Nitrious!!! 4 GT
Hey Guys, my current mods are in the signature with those mods I have as of now. I do not currently have the money for a Supercharger, however I want to install Nitrious for my 2001 Mustang GT, What is the best kit and safest on my engine and longivity of my car as you see this is my daily driver? Wet or Dry? I dont know much at all when it comes to NOS. I still have the same gears also,hope to get 3:73 dident know if my Gear Ratio had anything to do with it and what I can run and what I cant? Please help for a my Daily Driver and safest on my car.
Where can you put the purge Exits on a Mustang GT I saw a Cobra where it comes out of the snakes mouth! LOL crazy I guess near my windshield? Why not Dry Kit whats the Difference? And does Nos take away from the life of your car?
any power adder will decrease your engine's life. a wet kit will spray fuel with the nitrous, a dry kit relies on your injectors to provide the extra fuel needed. with a wet, you'll always have the right ammount of fuel when that janx is sprayed. you can put the purge wherever you want.
FYI: unless you're talking about the particular brand, it's just called nitrous.
FYI: unless you're talking about the particular brand, it's just called nitrous.
ORIGINAL: nanaki
any power adder will decrease your engine's life. a wet kit will spray fuel with the nitrous, a dry kit relies on your injectors to provide the extra fuel needed. with a wet, you'll always have the right ammount of fuel when that janx is sprayed. you can put the purge wherever you want.
FYI: unless you're talking about the particular brand, it's just called nitrous.
any power adder will decrease your engine's life. a wet kit will spray fuel with the nitrous, a dry kit relies on your injectors to provide the extra fuel needed. with a wet, you'll always have the right ammount of fuel when that janx is sprayed. you can put the purge wherever you want.
FYI: unless you're talking about the particular brand, it's just called nitrous.
N20 when used properly is safer than a boosted application. There isnt that drag on the engine durring normal driving like you would get with a S/C. Note how earlier I said "properly", thats a very important word here. A tune is EXTEMELY important with a N20 setup. Ambient air temperatures also wont have such a large impact on a juiced vehicle as they would a boosted application.
As far as Wet VS. Dry kits. They both have their ups and downs. One isnt better than the other. The thing that wet kits enjoy is they dont have to be tuned quite as much because the fuel is delivered with the N20. With a dry kit, on higher shots the computer must be tuned so that it it can be told to pump the extra fuel through the injectors. If your going to run a 125 or higher dry shot, be looking at some 24# injectors too. Between a Dry 150 and Wet 150 shot, if they are both setup correctly and tuned you will see no power difference between the two.
The thing I seriously dont like about the wet kits are that you have to tap into the fuel lines. I dont care how good you are or how many times youve done it, its still dangerous. Also Wet kits are Prone to little "Nitrous hicups", if by some chance that fuel puddles or preignites in the intake tract, youll get to see how far your N20 shot will launch an Intake. With a dry shot you dont have to worry about that. Again, Dry kits using higher shots will require heavy dyno tuning and possibly larger injectors. Either way you go a Flip Chip and dyno tune is extremely important.
Youll also enjoy monster TQ numbers from the Juice that the S/C guys would drool over.
ORIGINAL: Steveo707
Great post 94cbra. One question tho, is a dyno tune req. with a Venom VCN-1000 Kit? Since the brain controlls the injectors, does it need a flash?
-Steveo
Great post 94cbra. One question tho, is a dyno tune req. with a Venom VCN-1000 Kit? Since the brain controlls the injectors, does it need a flash?
-Steveo
I was gonna go with Venom b/c it seems to be more-less the safest kit out of the box. It controls the injectors directly, has a built in A/F so if it goes lean itll shut down the nitrous, and seems to have worked well for the few guyz ive talked to. Any more input would be appreciated b4 I go and buy it. haha
thanks
-Steve
thanks
-Steve
Where I live we do not have a dyno, what if I got a Diablo Tuner or SCT Xclaiber? I am only looking to do a 75 HP Shot? For my Daily Driver I would probably only use my Nos once every two weeks. LOL But Still I dont know what to do Wet or Dry? Safest for my Car and no problems with anything is what I want. What should I go with? I want the highest Quality Thanks for being Patient guys!
ORIGINAL: 94Cbra
Shame on you Nanaki! A properly setup and tuned power adder used within the engines limits should not decrease engine life. There are plenty of factory boosted cars that run for 150+k miles. Dont over do it (example: running a 200 shot on stock internals), set it up correctly (example: for high shots it would be wise to utilize a quality ignition system, and make sure you have adequit fuel delivery), and get it tuned by a reputable dyno shop. If you do all that, then things will be A-OK.
N20 when used properly is safer than a boosted application. There isnt that drag on the engine durring normal driving like you would get with a S/C. Note how earlier I said "properly", thats a very important word here. A tune is EXTEMELY important with a N20 setup. Ambient air temperatures also wont have such a large impact on a juiced vehicle as they would a boosted application.
As far as Wet VS. Dry kits. They both have their ups and downs. One isnt better than the other. The thing that wet kits enjoy is they dont have to be tuned quite as much because the fuel is delivered with the N20. With a dry kit, on higher shots the computer must be tuned so that it it can be told to pump the extra fuel through the injectors. If your going to run a 125 or higher dry shot, be looking at some 24# injectors too. Between a Dry 150 and Wet 150 shot, if they are both setup correctly and tuned you will see no power difference between the two.
The thing I seriously dont like about the wet kits are that you have to tap into the fuel lines. I dont care how good you are or how many times youve done it, its still dangerous. Also Wet kits are Prone to little "Nitrous hicups", if by some chance that fuel puddles or preignites in the intake tract, youll get to see how far your N20 shot will launch an Intake. With a dry shot you dont have to worry about that. Again, Dry kits using higher shots will require heavy dyno tuning and possibly larger injectors. Either way you go a Flip Chip and dyno tune is extremely important.
Youll also enjoy monster TQ numbers from the Juice that the S/C guys would drool over.
ORIGINAL: nanaki
any power adder will decrease your engine's life. a wet kit will spray fuel with the nitrous, a dry kit relies on your injectors to provide the extra fuel needed. with a wet, you'll always have the right ammount of fuel when that janx is sprayed. you can put the purge wherever you want.
FYI: unless you're talking about the particular brand, it's just called nitrous.
any power adder will decrease your engine's life. a wet kit will spray fuel with the nitrous, a dry kit relies on your injectors to provide the extra fuel needed. with a wet, you'll always have the right ammount of fuel when that janx is sprayed. you can put the purge wherever you want.
FYI: unless you're talking about the particular brand, it's just called nitrous.
N20 when used properly is safer than a boosted application. There isnt that drag on the engine durring normal driving like you would get with a S/C. Note how earlier I said "properly", thats a very important word here. A tune is EXTEMELY important with a N20 setup. Ambient air temperatures also wont have such a large impact on a juiced vehicle as they would a boosted application.
As far as Wet VS. Dry kits. They both have their ups and downs. One isnt better than the other. The thing that wet kits enjoy is they dont have to be tuned quite as much because the fuel is delivered with the N20. With a dry kit, on higher shots the computer must be tuned so that it it can be told to pump the extra fuel through the injectors. If your going to run a 125 or higher dry shot, be looking at some 24# injectors too. Between a Dry 150 and Wet 150 shot, if they are both setup correctly and tuned you will see no power difference between the two.
The thing I seriously dont like about the wet kits are that you have to tap into the fuel lines. I dont care how good you are or how many times youve done it, its still dangerous. Also Wet kits are Prone to little "Nitrous hicups", if by some chance that fuel puddles or preignites in the intake tract, youll get to see how far your N20 shot will launch an Intake. With a dry shot you dont have to worry about that. Again, Dry kits using higher shots will require heavy dyno tuning and possibly larger injectors. Either way you go a Flip Chip and dyno tune is extremely important.
Youll also enjoy monster TQ numbers from the Juice that the S/C guys would drool over.
The fact of the matter is that ANY mod that adds hp (even 1 hp) adds wear on the engine, thereby decreasing engine life. Why? Because mods that add hp add boost. An intake provides more air that is also denser for the engine, thus creating a larger, more powerful explosion that generates more hp. Now, granted that the wear from an intake isn't much, it is still extra wear that will kill the engine sooner than normal. Whatever, I don't feel like typing any more. G'night.


