Quick Order Check(Critique Setup Please!)
Currently going to order some suspension work. At the moment, please critique it to the T! Links to good prices would be helpful.
BMR Adj LCA "Street". ($259)
BMR LCA Relocation Brackets ($134)
BMR Adj Panhard Rod, (Should i get Chrome Moly, or Tubular, what's the difference?) ($185 for Chrome Moly)
BMR Panhard Brace($109)
BMR Lowering Springs (1.25F/1.75R)($229)
BMR Rear Sway Bar($200)
Total $1116
Will I need anything else? Or is this a solid setup that could always add Tokico's later? Am I going overboard with a car that I do not intend to take over 400rwhp? All these prices are from Brenspeed and Lethal Performance. Could I order all this and be ready to install, or any little kits, grease, buts & bolts etc I need? And can a amateur install, or do I need to take to a shop? And will I be able to adjust this stuff myself properly taking into consider change in ride height, or should I take it somewhere? I was unsure of UCA, as my car isn't a race car, or even have a lot of HP. From my readings I don't see how this mod will help my daily driving, and the occasional street race.
BMR Adj LCA "Street". ($259)
BMR LCA Relocation Brackets ($134)
BMR Adj Panhard Rod, (Should i get Chrome Moly, or Tubular, what's the difference?) ($185 for Chrome Moly)
BMR Panhard Brace($109)
BMR Lowering Springs (1.25F/1.75R)($229)
BMR Rear Sway Bar($200)
Total $1116
Will I need anything else? Or is this a solid setup that could always add Tokico's later? Am I going overboard with a car that I do not intend to take over 400rwhp? All these prices are from Brenspeed and Lethal Performance. Could I order all this and be ready to install, or any little kits, grease, buts & bolts etc I need? And can a amateur install, or do I need to take to a shop? And will I be able to adjust this stuff myself properly taking into consider change in ride height, or should I take it somewhere? I was unsure of UCA, as my car isn't a race car, or even have a lot of HP. From my readings I don't see how this mod will help my daily driving, and the occasional street race.
Would it be effective to buy Adjustable LCA's, Rear Swaybar, and then order BMR's lowering package? It would cost $988 as opposed to the above setup which is $1116. The only Differences really being I would gain Upper Strut Mounts and the Camber Bolts and lose the Panhard Brace, as the adjustable Panhard is the $134 BMR Panhard, not the $185BMR Chrome Moly Panhard. It sounds like ordering the Lowering Kit, buying BMR LCAs, Rear Sway, and Panhard Brace would be the best comboination no? Would run $1097. The BMR package consist of:
[ul][*]Lowering springs - BMR lowering springs are cold wound from high tensile strength chrome-silicon-vanadium to provide the longest lasting, most consistent rate possible. Specifically engineered around OE specs to maintain OE ride quality.[*]Adjustable Panhard Rod - Since the S197 Mustang is equipped with a panhard rod to locate the rear end in the chassis, altering ride height can shift the rearend to the drivers' side up to 3/8". This not only effects alignment but can create tire clearance issues as well. To properly re-center the rearend, an adjustable panhard rod is necessary. Available with grease fluted polyurethane bushings or heavy duty Teflon-lined QA1 rod ends.[*]Control Arm Relocation Brackets - Lowering a Mustang changes the rear control arm angles, altering the vehicles "instant center" location. This instant center is the virtual lift point of the suspension and is responsible for initiating weight transfer upon acceleration. Relocating the control arm mounts on the rearend re-gains and improves upon the original geometry.[*]Front Camber bolts - The OE strut has no provisions for camber adjustment yet lowering the car even 1" creates too much negative camber for daily driving. The result is accelerated tire wear. BMR's camber bolts provide up to 2 degrees of camber correction.[*]Upper Strut Mounts - Unlike most strut-equipped vehicles, your S197 Mustang comes with throw-away plastic upper strut mounts that are only good for one-time assembly. Fords service manuals specify replacing this part anytime the strut/spring assembly is disassembled. Re-use of original strut mounts often result in a "popping" sound heard while turning. This is the result of lost bearings due to the strut mounts weak plastic carrier.[/ul]
[ul][*]Lowering springs - BMR lowering springs are cold wound from high tensile strength chrome-silicon-vanadium to provide the longest lasting, most consistent rate possible. Specifically engineered around OE specs to maintain OE ride quality.[*]Adjustable Panhard Rod - Since the S197 Mustang is equipped with a panhard rod to locate the rear end in the chassis, altering ride height can shift the rearend to the drivers' side up to 3/8". This not only effects alignment but can create tire clearance issues as well. To properly re-center the rearend, an adjustable panhard rod is necessary. Available with grease fluted polyurethane bushings or heavy duty Teflon-lined QA1 rod ends.[*]Control Arm Relocation Brackets - Lowering a Mustang changes the rear control arm angles, altering the vehicles "instant center" location. This instant center is the virtual lift point of the suspension and is responsible for initiating weight transfer upon acceleration. Relocating the control arm mounts on the rearend re-gains and improves upon the original geometry.[*]Front Camber bolts - The OE strut has no provisions for camber adjustment yet lowering the car even 1" creates too much negative camber for daily driving. The result is accelerated tire wear. BMR's camber bolts provide up to 2 degrees of camber correction.[*]Upper Strut Mounts - Unlike most strut-equipped vehicles, your S197 Mustang comes with throw-away plastic upper strut mounts that are only good for one-time assembly. Fords service manuals specify replacing this part anytime the strut/spring assembly is disassembled. Re-use of original strut mounts often result in a "popping" sound heard while turning. This is the result of lost bearings due to the strut mounts weak plastic carrier.[/ul]
That install is cake....hardes part is the springs and even that is easy. If you've got some decent tools and some know how you could do it no problem.
Get some silicone grease though...
Get some silicone grease though...
I would go with the BMR kit and add lca's. The biggest thing is the strut mounts. They really need to be replaced. I'm not a big fan of any "kit", but BMR's is the most practical.
Here they are $300 so that kit actually seems like a good buy now! http://www.lmperformance.com/15853/87.html
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