CrazyAl

I think camber bolts are just fine. I say that becasue the official procedure for camber adjustment in the Ford factory service manual is to use camber bolts. The manual even describes how to install them. Also, the OEM front struts even have marks on to assist in the process. This, combined with the fact that bolts are much cheaper than plates, makes it clear to me!

I think you could do it yourself if you really wanted to. You'd need a camber gage or an angle-finder. However, if it were me I'd just take it to an alignment shop and have them do it. This is their bread and butter, and alignments are not very expensive. Plus, alignment shops tend to have computerized machines to assist in the process. They can do it much more accuratley than the average garage mechanic can.

ThisBlood147

Sounds good. I plan to have her realigned anyways once everything is on the car, so I'll just tote the camber bolts over to the shop for them to put on. Thanks again CA.[sm=smiley20.gif]

S2Charlie

test new pic

darkhorse_07

CrazyAl, thanks for all the great comments. I definitely like to see your feed back on the three options below, any thoughts?

Roush Kit
Rear Stabilizer Bar $296.06
Front Coil Springs $146.04
Front Stabilizer Bar $284.42
Front Struts $323.21
Rear Coil Springs $124.99
Rear Shocks $175.82
$1400 as a package

OR

Shelby CS6 Suspension Kit
$1,299.00
sway bars
shocks
springs
Lowers the car by 2". Fits any 2005-UP Mustang. Shelby recommends using their 20x9 wheels with low profile tires.

OR

Ford Racinging Kit
$1,149.00
M-2005-FR3
Dampers M-18000-A
Lowering Springs M-5300-K
Sway Bars
M-5490-A
Strut Tower Brace M-20201-S197.
Strut tower brace does not clear 2007 with plastic engine cover
All components are designed to work together as a package
Lowers car approximately 1-1/2"
Dampers, uniquely tuned by Multimatic Motorsports (the same company that makes dampers for the FR500C race car)

CrazyAl

Here are my thoughts:

First off, front sway bars--and this applies to all the kits you mentioned. I don't know why they all include a new front sway bar. The car doesn't need one. The REAR, yeah, that's a great upgrade. But the front isn't needed. What's more, part of the reason for stiffening the rear only is to change the steering characteristics of the car. Stock, this car (like most) has a tendency to understeer when you push it hard in the corners. By stiffening the rear sway bar in relation to the front, you remove some of this understeer. Skip the front sway bar. You don't need it, and the money is much better spent elsewhere.


Roush Kit

No specific comments here.

Shelby CS6 Suspension Kit

Personally I think the Shelby drop is too low. I think 2" is too much. Also, I am not a fan of 20" wheels with low-profile tires which they suggest Low-pro tires have very little sidewall, which gives you a harsh ride and also is very bad for hooking up in a drag race situation. I think this is more of a STYLE kit and not so much of a "practical" kit. If you like that style, then this is probably a good buy. But from my point of view, which is performance first, style second, then I would avoid it.

Ford Racinging Kit

The strut tower bar is not particularly functional. It's "jewlery" in my opinion. I wouldn't buy one. Otherwise, no specific comments.


...now for the generic comments:

Personally, I would piece together my own kit. The reason is so you can pick the best of each individual component. For example, I would much rather have the Toicko D-spec shocks as opposed to any of the shocks listed above.

Here would be my pick for a suspension package:

Coil springs: your choice of Ford, Roush, Steeda Ultralite, or Eibach Pro-Kit
Shocks: Toicko D-Specs ($540 shipped from Brenspeed)
Rear Sway Bar: Steeda or BMR
BMR or Spohn Adjustable Panhard Bar
BMR Panhard Bar Brace (if you can afford it, throw it in)
BMR Adjustable "Street" Lower control arms
Camber Bolts

Of course, you can add to that, but that's my suggestion for starters.
Here are some other threads to read:

https://mustangforums.com/m_2230421/tm.htm

https://mustangforums.com/m_1696246/tm.htm

darkhorse_07

CrazyAl, Thanks! I like the idea of buying the separately and I'll check into the addtional threads.

androdz

Hmm CrazyAl why do I need the panhard brace if I have adj. LCA and Panhard. You state it is not really needed but I would like to know the benefits to see if they outweight the 100 bucks. Also where is the cheapest place to get the bmr UCA? Also do I really need the LCA's Relocation brackets if I got them adjustable with adj. panhard?

Att. Andrew

CrazyAl

The panhard brace firms up the suspension in the rear.

If you already have the other parts installed, it's not really worth buying it and then paying someone to install it. However, I think it's worthwhile to do at the same time as the other mods--its essentially a free install while everything else is apart anyway.

As for the adjustable LCAs and the relocation brackets, they are totally seperate parts from the panhard and UCA/LCA. If you have an adjustable panhard and/or adjustable LCAs, that's great, but that has nothing to do with the LCA relocation brackets (and vice versa)

Adjustable LCAs allow you to change their LENGTH and therefore the pinion angle of the car. The LCA relocation brackets let you change instant center. Those are two totally different things. If you want to adjust both, then you need both parts.

read this thread: https://mustangforums.com/m_2230421/tm.htm

androdz

So panhard brace and relocation brackets are the way to go. Is the Upper control arm a must also and the brace? I do most of the work with my neighbor on his lift so the instal cost is not there. Do you know of a site that sells them all cheap?

Att. Andrew

CrazyAl

I'd say the UCA is about on par with the panhard brace as far as desireability. Are they are "must-have" mod? No. Are they beneficial? Yes.

As for the pricing, I bought mine through either BMR directly or through LMP Performance (forum sponsor). I shopped around a bit but I didn't find any particularly low prices.