RodeoFlyer

fwiw I dig my Granatelli. They split up a set for me in order to let me have just a front bar, because that is all I was allowed for Solo F-stock. When I gave that up my sponsor called them up and they sent me the rear for FREE lol. My car is completely torn apart right now, and they have been ever so helpful. It's also nice for me that they're only a 45 min drive away if i need anything. One of they're top guys is actually coming to my sponsor's shop today to check out my car and PERSONALLY bring the correct front sway-bar bushings for my new billet brackets. (they sent ones for the stock brackets). I like companies like them,BMR,Maximum, that come out and mix it up with the public and lend their time. Another bonus is that the smaller companies are much more easier to get questions answered and receive better pricing..

06GT4RAD

Yeah I am actually going to break down and buy it and then send it off to either the poweder coater to be coated in a color similar to the Redfire or off to teh chrome plating shop to have it chromed.

Richard

dkegel

I've been researching this myself. The stock rear bar is 20mm. The BMR bar is only 22mm. Not worth it for me. The Steeda is 24mm but pricey. It's The Hellwig bar is 25mm and adjustable. I have not called them, but if it can still be had for the $150 Group Buy price from last year it's probably the best deal out there. The next choice for me is probably the Progress bar. It's 24mm and can be had for $145 plus $20 shipping on Ebay.

Others I've found are Spohn (25mm/adjustable), Eibach( 24mm), Addco (22mm), and H&R (26mm??).

As for the front bar, I'm not sure why anyone replaces that (others have mentioned this as well). Other than the H&R bar (36mm) they're all 35mm which is the same as the stock front bar.

Just my $.02

Dave Kegel

RodeoFlyer

the differences arent just in size, but material,quality/location of bends, and so on. it all depends on what you plan to do. for a street/ autocross car it isn't necessary. My car autocrossed better with no front bar at all.

CrazyAl

Rodeoflyer's comments are good. You cannot compare material diameter alone.

A 22mm bar made ofa chrome-silicon alloy will be much stiffer than a 24mm bar made of plain steel.

Likewise, the aftermarket front bars are 35 mm like stock, but they are also SOLID whereas the OEM one is hollow.

I do agree that there is no need to replace the front bar however. Part of the reason for upgrading the rear ONLY is to shift the steering bias. The car has an understeer problem from the factory. By stiffening the rear relative to the front, you can correct this. But if you stiffen both, you're not helping things any.

dkegel

True. That's an old Auto-X trick that works for most cars, but that setup wouldbe a handful on the street, and undriveable on a roadcourse. Like you said, it depends on what you want to do.

Dave

dkegel

I'm not sure that's true, at least not for all of the bars. For example, the BMR front 35mm bar is hollow. It gets confusing though, trying to figure outwho's got what to offer. At least for me anyway.

Dave

CrazyAl

The BMRs are hollow, but they do have a thicker wall than OEM.

Most brands of the fronts that I have seen are solid.

vsop

Like many have said.. You have 2 issues.. Added weight vs strength as well as proper handling.

You can go to far with sway bars and throw your handling off. You have to find the proper balance.
Me I would want a chrome-moly bar so that I could keep the weight down while still having the strength of
the heavier bars. Just like most do with roll cages.

As of now, I'm not touching the stock sway bars. I have new parts ready to be installed for the rest of the car both front & rear suspension, but I'm going to wait and see if I need to replace the sway bars