passages with a reamer to provide more flow, then a thinner oil would be better than a thicker one. Thinner oil would flow faster through the smaller openings.
They put the car on a lift and looked at a number stamped in, presumably, the engine block.
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Old 02-08-2011, 12:13 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Funster_2011V6
They put the car on a lift and looked at a number stamped in, presumably, the engine block.
Ahhh... the engine serial number! I had a Mercedes for a while, and the engine serial number was key for getting the right repair parts because the engine had been in production for nearly ten years.

Is it possible your ticking noise is not the one that the service bulletin was supposed to fix?
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:05 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by JAJ
Ahhh... the engine serial number! I had a Mercedes for a while, and the engine serial number was key for getting the right repair parts because the engine had been in production for nearly ten years.

Is it possible your ticking noise is not the one that the service bulletin was supposed to fix?
Quite.

If there weren't so much plumbing over the valve cover I'd have already pulled it to check the valve lash. But the fuel lines go over top and I haven't the correct tool to remove them.
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