Supercharger question
Procharger is a really good choice. I am very pleased with mine on my 'vette.
However, I've ownered a bunch of different SCs (including Eatons and Paxtons) and my overall recommendation is this: If you have a basically stock engine, get a twin-screw type like an Eaton or a Whipple. Add it on, get a good tune, and you will be pleased with the extra 75-90 RWHP you get.
If you have a seriously modded engine, particularly one with added cubes (a stroker) or really top-mothc ported heads, you probably want to look harder at the Procharger as the better bargain for you situation.
Screw type SCs FORCE air into a stock engine well, whereas centrifugal SCs (Procharger, Vortech) don't, they generate boost but don't fight to overcome any resistance of unported, stock heads to the same extent that a screw type does. Thus, screw types are good for a stock engine when you haven't spent money on porting, a cam, etc. They force the flow and give you a good, broad power band and make up for all manner of sins in the stock design.
Centrifugals tend to work best when feeding good, ported heads (this doesn't mean they do poorly on stock heads, they just don't do nearly as well until high RPMs on a stock head).
However, I've ownered a bunch of different SCs (including Eatons and Paxtons) and my overall recommendation is this: If you have a basically stock engine, get a twin-screw type like an Eaton or a Whipple. Add it on, get a good tune, and you will be pleased with the extra 75-90 RWHP you get.
If you have a seriously modded engine, particularly one with added cubes (a stroker) or really top-mothc ported heads, you probably want to look harder at the Procharger as the better bargain for you situation.
Screw type SCs FORCE air into a stock engine well, whereas centrifugal SCs (Procharger, Vortech) don't, they generate boost but don't fight to overcome any resistance of unported, stock heads to the same extent that a screw type does. Thus, screw types are good for a stock engine when you haven't spent money on porting, a cam, etc. They force the flow and give you a good, broad power band and make up for all manner of sins in the stock design.
Centrifugals tend to work best when feeding good, ported heads (this doesn't mean they do poorly on stock heads, they just don't do nearly as well until high RPMs on a stock head).
ORIGINAL: Lee Willis
Procharger is a really good choice. I am very pleased with mine on my 'vette.
However, I've ownered a bunch of different SCs (including Eatons and Paxtons) and my overall recommendation is this: If you have a basically stock engine, get a twin-screw type like an Eaton or a Whipple. Add it on, get a good tune, and you will be pleased with the extra 75-90 RWHP you get.
Procharger is a really good choice. I am very pleased with mine on my 'vette.
However, I've ownered a bunch of different SCs (including Eatons and Paxtons) and my overall recommendation is this: If you have a basically stock engine, get a twin-screw type like an Eaton or a Whipple. Add it on, get a good tune, and you will be pleased with the extra 75-90 RWHP you get.
ORIGINAL: delgadog
well, as a matter of fact, i started looking into procharger, and so far i like what i'm seeing, they have wide wide range of power, different set ups as in multiple s/c for the same year, i've done a little research on s/c, i don't plan on getting one as of yet, but in the future i'm going to lay down the cash for one. i know theres more than just slapping on a s/c, but i'd like to get a head start so when the time does come, i got all the facts straight. plus, it'll let me focus my efforts of modifying my car, so i can get my car ready when the time comes for a s/c and not have to remod my car. bassically i'm looking ahead. and if you think i'm not ready for a s/c why don't you school me up then so i may be ready, i'm lookin to the more experienced guys to help me out so i can try to have a fast sexy mustang like everyone here. i freakin admire and covet there cars, and if they can get there stangs like that, i'll listen.
well, as a matter of fact, i started looking into procharger, and so far i like what i'm seeing, they have wide wide range of power, different set ups as in multiple s/c for the same year, i've done a little research on s/c, i don't plan on getting one as of yet, but in the future i'm going to lay down the cash for one. i know theres more than just slapping on a s/c, but i'd like to get a head start so when the time does come, i got all the facts straight. plus, it'll let me focus my efforts of modifying my car, so i can get my car ready when the time comes for a s/c and not have to remod my car. bassically i'm looking ahead. and if you think i'm not ready for a s/c why don't you school me up then so i may be ready, i'm lookin to the more experienced guys to help me out so i can try to have a fast sexy mustang like everyone here. i freakin admire and covet there cars, and if they can get there stangs like that, i'll listen.
well.. ive got a vortech on my stang at 10psi of boost and i gained over 100rwhp... probably close to 160rwhp i gained. but i have a full bolt on GT plus the blower with an aftercooler... it depends on if your car is intercooled or not to how much boost you can run and how much you can run safely. if your not intercooled and are running say like 16lbs of boost on street gas (93 octane) you have a very good chance of detonation. say you do that with an intercooler, you will make more power safer from having a cooler intake charge going into your motor. like i say, there are maybe things that have to do with what you have.....
and before ive heard that prochargers on stangs only put out like 370rwhp or so while im putting out 440rwhp? im not sure if the procharger kit was tested at a different boost level though.
to have a car supercharged you need to have supporting mods for the blower such as a beefed up fuel system with new injectors and fuel pump. you will need a new MAF also. i would also suggest replacing the clutch to a stronger clutch that will support more power. the limit of your stock motor is around 450rwhp so i wouldnt go anywhere close to that if i was you. you will need some tires that will actually get traction. i learned this the hard way put throwing a blower on and then trying to actually get traction on the street.
it doesnt work with stock tires. [:@] i would also suggest some gauges to keep track of your engine to know whats going on such as maybe a boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge and oil pressure gauges. those are pretty important. im running boost and fuel pressure on mine. you will also need a chip for it and to put it on a dyno to get it tuned professionally. lets say you buy a vortech non aftercooled at 8lbs of boost on your stock motor. you will dyno around 350rwhp with all the supporting mods. if you up it some with say full exhuast and intake you may get up to like 390rwhp. then add an aftercooler and get to 430-450rwhp. it just all depends on what you want out of the car.
is your car a auto or manual?
ORIGINAL: nanaki
eaton is roots.
ORIGINAL: Lee Willis
Procharger is a really good choice. I am very pleased with mine on my 'vette.
However, I've ownered a bunch of different SCs (including Eatons and Paxtons) and my overall recommendation is this: If you have a basically stock engine, get a twin-screw type like an Eaton or a Whipple. Add it on, get a good tune, and you will be pleased with the extra 75-90 RWHP you get.
Procharger is a really good choice. I am very pleased with mine on my 'vette.
However, I've ownered a bunch of different SCs (including Eatons and Paxtons) and my overall recommendation is this: If you have a basically stock engine, get a twin-screw type like an Eaton or a Whipple. Add it on, get a good tune, and you will be pleased with the extra 75-90 RWHP you get.
Either one works and the practical difference is tiny, the important point being that both types are positive displacement units and thus very good choices for mounting on stock engines.
But the difference is noticeable. A true, honest-to-God-as Roots-designed it "Roots supercharger" almost always draws air in the top and pushes it out the bottom (look at a Weiand). By contrast, all screw or modified roots types designed for automotive use draw it in one END (Eaton, Whipple, etc., have the intake on the end of the SC unit, not the top) and pushes it out the bottom. (A modified form used in very large industrial Deltic Diesils pushes it out the other end).
There is actually a big difference in how they compress the air, too, if you are an engineer designing them, anyway. The roots type compresses it between the impellers in about half a revolution, there is actually a moment when the air is trapped by the impellers completely surrounded by them. The screw type sucks are in the intake and then "screws" it down the screw chamber, pushing it toward toward the other end, but the air is always in contact with the outside walls of the compression chamber, but even so the screws turning and pushing are building pressure, and eventually pushes it out the bottom at higher pressure. Typically it takes more than a revolution of the screw impellers to compress ithe air before it leaves the SC (as compared to less than 1/2 rev with the Roots), and the screw type is arguably a better design than a pure roots type in this regard because of heating concerns: 1) the longer use of 1+ revolutions allows slower pressurization is alway to be preferred because it means slower heating of the intake charge, 2) the pressurization is done against the outer SC case and this permits it to soak up more of the heat (by contrast the true Roots impellers get really HOT!.
but overall the two units act so much the same and look so much the same and more and more, everyone refers to them as "Roots types."
i'm intrigued at what racer02GTstang said, 430-450 rwhp is what i'm lookin to get. as of yet, i don't have my stang yet, i'm picking it out as i speak, i'm just gettin all the facts right b4 i put all this money into modding my car. i know i have to prepare my car b4 putting anything like a s/c or turbo in it. thanks for all of your help, i really apriciate it.
i didn't read that whole thing, but that's because i don't care about every little nut and bolt on a roots and twin screw. alls i said was the eaton is a roots, which is what it is. i don't care what it was called 25 years ago or anything. you can say anything you want.
Okay, fine. The important thing is they are very good superchargers for mostly stock engines, they build boost early, they have softer heating curves than some others, require very little maintenance, and if you get an Eaton with the Magnusen bypass valve they require next to nothing in fuel economy. Plus the screw type makes a better wail than the roots or a cetrifugla, in my experience. Just glorious at about 14000 RPM (supercharger RPM).
Actually, Eaton does do a few twin screw products, as well. As a matter of fact, the blower on the Ford GT is an Eaton screw. They are famous for their roots units, and produce mostly roots blowers, though. I do believe the internals on the Eaton screw blowers are Lysholm, same as whipple, KB, and Saleen.
ORIGINAL: Birdieman4
Actually, Eaton does do a few twin screw products, as well. As a matter of fact, the blower on the Ford GT is an Eaton screw. They are famous for their roots units, and produce mostly roots blowers, though. I do believe the internals on the Eaton screw blowers are Lysholm, same as whipple, KB, and Saleen.
Actually, Eaton does do a few twin screw products, as well. As a matter of fact, the blower on the Ford GT is an Eaton screw. They are famous for their roots units, and produce mostly roots blowers, though. I do believe the internals on the Eaton screw blowers are Lysholm, same as whipple, KB, and Saleen.
I was with Asea Brown Boveri, which built only turbos, but builds about 30% of the truck and ship and industrial trubchargers in the world (and, using the same impellers, what are called "microturbine" stantionary jet engines to power electric generators). We did a lot of business with Eaton, they are a big company into a lot more than just the automotive aftermarket. Who makes what gets complicated. But I really respect whatever genius came up with the screw, or "modified roots" design, that not only softened the heat curves, but it made a postive displacement blower that sucked out the end rather than through the top, and that made is so much easier to fit under the hood of a car, particularly in the aftermarket (I know its is cool to have a big Weiand sticking out of a hole cut in the the hood, but you know, it sort of draws cops, too.
And I also think the blower on the Ford GT is Lysholm - I know it is a screw type, and its 122 cubic inchs of blower displacement, I hear, and Eaton does not make a screw type bigger than their 112 cubic inch model, which I had on my vette when it had a 346 LS6 in it.
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