dly

While installing these Brackets there are 2 metal sleeves that the 2 bolts that go in the orginally hole are suppose to fit in. These sleeves go inside the brackets but they were about 1/2" to long. Luckly I have a Chop saw and could easily cut the extra off. Now the fit perfectly. Just surprize that I had to do this to the kit. Funny thing was a mark on each sleeve right were I needed to cut them. But the install is in UCA,LCA, Sway bar all are tight and they make the car a bigger blast to drive. Alright installed were TeinH Lower springs and Tokica D-Specs. Thanks for all the advice that was given here, it all helped.

dly 07 Black GT/CS



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Va. Stang

It is recomended to weld in the relocation bracket then remove the bolt and spacer from the org.L.C.A. bolt hole. Thats what my BMR instructions say.

howarmat

I dont think welding in needed. Do a search with crazyal as poster and you will find everything you want to know and more.

CrazyAl

Welding is not technically required unless you have a power adder (Turbo/Nitrous/Supercharger) or unless you are otherwise putting a high load on the rear suspension (such as running slicks on the drag strip).

However, in my opinion welding them on is definatley the preferable option to a bolt-only install. I highly recommend welding them.

Keep in mind that most of the "driving force" that pushes your car forward (300+ HP) must travel through these brackets! You want them as secure as possible. If you are not going to weld them, then I would be extra-careful with your bolts. Clean them with brake cleaner before installation. Use Loctite. Make extra sure that you torque them down properly.

dly

Alright, I'll get the Mig welder out of the Garage and run some beads along the contact points but will leave the bolts in to see if the welds crack after a few lauches. thanks again

dly 07 Black GT/CS

PERTANO

I had to weld mine in. I started to get a shifty sensation from the rearend a few weeks after I installed the brackets. The car would load up fine, but when I got off it the car would move pretty hard to the right. I welded the brackets in and installed an adjustable Panhard and it was all cleared up. Scared the heck out of me the first time the car did it though. It moved real hard and I thought I was going for a ride.

leepinlen

I'm getting brackets next week, will I have to readjust my lca's to maintain pinion angle or are the other holes offset to compansate for the lower position? Thanks

CrazyAl

On the BMR brackets the holes are in a circular arc, so changing the LCA position does not affect the pinion angle.

leepinlen

Thanks crazyal, I 've learned alot from your posts. do u think the that will stop the squeaking from the ploye bushings if I return the lca to even location,? right now its about 1 1/2 " lower in the front attachment point. also the ride seems a bit stiff..not alot of susp. movement. Thanks

CrazyAl

Squeaking means the bushings are not lubricated properly. If your bushings are squeaking then they need to be greased. Use silicone grease made specifically for poly bushings--plain grease will damage the poly.

Your ride will be quite rough with your current setup. Once you get the LCAs level you will see a major improvement in ride quality and traction.