difference in vortech superchargers
06-20-2009, 11:57 PM
#1
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difference in vortech superchargers
so ive been researching and just cant really seem to figure out the difference between the v1, 2, 3 and so forth are. all i really got out of it is the 3 makes more power than the 2 and the 2 makes more than the 1 but cant you swap pulleys on these??? i have an 88 lx, completely stock even down to the gay speed density. i found a few v1s for right at 2k but they claim to add around 50 hp. well whop de do. i would rather just strap on a bottle for half the price and make triple that power gain. im so tired of trying to decide between nitrous, and fi. if i do go nitrous, then i need to get into all the boltons and so forth. if i do go fi, it will be a supercharger over a turbo just based on the price. i would be happy with 400ish hp, but i know i wont get that out of a bottle unless i go with direct port, or just pay out the a$$ for bolt ons. i think im starting to get gray hairs debating all of this. will somebody please school me??????
06-21-2009, 03:35 AM
#2
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well if you have SD, youll have to go maf if you want to run a sc so ad that to the price. pretty sure you can run sd with nitrous, just back the base timing at the dizzy down a couple degrees and youll be ready to spray. nitrous or sc, your only going to hit about 300-320rwhp with a completely stock motor.....unless you run a bunch of boost. with a sc youll need bigger injectors and pump. with a wet nitrous kit youll only need the pump. if budget is tight, nitrous is the clear winner but dont plan on hitting 400rwhp with either.
and the v1 and v2 are the same as far as hp goes, the v1 screams at idle while the v2 is quiet thanks to its diagonally cut gears.
and the v1 and v2 are the same as far as hp goes, the v1 screams at idle while the v2 is quiet thanks to its diagonally cut gears.
06-21-2009, 10:22 AM
#3
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V2 has a different impeller. The v1 is loud as hell. I recommend the v2, it makes a little more power, but also has a better step up ratio.
As far as FI v. N20, well n20 is better as far as speed goes... much better. However its also a REAL PITA... always having to fill the bottle, dealing with pressure, and of course the wear and tear on your motor and danger of pooling and blowing it up. Unless its just a all out drag car, go FI
As far as FI v. N20, well n20 is better as far as speed goes... much better. However its also a REAL PITA... always having to fill the bottle, dealing with pressure, and of course the wear and tear on your motor and danger of pooling and blowing it up. Unless its just a all out drag car, go FI
06-21-2009, 03:43 PM
#5
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Yes you can change out the pulley's pretty easy. You can step down to a 2.75in pulley, but belt slip would be a major issue. 2.95 is the lowest I'd use(It's what I run) and it makes decent boost. Most newer Vortech's us an 8rib design. But some of the older and base models use a 6rib design. You can upgrade to an 8rib design for slightly more boost and less belt slip. I should also mention that you can shop used for some decent kits? What year Mustang do you have? Also for $1900, I picked up 125rwhp & 120rwtq. And this is with a blown header gasket and running incredibly lean. There's another 40-50rwhp left on the table. I should also mention this is through and automatic. Yes, $2000 is a lot of money. But you will make horsepower.
Last edited by NoGo95GT; 06-21-2009 at 03:51 PM.
06-21-2009, 04:36 PM
#7
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what are some of the better boltons i will get the most bang for my buck??? the only hp i have really added to the car so far is weight reduction. lol. i got her down to 2850 right now with me in it. you gotta love free power
06-21-2009, 05:22 PM
#8
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With most bolt-ons, you will not feel any significant difference. As for cheap/free, you can buy a timing light and bump your timing to 12-14 degrees, remove your air silencer and throw in a K&N. Under-drive pulleys are cheap and can free up another 5+ hp, along with running full synthetics. An intake manifold will add another 10-20 hp along with providing your Mustang some better top-end charge(a stock 5.0 gets asthmatic past 4500rpm). Rear gears like 3.73's or 4.10's does not add horsepower, but it does give your car much better acceleration. You can shave almost a second off your ET with gears and drag radials/slicks(price w/gears and installation $500<). As for Vortechs, they all work great. It is mostly a preference on sound. Do you want to sound like a jet at idle or a sleeper? The V1 & V2's also have slightly different operating bands. Personally, going boosted was the best mod that I did. I bought mine used from the Corral. You can find some killer deals on superchargers, turbos, and N20 http://forums.corral.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=273. Here's a great example of one http://forums.corral.net/forums/show....php?t=1127660
06-21-2009, 05:37 PM
#9
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thank you very much for all your help. my last question is do you think i would need to get a tune if i take the nitrous route, or do you think i would be ok just doing the timing by hand??? i had an sct tune on my 03 but i know this 88 is much different
06-21-2009, 05:42 PM
#10
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I think it would be best to get a tune. It would be bad to grenade your motor due to faulty tuning. But if you do not want to get it professionally tuned, check out Tweecer or Quarter Horse for your own tuning. It can become quite addicting. I run Tweecer and have really enjoyed it. If you go the boosted route, I could send you some of my tunes to help you out. Good luck with whichever route you take.