School me on nitrous.
So im thinkin about doing a nitrous kit. But i dont know shyte about it.
How much can a 5.0 handle?
What are some good kits?
Would I need any supporting mods?
Where would i refill the bottle and how much does it cost?
Ups and downs?
Thanks Guys.
How much can a 5.0 handle?
What are some good kits?
Would I need any supporting mods?
Where would i refill the bottle and how much does it cost?
Ups and downs?
Thanks Guys.
those are some generic questions, you should probably read the nitrous stickies.
1) stock? not extremely sure on the 5.0's but the 4.6 is fine with a 100-125 shot as long as you've gotten it dyno tuned
2) they are all good kits for the most part. NOS, NX, ZEX, dynotune, etc... anything name brand is fine. as far as the KIT itself, depends on what you want/need (wet, dry, some come with window switches and WOT switches for your car some dont).
3) depends on your definition of supporting mods and what style you go with, wet or dry? dry kit will need atleast bigger injectors and a wet kit won't. if your talking nitrous supporting mods then you'll want all the safety switches, bottle heater, purge, etc...
4) some tracks refill nitrous, or you can google up performance shops in your area
5) ups - lots of hp and even more torque for little money.
downs - constant refilling bottles, if your into the occasional street race and you find some random car rolling down the road and your bottle isnt up to pressure (bottle heater hasnt been on and the tank isn't completely full) your SOL if you need the spray. wet kit does have the added risk of fuel puddling in the intake and backfiring.
1) stock? not extremely sure on the 5.0's but the 4.6 is fine with a 100-125 shot as long as you've gotten it dyno tuned
2) they are all good kits for the most part. NOS, NX, ZEX, dynotune, etc... anything name brand is fine. as far as the KIT itself, depends on what you want/need (wet, dry, some come with window switches and WOT switches for your car some dont).
3) depends on your definition of supporting mods and what style you go with, wet or dry? dry kit will need atleast bigger injectors and a wet kit won't. if your talking nitrous supporting mods then you'll want all the safety switches, bottle heater, purge, etc...
4) some tracks refill nitrous, or you can google up performance shops in your area
5) ups - lots of hp and even more torque for little money.
downs - constant refilling bottles, if your into the occasional street race and you find some random car rolling down the road and your bottle isnt up to pressure (bottle heater hasnt been on and the tank isn't completely full) your SOL if you need the spray. wet kit does have the added risk of fuel puddling in the intake and backfiring.
Last edited by MU71L4710N; Mar 20, 2010 at 06:52 PM.
Get a name brand kit. I have a Dynotune Nitrous Systems kit, and I like it. Get a wet kit. You will want to put in a 255lph fuel pump, and back the timing off a couple degrees. Make sure you have a new fuel filter too. If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, turn it up a couple lbs. You will also need one heat range colder spark plugs.
Start with the 75 jets, and work your way up. I would recommend a bottle heater and a window switch. A bottle heater will run you about $100, and you can get a window switch for just about $120. A window switch will allow you to set the RPM in which the nitrous system will spray. Keep it set above 3000 or so and you will be fine.
Best piece of advice is to read read read read read about nitrous. Call around, see who fills the bottles and stuff too. Do your homework before you spend your money.
Start with the 75 jets, and work your way up. I would recommend a bottle heater and a window switch. A bottle heater will run you about $100, and you can get a window switch for just about $120. A window switch will allow you to set the RPM in which the nitrous system will spray. Keep it set above 3000 or so and you will be fine.
Best piece of advice is to read read read read read about nitrous. Call around, see who fills the bottles and stuff too. Do your homework before you spend your money.
the other guys pretty much covered it other then some of the negative side effects and that is the cost. its usually $40-$60 to fill a 10# bottle and you can drain the whole thing at one day at the track depending on the size of shot and how many passes you make.
if you dont plan to use it often, then dont worry about
if you dont plan to use it often, then dont worry about
Yeah it cost me $53 to fill my bottle last time if i remember correctly... Also youll want to run a higher octane fuel 91 or 93 it helps when running nitrous.
Also there is no need to run a wet kit if your keeping it under a 125 shot. A 100 dry shot will get you about as much power as a wet shot. And like someone said already a wet shot can keep fuel in your intake and that could blow up in your face. or well under your hood. where as a dry shot cant blow up because nitrous itself is not flamable and since your not mixing it with fuel theres no risk of going boom.
nitrous is a great way to get some great power at a low cost. Its just not the best option if you want to use it on the street all the time. good for track use and good for street if you plan ahead on using it.
Also there is no need to run a wet kit if your keeping it under a 125 shot. A 100 dry shot will get you about as much power as a wet shot. And like someone said already a wet shot can keep fuel in your intake and that could blow up in your face. or well under your hood. where as a dry shot cant blow up because nitrous itself is not flamable and since your not mixing it with fuel theres no risk of going boom.
nitrous is a great way to get some great power at a low cost. Its just not the best option if you want to use it on the street all the time. good for track use and good for street if you plan ahead on using it.
well i'm not gonna comment on any of the previous posts 
but i'll give some facts rather than uneducated opinions
a stock 5.0 in GOOD WORKING order can easily hit 125-150 all day long, but chances are thats not what your looking for.
it seems that 1 second cut in ET is the magic number and most people associate that with 100 hp. but thats not the case... you can probably get it with 75-80 hp of nitrous
nitrous is about $4/lb on average across the US expect to pay $5-$6 at the track
you will NEVER empty your bottle unless your retarded, pressure will tail off to about 600 psi when you have about 2-3 lbs left so when you fill you only need 7-8 lbs, so figure roughly $30 a fill
jetted at 100 you'll get 10 full 1/4 mile passes provided you use a heater (cold bottle = low pressure = more nitrous consumption with less power noticed)
i like my bottle at 80* or more, but never use a torch, you'll kill the integrity of the bottle for one, and cause a bunch of **** to build up and flake off inside the bottle. if it passes the filter it can make the selonoid hang open and you'll see fireworks
go here for some interesting reading and tech **** http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=NOS
supporting mods... none ... but i would never spray a fox on it's original fuel pump, fuel delivery is about the biggest issue you need to deal with. stock sized is ok with a 100 shot... 190 is better but it needs to NOT be 20 years old. you just want it to be at 100% and a 20 yr old pump probably is NOT
my favorite brands are NOS, edelbrock, and NX
the wet vs dry war is too much to get into, but feel free to google and youtube the videos. find me 1 single dry kit explosion...... it doesn't happen cuz the physics don't allow it. a good dry kit delivers fuel via the injectors in the combustion chamber....not through the rough casted intake, and nitrous isnt flammable so it's all fuel delivery enhanced by the oxidizer. thats all i'm saying there
ups = serious hp gain for $500 , there are NO downs IMO
blower guys will say that in the long run blowers are cheaper, but how much is it to rebuild a head unit ????? there is a lot of personal pref there too
i like the basic NOS5115 kit with a guage (even if it's just on the bottle) and a heater.
imo window switches are a waste, progressive controller is a waste.
remote bottle opener is nice... but costly
a good basic kit will use a WOT switch (tps or micro either is good) and a fuel pressure safety switch... thats all you really need along with some common sense
do it..... you'll love it........ you'll never look back
remember , there only 2 kinds of race cars
the ones WITH nitrous... and the ones that NEED nitrous
pm me if you have any q's........ i might lag but i'll get to you sooner or later, good luck

but i'll give some facts rather than uneducated opinions

a stock 5.0 in GOOD WORKING order can easily hit 125-150 all day long, but chances are thats not what your looking for.
it seems that 1 second cut in ET is the magic number and most people associate that with 100 hp. but thats not the case... you can probably get it with 75-80 hp of nitrous
nitrous is about $4/lb on average across the US expect to pay $5-$6 at the track
you will NEVER empty your bottle unless your retarded, pressure will tail off to about 600 psi when you have about 2-3 lbs left so when you fill you only need 7-8 lbs, so figure roughly $30 a fill
jetted at 100 you'll get 10 full 1/4 mile passes provided you use a heater (cold bottle = low pressure = more nitrous consumption with less power noticed)
i like my bottle at 80* or more, but never use a torch, you'll kill the integrity of the bottle for one, and cause a bunch of **** to build up and flake off inside the bottle. if it passes the filter it can make the selonoid hang open and you'll see fireworks
go here for some interesting reading and tech **** http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=NOS
supporting mods... none ... but i would never spray a fox on it's original fuel pump, fuel delivery is about the biggest issue you need to deal with. stock sized is ok with a 100 shot... 190 is better but it needs to NOT be 20 years old. you just want it to be at 100% and a 20 yr old pump probably is NOT
my favorite brands are NOS, edelbrock, and NX
the wet vs dry war is too much to get into, but feel free to google and youtube the videos. find me 1 single dry kit explosion...... it doesn't happen cuz the physics don't allow it. a good dry kit delivers fuel via the injectors in the combustion chamber....not through the rough casted intake, and nitrous isnt flammable so it's all fuel delivery enhanced by the oxidizer. thats all i'm saying there
ups = serious hp gain for $500 , there are NO downs IMO
blower guys will say that in the long run blowers are cheaper, but how much is it to rebuild a head unit ????? there is a lot of personal pref there too
i like the basic NOS5115 kit with a guage (even if it's just on the bottle) and a heater.
imo window switches are a waste, progressive controller is a waste.
remote bottle opener is nice... but costly
a good basic kit will use a WOT switch (tps or micro either is good) and a fuel pressure safety switch... thats all you really need along with some common sense
do it..... you'll love it........ you'll never look back
remember , there only 2 kinds of race cars
the ones WITH nitrous... and the ones that NEED nitrous
pm me if you have any q's........ i might lag but i'll get to you sooner or later, good luck
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