Nitrious!!! 4 GT
So your telling me my car is gonna die sooner? So I spend money to kill my car? I thought the exhaust and air inductions made it easier on your car? relieving some of that pressure the stock crap puts on it?
enough with this whole damaging thing. Your scaring the children. Don't be gay, just do what you want to your car. If it blows up then fix it with better parts. If your still worried then maybe racing isn't for you. The fact is driving the car will decrease engine life. Even NOT driving the car will decrease engine life. Engines break. Thats life. Now go get a 100 shot of nitrous and go race some bastards.
ORIGINAL: 94Cbra
Shame on you Nanaki! A properly setup and tuned power adder used within the engines limits should not decrease engine life. There are plenty of factory boosted cars that run for 150+k miles. Dont over do it (example: running a 200 shot on stock internals), set it up correctly (example: for high shots it would be wise to utilize a quality ignition system, and make sure you have adequit fuel delivery), and get it tuned by a reputable dyno shop. If you do all that, then things will be A-OK.
N20 when used properly is safer than a boosted application. There isnt that drag on the engine durring normal driving like you would get with a S/C. Note how earlier I said "properly", thats a very important word here. A tune is EXTEMELY important with a N20 setup. Ambient air temperatures also wont have such a large impact on a juiced vehicle as they would a boosted application.
As far as Wet VS. Dry kits. They both have their ups and downs. One isnt better than the other. The thing that wet kits enjoy is they dont have to be tuned quite as much because the fuel is delivered with the N20. With a dry kit, on higher shots the computer must be tuned so that it it can be told to pump the extra fuel through the injectors. If your going to run a 125 or higher dry shot, be looking at some 24# injectors too. Between a Dry 150 and Wet 150 shot, if they are both setup correctly and tuned you will see no power difference between the two.
The thing I seriously dont like about the wet kits are that you have to tap into the fuel lines. I dont care how good you are or how many times youve done it, its still dangerous. Also Wet kits are Prone to little "Nitrous hicups", if by some chance that fuel puddles or preignites in the intake tract, youll get to see how far your N20 shot will launch an Intake. With a dry shot you dont have to worry about that. Again, Dry kits using higher shots will require heavy dyno tuning and possibly larger injectors. Either way you go a Flip Chip and dyno tune is extremely important.
Youll also enjoy monster TQ numbers from the Juice that the S/C guys would drool over.
ORIGINAL: nanaki
any power adder will decrease your engine's life. a wet kit will spray fuel with the nitrous, a dry kit relies on your injectors to provide the extra fuel needed. with a wet, you'll always have the right ammount of fuel when that janx is sprayed. you can put the purge wherever you want.
FYI: unless you're talking about the particular brand, it's just called nitrous.
any power adder will decrease your engine's life. a wet kit will spray fuel with the nitrous, a dry kit relies on your injectors to provide the extra fuel needed. with a wet, you'll always have the right ammount of fuel when that janx is sprayed. you can put the purge wherever you want.
FYI: unless you're talking about the particular brand, it's just called nitrous.
N20 when used properly is safer than a boosted application. There isnt that drag on the engine durring normal driving like you would get with a S/C. Note how earlier I said "properly", thats a very important word here. A tune is EXTEMELY important with a N20 setup. Ambient air temperatures also wont have such a large impact on a juiced vehicle as they would a boosted application.
As far as Wet VS. Dry kits. They both have their ups and downs. One isnt better than the other. The thing that wet kits enjoy is they dont have to be tuned quite as much because the fuel is delivered with the N20. With a dry kit, on higher shots the computer must be tuned so that it it can be told to pump the extra fuel through the injectors. If your going to run a 125 or higher dry shot, be looking at some 24# injectors too. Between a Dry 150 and Wet 150 shot, if they are both setup correctly and tuned you will see no power difference between the two.
The thing I seriously dont like about the wet kits are that you have to tap into the fuel lines. I dont care how good you are or how many times youve done it, its still dangerous. Also Wet kits are Prone to little "Nitrous hicups", if by some chance that fuel puddles or preignites in the intake tract, youll get to see how far your N20 shot will launch an Intake. With a dry shot you dont have to worry about that. Again, Dry kits using higher shots will require heavy dyno tuning and possibly larger injectors. Either way you go a Flip Chip and dyno tune is extremely important.
Youll also enjoy monster TQ numbers from the Juice that the S/C guys would drool over.

Wet shots can make more power, because(the big Because!) they can be run on a stand-alone fuel system.
A small 1-2 gallon tank hidden somewhere with some type of 100+octane.
Very effective and can make much bigger numbers than you could with a dry(unless of course your daily driver drinks 100+octane on a regular basis)
Also, with bigger shots with the dry kit you'll be running VERY rich until that nitrous gets into those cylinders.
May only be for a split second, but it still makes a difference.
ORIGINAL: DreamKing
Haha, shame on you for arguing through the generalization fallacy. Just because cars have lasted 150k+ miles without power adder does not mean that power adder doesn't decrease the engine life. In other words, how do we know that those cars that lasted 150k miles wouldn't have lasted 200k without the power adder? Or what if the power adder was never actually used, meaning that boost was never activated? These are all variables that make your argument void. For every example that you can cite where a boosted car lasted 150k mi there are probably 500 where the motor blew a few thousand miles after installation of the power adder.
The fact of the matter is that ANY mod that adds hp (even 1 hp) adds wear on the engine, thereby decreasing engine life. Why? Because mods that add hp add boost. An intake provides more air that is also denser for the engine, thus creating a larger, more powerful explosion that generates more hp. Now, granted that the wear from an intake isn't much, it is still extra wear that will kill the engine sooner than normal. Whatever, I don't feel like typing any more. G'night.
Haha, shame on you for arguing through the generalization fallacy. Just because cars have lasted 150k+ miles without power adder does not mean that power adder doesn't decrease the engine life. In other words, how do we know that those cars that lasted 150k miles wouldn't have lasted 200k without the power adder? Or what if the power adder was never actually used, meaning that boost was never activated? These are all variables that make your argument void. For every example that you can cite where a boosted car lasted 150k mi there are probably 500 where the motor blew a few thousand miles after installation of the power adder.
The fact of the matter is that ANY mod that adds hp (even 1 hp) adds wear on the engine, thereby decreasing engine life. Why? Because mods that add hp add boost. An intake provides more air that is also denser for the engine, thus creating a larger, more powerful explosion that generates more hp. Now, granted that the wear from an intake isn't much, it is still extra wear that will kill the engine sooner than normal. Whatever, I don't feel like typing any more. G'night.
Because under most circumstances yes.
It will.
But, so will neglegence and other such crap.
But here's where i have a problem, you state that any mod adding even ONE horsepower to the engine is bad for it.
Will decrease life and whatnot.
And what about the mods that "Free Up" power?
Such as Underdrive pullies, exhaust, lighter drivetrain components etc?
I've proven my point
ORIGINAL: sk8erdudex
enough with this whole damaging thing. Your scaring the children. Don't be gay, just do what you want to your car. If it blows up then fix it with better parts. If your still worried then maybe racing isn't for you. The fact is driving the car will decrease engine life. Even NOT driving the car will decrease engine life. Engines break. Thats life. Now go get a 100 shot of nitrous and go race some bastards.
enough with this whole damaging thing. Your scaring the children. Don't be gay, just do what you want to your car. If it blows up then fix it with better parts. If your still worried then maybe racing isn't for you. The fact is driving the car will decrease engine life. Even NOT driving the car will decrease engine life. Engines break. Thats life. Now go get a 100 shot of nitrous and go race some bastards.
Amen.
What do you guys think about my 75 Shot of Nitrious to my 01 GT Automatic ? ZEX make any 75 Shots? And what tuner would hook up with my 75 Shot the best? Im gonna go Wet to because of all the crap with the Fuel system. What tuner and what company of NOS?
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