turbo build what do u use for waist gate and bov
01-25-2012, 07:37 PM
#11
if im right the lift for trickflow stage 2 cam is 224/232 542 please tell me if i am rong but i think thats the right stat and to the heads i took a good look and compared them to a set of e7 heads there is a lip in the e7 on the inside of theon the exhaust on the heads i got there is no lip and smouth as heck and the intake side looks lil biger then the e7 but almost barly can tell and also vary smouth other then that they are the same also no i didnt git a chart sadly i used to own the the truck the engine was in but with dif heads iv never seen the heads in use the trucks short block had a .60 bore but other then that i dont i no longer own the 289 that the heads went to so yeah
just looked on trickflow.com i was close it is 224°/232° .542"
01-25-2012, 08:25 PM
#12
and know have a questen about the cam it has a 542 lift will it work with the stock pisten valve releaf also i have 1.6 rockers im workin sith stage 2 springs also i am instaling a stage 2 cam stuped questen i just dont want to instal cam and heads and have to pull them back off useing stock 302 heads heavaly ported
01-29-2012, 09:49 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: AL
Posts: 446
and know have a questen about the cam it has a 542 lift will it work with the stock pisten valve releaf also i have 1.6 rockers im workin sith stage 2 springs also i am instaling a stage 2 cam stuped questen i just dont want to instal cam and heads and have to pull them back off useing stock 302 heads heavaly ported
I'm not sure what you mean by valve relief. The valve relief is the indention in the combustion chamber that the valve seat sits in. Are you talking about valve springs? If so, don't skimp. Even if the springs are rated for that camshaft, you're pushing boost and it looks like you have plans for a lot of it. The last thing you want is valve float.
Honestly I wouldn't even buy an off the shelf cam. Most hot rodders that have been building awhile will tell you to go with a custom grind. I went that route with my current cam and it turned out to be a lot better than the edelbrock cam I had before. It was about $30 more expensive. The guy who made my cam is no longer in business (cam was made 8 years ago and the guy got too old to do it anymore and sold the business.), but I've heard great things about flowtech induction cams and will probably hit them up for my next grind. Just call them up and give them the specifics of your motor/gearing and they can make you a cam. They'll also be able to help you select the proper valve train components like seats, springs, and rocker arms.
Last edited by jojobanks; 01-29-2012 at 09:53 PM.
01-31-2012, 01:10 PM
#14
IMO an optimal turbo cam will have more duration than that. It will work for you, but I really think that cam is more geared towards street performance naturally aspirated engines.
I'm not sure what you mean by valve relief. The valve relief is the indention in the combustion chamber that the valve seat sits in. Are you talking about valve springs? If so, don't skimp. Even if the springs are rated for that camshaft, you're pushing boost and it looks like you have plans for a lot of it. The last thing you want is valve float.
Honestly I wouldn't even buy an off the shelf cam. Most hot rodders that have been building awhile will tell you to go with a custom grind. I went that route with my current cam and it turned out to be a lot better than the edelbrock cam I had before. It was about $30 more expensive. The guy who made my cam is no longer in business (cam was made 8 years ago and the guy got too old to do it anymore and sold the business.), but I've heard great things about flowtech induction cams and will probably hit them up for my next grind. Just call them up and give them the specifics of your motor/gearing and they can make you a cam. They'll also be able to help you select the proper valve train components like seats, springs, and rocker arms.
I'm not sure what you mean by valve relief. The valve relief is the indention in the combustion chamber that the valve seat sits in. Are you talking about valve springs? If so, don't skimp. Even if the springs are rated for that camshaft, you're pushing boost and it looks like you have plans for a lot of it. The last thing you want is valve float.
Honestly I wouldn't even buy an off the shelf cam. Most hot rodders that have been building awhile will tell you to go with a custom grind. I went that route with my current cam and it turned out to be a lot better than the edelbrock cam I had before. It was about $30 more expensive. The guy who made my cam is no longer in business (cam was made 8 years ago and the guy got too old to do it anymore and sold the business.), but I've heard great things about flowtech induction cams and will probably hit them up for my next grind. Just call them up and give them the specifics of your motor/gearing and they can make you a cam. They'll also be able to help you select the proper valve train components like seats, springs, and rocker arms.
01-31-2012, 09:30 PM
#15
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: AL
Posts: 446
not sure if it will fit or not. You may end up having to go with shorter ratio rocker arms. The best way I can think to check it is to use a dial indicator and compress the valve and spring to the maximum lift (possibly a hair further for safety) with the head on the engine and see if you get contact.
One thing I overlooked is with the stock 289 heads, you have a TON of problems running a good performance camshaft. One, you have press-in rocker studs. These WILL pull out with the springs you need to use with that camshaft. Also there is a pedistal that houses the valve guide that comes up the middle of the spring. Any kind of performance spring will have binding issues on this. So you'll not only have to machine for screw in studs, but you'll have to machine these humps off as well. By the time you're done paying for all that, you may as well have just bought a set of aftermarket heads.
02-11-2012, 06:29 PM
#16
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 3,451
ok my names is dustin im not changing my mind i have help with the tuneing of my mustang so im not doing it on my own have a frieand who used to work in dyno shop tuneing have the bace tune and evreything so yeah... that said
i bought a megasquirt stand alone ecu to replace my stock ecu plug and play unit i can adjust evrything from spark to fule to when to turn on cooling fans its cool stuff
i have a gareett t4 75mm turbo with a intercooler rated up to 600hp i asked questens befor and got some nagitive feeback from a troll this is not going to be a kit install yeas i know how to turn a rench vary well and so douse the guys i work with in s.a.t.
car is a 1995 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.
i built my ems kit its a megasquirt 2 and added added a mapdaddy 4bar map for up to 44psi of boost for when it goas under boost the fule map will adjust underboost mine also plugs up to stock wireing harnes cause i got it as a kit this is so you understand i know about this system some this is the computer im useing with my mustang
thats only thing i have installed at this time
i was wondering what is a good waistgate to use with a t4 75mm turbo
i was gona use a hks bov but what have yall had good exp with
i was gona use 60lb injecktors but but are they too big also a walbro 255lph fule pump
msd dizzy with ign box and coil and zex spark plugs 750hp rateing 8.5 wires
i am instaling main suport girdle with arp bolts for block and after turbo install il have to save up again for balansed 347 stroker kit stock bore
i was gona do a turbo header kit but desided to make own i have a freiand who will cut me some deals bending pipes and il weld evreything up my self
this is my first turbo build last car was a heads cam lt1 pace seter long tubes trule dual with dynomax bullets sold to frieand got mustang and its slow to me but wont be too long
i bought a megasquirt stand alone ecu to replace my stock ecu plug and play unit i can adjust evrything from spark to fule to when to turn on cooling fans its cool stuff
i have a gareett t4 75mm turbo with a intercooler rated up to 600hp i asked questens befor and got some nagitive feeback from a troll this is not going to be a kit install yeas i know how to turn a rench vary well and so douse the guys i work with in s.a.t.
car is a 1995 ford mustang gt 5.0 h.o.
i built my ems kit its a megasquirt 2 and added added a mapdaddy 4bar map for up to 44psi of boost for when it goas under boost the fule map will adjust underboost mine also plugs up to stock wireing harnes cause i got it as a kit this is so you understand i know about this system some this is the computer im useing with my mustang
thats only thing i have installed at this time
i was wondering what is a good waistgate to use with a t4 75mm turbo
i was gona use a hks bov but what have yall had good exp with
i was gona use 60lb injecktors but but are they too big also a walbro 255lph fule pump
msd dizzy with ign box and coil and zex spark plugs 750hp rateing 8.5 wires
i am instaling main suport girdle with arp bolts for block and after turbo install il have to save up again for balansed 347 stroker kit stock bore
i was gona do a turbo header kit but desided to make own i have a freiand who will cut me some deals bending pipes and il weld evreything up my self
this is my first turbo build last car was a heads cam lt1 pace seter long tubes trule dual with dynomax bullets sold to frieand got mustang and its slow to me but wont be too long
Wastegate & BOV brand are up to you. Almost all of them are good. I've even had great luck with some chinese ones & am currently running two 44mm ones on my ranger with a cheap 1g dsm bov.
That lift will be fine with stock valvetrain, but I would advise upgrading. I've run a .542 lift with completely stock e7s springs, & rockers. It lasted 30,000 miles, but I wouldn't advise it. I currently have conical springs with an x303, gt40p heads, stock pistons, & 1.6's I still had a little ways before the valve hit the piston (assuming no float). As the others have said, go with a custom cam if you can shell out the money (Especially with running stock head casting; ported or not, those things are junk)
For the fuel pump, I always advise running two 255's in parallel & Y'ing them together to have a reliable, cheap, & quiet setup.
Also, get a different o2. Yet again, one horrible downside to having a plug&play standalone. If it's not already bought & installed; I doubt you'll need the 4 bar map for this application unless you intend on running race fuel. The map that comes with it will likely exceed the limits of that engine.
If you're building the headers & want them to be good, buy some mandrel bent piping & use those instead of bending them yourself. It will reduce the inside diameter unless you have a mandrel. It only costs around $50-90 for enough good quality mild steel U's to do a v8. If you're really trying to cut cost you can just angle cut & weld straight pipe. I did that with some fence post on one tt5.0, but he wanted it to be as cheap as possible & I wanted to see how low I could get the cost.
02-12-2012, 05:44 PM
#17
First off I would advise wiring the MSII to the car if you or your friend can do it; one because of the poor power & ground, two to cut out the clutter. The 5.0's I've done have all been cut down to around 19-24 wires vs the near 60 stock. Since you're running the msII, there is no issue with running 60 lb injectors even in a batch fire setup (which I doubt it's built for if you got a plug & play unit). The idle will be perfectly smooth even at very low rpm. This will also save you from having to buy injectors again later if you decide you want more power. IF you or your friend feel comfortable with that, I would change over to a wasted spark or edis ignition to allow more dwell time for a stronger spark and more accurate spark control. (I personally prefer using some junk GM coils, they're dirt cheap from a junkyard or ebay)
Wastegate & BOV brand are up to you. Almost all of them are good. I've even had great luck with some chinese ones & am currently running two 44mm ones on my ranger with a cheap 1g dsm bov.
That lift will be fine with stock valvetrain, but I would advise upgrading. I've run a .542 lift with completely stock e7s springs, & rockers. It lasted 30,000 miles, but I wouldn't advise it. I currently have conical springs with an x303, gt40p heads, stock pistons, & 1.6's I still had a little ways before the valve hit the piston (assuming no float). As the others have said, go with a custom cam if you can shell out the money (Especially with running stock head casting; ported or not, those things are junk)
For the fuel pump, I always advise running two 255's in parallel & Y'ing them together to have a reliable, cheap, & quiet setup.
Also, get a different o2. Yet again, one horrible downside to having a plug&play standalone. If it's not already bought & installed; I doubt you'll need the 4 bar map for this application unless you intend on running race fuel. The map that comes with it will likely exceed the limits of that engine.
If you're building the headers & want them to be good, buy some mandrel bent piping & use those instead of bending them yourself. It will reduce the inside diameter unless you have a mandrel. It only costs around $50-90 for enough good quality mild steel U's to do a v8. If you're really trying to cut cost you can just angle cut & weld straight pipe. I did that with some fence post on one tt5.0, but he wanted it to be as cheap as possible & I wanted to see how low I could get the cost.
Wastegate & BOV brand are up to you. Almost all of them are good. I've even had great luck with some chinese ones & am currently running two 44mm ones on my ranger with a cheap 1g dsm bov.
That lift will be fine with stock valvetrain, but I would advise upgrading. I've run a .542 lift with completely stock e7s springs, & rockers. It lasted 30,000 miles, but I wouldn't advise it. I currently have conical springs with an x303, gt40p heads, stock pistons, & 1.6's I still had a little ways before the valve hit the piston (assuming no float). As the others have said, go with a custom cam if you can shell out the money (Especially with running stock head casting; ported or not, those things are junk)
For the fuel pump, I always advise running two 255's in parallel & Y'ing them together to have a reliable, cheap, & quiet setup.
Also, get a different o2. Yet again, one horrible downside to having a plug&play standalone. If it's not already bought & installed; I doubt you'll need the 4 bar map for this application unless you intend on running race fuel. The map that comes with it will likely exceed the limits of that engine.
If you're building the headers & want them to be good, buy some mandrel bent piping & use those instead of bending them yourself. It will reduce the inside diameter unless you have a mandrel. It only costs around $50-90 for enough good quality mild steel U's to do a v8. If you're really trying to cut cost you can just angle cut & weld straight pipe. I did that with some fence post on one tt5.0, but he wanted it to be as cheap as possible & I wanted to see how low I could get the cost.
02-13-2012, 07:57 AM
#19
is that the edelbrock spyder intake? iv ben thinkin that would be the best way to go but not shor and thanks for the info about tial wastgate i have hered good things about them and idk if i told anyone but im gona be runing 4 to 5 pounds of boost till i git a good tune and slowly work my way up in boost thats the plan at this time and moment things are still comeing together i think il have it installed by may takeing my time that is with rewireing my msII