It seems the more I have been reading the archives, the more questions I have, lol... I found the thread below in an '06 thread about wet vs. dry.

I need some clarifications on a few issues:

I have read that wet is more consistant, but what exactly is my benifit? How is that going to make my 1/4 times faster / consistant (?) ?

I am not going to be investing in a plate sys for my wet n20. I think a Window switch should help the "puddling" issue wet systems are known for, correct? Will this eliminate any concerns of my tb or intake blowing up and make it "as safe" as a dry system?

I am going to read more on a window switch and a WOT switch.... I am still confused ....
1. Window switch - you shoot n20 only within a speficied rpm range (ie anything above 3K-3.5K rpm).
2. WOT - Only shoots N20 when you are at wide open throttle, so why do you need the window switch then, as a backup? It soudns like they are doing the same thing.

[edit] Ok, the million dollar question.... Stock my '04 should run what in the 1/4? mid-high 14's? So with a 75 shot? WIll that knock a second off or will I need to spray 150? What would d difference in times spraying the 75 vs. the 150 be?

tks

 

The window switch GUARANTEES that you spray above the 3000rpm range, which is what you want to do to avoid damage. The WOT switch can be opened at pretty much any rpm and cause damage. I have read that 75-100 shot will get you approximately 1 sec better in the 1/4 but I have no evidence.

 

buy all the safety parts you can to save that engine. Alot of people say theyre not necessary, and theyre really not, but it only takes one mistake to hurt the motor. With a window switch, wot switch, and fpss you dont have to worry. Get the wet kit with all supporting mods like exhaust, intake, and fuel pump. Then put in the 100hp jets and run 12's in the 1/4 mile on street tires...

 

i am one of those that says it's unnecessary, but if it gives you piece of mind... then you'll be happier about it and have more fun

and frostbitten is true, those 3 things will make it virtually foolproof.

for some of your questions.....

i disagree w/ the consistency of a wet vs dry kit. i see no diff whatsoever from other people at the track compared to me

a window switch can help w/ the puddling... but it will still puddle no matter what. i like t psray for the entire track so a window switch doesn't work for me.

i think where your conflicting w/ the window vs. WOT is this ... they work together really. for 2 diff things.

the WOT ensures you are wot, the window ensures you are in your window. ( so you can be more comfortable powershifting if you miss, and make sure rpms are up when you start)

the 3000 rule doesn't apply so much w/ good gears, i launch on 4.10's at about 3000, so as i'm holding it at 3k waiting to launch... it doesn't squirt until i wot

then i powershift anyways, cuz i just lift if i miss. the window switch would only guarantee that if i miss it won't be squirting above my limit, and it won't accidentally spray say for instance in my burnout. (but i don't activate until just b4 i stage)

as a guess 75 jets will knock off close to 1 second, 150 probably around 1.25

but thats a guess... my '90 vert knocked of 1.5 seconds on 100 jets ZEX dry kit and street tires because it was seriously lacking power for it's chubby little azz, went from 15.10 to 13.60

the more power you make/ faster your going... the more power it takes to go faster you know what i mean ???

so if you ran 13.50's as you sit... 75 jets might get you into about a 12.60-12.70 then the 150 down to a 12.20

EVERY 8 cylinder mustang should be able to lknock off mid-14's at the minimum.

if you can't, you need to drive better and/or increase your traction, every tenth of 60 foot gets you about 2 tenths of et.

my other cars went from 13.20's to 12.50 squirting a NOS 5115 jetted at 75 , and my current car 13.99 to 12.90's on NOS 5115 jetted at 80 (fixed 80 kit)