Just installed a dyno tune dry kit on my 1994 stang
I put the sprayer 6 inches right in front of the maf.only a 50 shot
when I hit the juice it fell on its face.
am i to close to the maf or should I put it behind the maf and just put my fuel pressure on like 50?
it shows picture of a guy in one of the forums putting it on the TB behind the maf but its a fox mustang should I just put it there?
Help me out guys thanks!!!

 

If you put it after the MAF you're gonna run into problems. While you can simply bump the fuel pressure to force more fuel into the cylinders... what are you going to do the other 99.99% of the time you aren't spraying? You're going to be too rich most of time, which could be a problem.

What did the instructions say? Did they say to install it that close to the MAF? When you say it "fell on its face" what exactly do you mean? How bad was it? Do you have any way to datalog your run? I'd be curious to see your A/F ratio. I'd be even more interested in seeing your MAF voltage. If I had to guess, your MAS didn't like the nitrous and it screwed up your readings. Either that or it totally screwed up your A/F ratio.

 

dont put the nozzle pointing towards the maf. It is supposed to be right before the throttle body pointing directly at the tb . Spraying the maf will screw up all the computers readings and possibly hurt the motor. Mine is a plate inbetween the upper and lower intake manifolds for a harder hit and better distribution.

 

Some dry kits are designed to be placed before the MAF, especially on some smaller kits (like the 25 - 50 HP kits you see on some blown cars.) The general theory is that the nitrous will cool the air / MAS thus causing more fuel to be added automatically. But placement is everything.

 

yes its 6-12 directly in front of the maf .I put it 8 inches right in front of the maf.
but what I was wondering if its doing that to read cold air to bump up the amount of fuel
cant I just put it behind the maf right in front of the iat?
or does the iat do nothing?or does it control the fuel

 

ohh yah by the way thanks for helping out guys!!

 

If your running a dry kit, you are correct in placing the nozzles in front of the maf.
If your nozzle is too close the maf and computor will add too much fuel which could make the car stumble like you described.
Nozzle placement is the key to get your dry kit working right.
someone with a dry system will pipe in soon enough to give you an idea on where to mount your nozzle.
The picture of the guy mounting his nitrous nozzle behind the maf and in front of the tb was running a wet kit, which does not rely on the maf and computor to add fuel.

 

It was a dry kit and he did put it behind the maf right on the tb...
i need some help with placement im going to bed im going to wake up around 3ish so if anyone has put one of these on let me know where to put the nozzle thanks.

 

its a dry kit anyone????

 

I am getting a dry kit soon. I am probably going to mount it after the MAF / before the TB, but I have the luxery of having a Tweecer RT. So I can tune the car myself and change between a Nitrous tune and a regular tune. With the nitrous tune, I simply adjust my entire MAF transfer curve to make the car run richer all the time. And then it goes back to normal when I am not going to use the bottle.

But the difference between me and you is the Tweecer. When I want to use nitrous, I literally just have to turn a **** and wait for 1 full second. I can change between tunes on the fly without having to do anything other than turn a dial. So that method works for me.

If you were to place it after the MAF, then you would have to find a way to manually add the necessary fuel. Like you said, you could bump the fuel pressure and that would make it so that when you sprayed your A/F ratio would be perfect. But what about the rest of the time? You'd be running rich, losing HP, and wasting fuel when you weren't spraying.

Of course, there are kits that control the fuel pressure based on whether or not the kit is armed and you are spraying or not, but that costs a bit more and you don't have that setup.

Your best bet it so keep it ahead of the MAF. I still recommend that you get a good measurement of the MAF voltage when spraying. Also, if you can, check the A/F ratio. It may cost a little dyno time but it's well worth it. if you know what your comptuer thinks is happening, then you can solve the problem. And you should be able to find out exactly what the issue is once you get those two things figured out (MAFV and AF ratio)