What options are "required" when installing a Zex setup? Will I need to purchasea bottle opener/heater, purge, etc along with or just get the initial kit for now?

 

You don't need to have any of those for the system to work properly.
If you are going to be racing at the track you will most likely need to have a blow down tube to vent the nitrous out of the car should the burst plate fail.
On the street of track you really want to get a bottle warmer. Keeping optimal pressure in the bottle is key to making full and consistent power. Unless your trunk is a constant 90* your system won't be performing as it should. Get one that uses a pressure switch rather than a thermostat. DynoTunes has a great warmers that are reasonably priced.

 

I knew I would need a blow down for the track but don't plan to go there (yet). Living in a hot climate like central TX I wasn't sure I would need a warmer but if you say it needs a 90degree climate I may need one anyway.

What about the purge and remote bottle opener? I thought a purge would def be required. It's not? And I know the remote opener is a luxury item, but is it a real pain to run without one?

 

When you say "consistent power and pressure" does that mean that something bad can happen to the engine if pressure is not maintained? Is this when things like "nitrous backfire" and "detonation" occur?

I want everything to be really safe and I know that has a lot to do with running a colder plug and retarding the timing a bit but don't want to leave any add-ons out for safety concerns.

Oh yeah, I only plan to runa 100 shot at most.

 

Quote:

ORIGINAL: Rubrignitz

When you say "consistent power and pressure" does that mean that something bad can happen to the engine if pressure is not maintained? Is this when things like "nitrous backfire" and "detonation" occur?

I want everything to be really safe and I know that has a lot to do with running a colder plug and retarding the timing a bit but don't want to leave any add-ons out for safety concerns.

Oh yeah, I only plan to runa 100 shot at most.

First off let me point you to the sitcky in this forum for some good info. You should also continue to research on the web as well. Here is a site that I found very informative.
A 100 shot should be fine and opening the bottle manually is a pain. I added an 'in cabin' ball valve so I could do this manually. I have a slight leak I need to find so I still close the bottle at the end of the day and open it in the morning. You can check my install out here for the maual valve and home made blow down tube.
Nitrous kits are designed/calibrated to run at a certain bottle pressure and fuel pressure to make the stated HP. Usually this is @ 850 - 950 psi bottle and the fuel jetting is set depending on carb or EFI. Since your fuel pressure is separate from the bottle pressure it won't be increasing or decreasing along with the bottle pressure. So above spec bottle pressure will make more power by leaning out the mixture and less will bottle pressure will richen the mixture and drop the power output.
Bottle pressure changes much more drastically than your fuel pressure since it is compressed into a liquid state so you will need to be monitoring and controlling it for both saftey and consistacy. Heat will raise the pressure and cold will reduce it, as will spraying as bottle volume of N20 decreasses.
A purge kit will help drop the pressure quickly by venting nitrous from the bottle and it also insures that you will have liquid nitrous at the solenoid rather than warmed up gas nitrous. Liquid nitrous is what makes the power and sometimes a little gas in the line is a plus by softening the power hit and keeping the tires from spinning. In the Texas heat you may have too much gas in the line and will want to purge it out.
.

 

Ok, I'm beginning to understand more. Bottle pressure is imperative for safety/consistency. You idleally want your bottle pressure consistentwith your fuel pressure for correct mix etc etc.

I'm thinking a bottle pressure gauge is a VERY good idea, along witha heater and maybe bottle temp gauge?

Sorry about my littleknowledgeof nitrous and the way it works but I want to be completely educated by the time I purchase the setup.

I'll check out your links provided and thanks! for the info.

 

So I assume a higher-volume fuel pump/larger injectorsare not a requirement with nitrous due to the mixtureof nitrous/fuel. Whereas a higher volume pump/injectorsare required for s/c app due to only additional fuel being added?

Or is this not a concern with only a small 75-100 shot?

 

Generally speaking on small shot system, wet or dry kit, you won't need those upgrades. But you typically would once you start going past 150hp. No magic here the same principles apply for turbo, s/c or nitrous - you need to have the proper amount of fuel available and cylinder pressure needs to be kept within safe limits for the engine design. Nitrous is just another type of forced induction.

 

Understood. I'm on the trigger for a Zex kit but have some issues with installing Nitrous w/o a complete understanding. I'll probably get the 75/100 kit/pressure gauge/warmer/purge.

That should keep me somewhat safe. Thanks for the input/info!

 

i didn't read everything, just kinda skimmed.

but, purge is not for safety at all, the higher the bottle pressure the better. the burst disc will pop if the pressure hits 3000, but you'd need a torch on it to do that. otherwise unless you were going to visit the sun, it could never get hot enuff. lower bottle pressure uses more nitrous for less power. i like to be over 900 psi , 1200 makes me happy

a bigger fuel pump is not necessary no, but a good working one is. the biggest you can have with nitrous is going lean. not enuff fuel you WILL burn a hole in something. too much fuel ?? you'll just slow down, i am assuming it' s anew car in your sig so don't sweat it at all.

get the basic kit.... sometime b4 fall grab a heater and spray away.

a 75* bottle is good, 90+ is better , BUT NEVER USE A TORCH !!!! it degrades the bottle and weakens it.. laos creates shale on the inside, and can make a selonoid hang open. thats why you typically don't a used bottle unless you know it was never heated w/ a torch

nos, and nx are the 2 best imo, edelbrock is the same thing too, pretty much a carbon copy

zex is ok, i had a zex kit but won't get another... just seemed cheaper to me than NOS parts. but yes... easier install (not by much though)

don't use platinum plugs, use good gas, don't be stupid and you can spray the car forever.

i'm on my 3rd w/ very hi mileage.. current car gets 80 dry squirted on it and it has 150k+