Ok, here is a list of what i have ready for my car

Zex wet kit
steeda timing adjuster
tr6 plugs
a hobbs switch of some kind (I am assuming FPSS?)

I bought the zex kit used and it came with the hobbs/FPSS, I am new to nitrous but i have done some homework, now with that being said does anyone know of a diagram on how to hook up the hobbs/FPSS or any advice. Also this is going on a automatic modular car, now with that in mind with the rule of thumb to not spray unless over 3000 rpm, does that mean i have to flick the switch after take off in first gear to keep from spraying at too low of rpm?
Also here are some mods I have, off road x pipe, functional ram air, and a shift kit.

 

It means your rpm window switch will not allow spray unlessyour at 3k rpms & wot @ the same time.

It's so you don't engage spray by accident & fly into something.

 

Did you downloaded the installation pdf for your kit from ZEX?
The FPSS is going to go inline on the NMU ground wire. If the pressure drops below approx 35 psi it will break the ground. FYI: some switches are adjustable and obviously some are designed for carburetor setups not fuel injection.
I see no mention of a window switch so right now the NMU will activate any time you are at full throttle (set up routine in the instructions). FYI, if you're battery goes dead or real low the NMU will have to be re-calibrated to the full throttle signal from the TPS.
With out a window switch you can manually control when the system activates using a momentary switch, not the master switch that arms the system. You want one you can mount on the wheel or shifter so you hands are where they need to be. These are the same switches used for line lock activation and are cheap. So the NMU will not activate if you are not at full throttle (when set properly), the FPSS will break ground if fuel pressure is too low and the momentary switch will break ground when not pressed. Window switch will automate what rpm the system activates and shuts down (you configure the high & low rpm window) plus you can config what gear to start spraying in.
For wiring just google nitrous wiring, there are some very clear illustrations out there.
One more thing is to get a bottle warmer and bottle pressure gauge. Bottle pressure is key to the system's calibration which affects consistency and engine health.

 

thanks, so basically I can ditch the arming switch if I am just going to run a manual push button anyways?

 

If it was a basic set up with no electronics I would say yes, but even then with a heater and purge I would like to see it with a master arming switch that will power/kill the whole system. With electronics like the NMU or a window switch I worry that cycling the system on/off via the main power won't be good for them. Also, there might be a delay as a result which might cause some problems.

 

That's what I thought too. I have the wet kit with a NMU that hooks right up to the TPS. My only worry is arming the system before a launch on the street, pre-loading the converter and having it spray under 3000 rpm. The only thing i can think to make it manually activate and still be armed with a master switch is program the NMU to the TPS like normal then run a inline push button switch between the TPS and the NMU on the output wire.

 

Don't think that will work, at least it probably will turn on the CEL and may mess with the signal to the sensor. I actually did set mine up with the manual switch for a couple weeks just because I wanted to be in complete control until I was sure everything was good. I'm trying to recall how I set it up. Probably on the negative wire and used a relay but can't remember for sure.
I would consider not loading up the convertor as that's a sure way to shorten its life span. It will flash just as high if not higher by just flooring it. You can spray under 3k, 2500 is the trouble zone. Unless your running a real sticky tire you're going to spin anyway and be at 3k before you can react.

 

Uh, motor is not hold if you spray early in rpm range.
2500 rpm your motor could take it, but 3k the motor is up to speed.
It will accept easier, saw an srt8 blow up he kicked in at only 2k, against warnings.

He liked to spray early, good by block.
It's better for the motor. Less stress.