Need help slowing my pony
#1
Need help slowing my pony
I'm having trouble stopping my stang from speeds over 100 mph. I'm thinking it's my rotors heating up. Does anyone else have this problem? Has anyone fixed this problem if so how? I know if i stopdriving over100 MPH that would fix it too. I don't see that happening!
#4
RE: Need help slowing my pony
The S197 Mustang has a lot of good points, but braking is not one of them. Any high speed braking causes my brakes to fade almost immediately. This is a will known Mustang problem.I watch a lot of Speed Channelracing and every time Mustang's are competingyou willhear thecommentators and race drivers talking about theMustang brakes. In most of these races the Mustang can't keep up with the Porsches,Corvettes, CTSs or Vipers in the corners because they have to brake sooner than the other cars. They say the Mustang's handling is good, the power is good, but the brakes just fade awaysooner than the other cars.
For a street application you could go with 14' rotors and 4 piston calipers. You generally will also need 18 X 9.5 rims to clear the rotors and calipers. Also if you choose to go with new brakes make sure they are compatible the Mustang's ABS. I was going to upgrade my brakes right up to the point that I found out I needed 18 X 9.5 rims(my Stang came with 18 X 8.5 rims) so by the time it would all be done, I would have had to spend over $4K for rims, tires, brakes and labor. I built up my car for low end torque, not high speed racing and Ihave only overheated the brakes a couple of times since I bought the car six months ago,so the brake upgrade is off the table for now.
Good Luck!
For a street application you could go with 14' rotors and 4 piston calipers. You generally will also need 18 X 9.5 rims to clear the rotors and calipers. Also if you choose to go with new brakes make sure they are compatible the Mustang's ABS. I was going to upgrade my brakes right up to the point that I found out I needed 18 X 9.5 rims(my Stang came with 18 X 8.5 rims) so by the time it would all be done, I would have had to spend over $4K for rims, tires, brakes and labor. I built up my car for low end torque, not high speed racing and Ihave only overheated the brakes a couple of times since I bought the car six months ago,so the brake upgrade is off the table for now.
Good Luck!
#5
RE: Need help slowing my pony
I just ordered brake lines, pads,these ducts, along with the front lower grill to help.
I couldn't afford to get a big brake kit right now, so I am hoping these will help until I can get better, multi piston calipers.
http://www.agentfortyseven.com/other...ing_other.html
I couldn't afford to get a big brake kit right now, so I am hoping these will help until I can get better, multi piston calipers.
http://www.agentfortyseven.com/other...ing_other.html
#6
RE: Need help slowing my pony
Also, changing your brake fluid from DOT 3 to DOT 4 will help a lot. Dot 4 brake fluid has a higher boiling point. Or you can go to DOT5, but there are a few things to watch out for. Dot5 does NOT absorb water like DOT 3 and 4, so youll have to flush your brake fluid about once a year (not a bad idea with any car), also when you switch to DOT 5 (silicone)you have to replace ALL of the fluid and make sure its compatible with the rubber parts of your braking system.
I'd reccomend you change to a DOT 5.1, this will raise the dry boiling point to 500*+ F. And like DOT 3&4, DOT 5.1 is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water. Also, with its higher resistance to boiling itll help prevent air bubbles forming from boiling your brake fluid. If you drive 100+ you should have this fluid in your braking system.
As for some brake fluid tech here's some facts - since brake fluid absorbs water, the more water it absorbs the lower the boiling point gets. Brake fluid SHOULD get flushed regularly (about once a year), this not only will help prevent rust (internally), but it will keep your boiling point where it should be. Which will help you resist brake fade.
Heres some other facts, DOT3 dry boiling point 401*F wet boiling point 284*F, DOT4 Dry boiling point 446*F, wet boiling point 311*F, DOT5 dry boiling point 509*F, wet boiling point 356*F.
-P.
I'd reccomend you change to a DOT 5.1, this will raise the dry boiling point to 500*+ F. And like DOT 3&4, DOT 5.1 is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water. Also, with its higher resistance to boiling itll help prevent air bubbles forming from boiling your brake fluid. If you drive 100+ you should have this fluid in your braking system.
As for some brake fluid tech here's some facts - since brake fluid absorbs water, the more water it absorbs the lower the boiling point gets. Brake fluid SHOULD get flushed regularly (about once a year), this not only will help prevent rust (internally), but it will keep your boiling point where it should be. Which will help you resist brake fade.
Heres some other facts, DOT3 dry boiling point 401*F wet boiling point 284*F, DOT4 Dry boiling point 446*F, wet boiling point 311*F, DOT5 dry boiling point 509*F, wet boiling point 356*F.
-P.
#8
RE: Need help slowing my pony
+1
I have SS lines, Hawk HPS pads and ATE Super Blue (DOT 4) fluid. I was at Waterford Hills road course over the weekend and was very happy with the braking results. I was braking at around 250 foot mark (from 90 – 95 mph) on the back straight into a very tight 90 degree turn on stock tires.
The ATE sit lists a"dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F" for the Super Blue and TYP 200 fluids.
I have SS lines, Hawk HPS pads and ATE Super Blue (DOT 4) fluid. I was at Waterford Hills road course over the weekend and was very happy with the braking results. I was braking at around 250 foot mark (from 90 – 95 mph) on the back straight into a very tight 90 degree turn on stock tires.
The ATE sit lists a"dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F" for the Super Blue and TYP 200 fluids.
#9
RE: Need help slowing my pony
ORIGINAL: Red06
+1
I have SS lines, Hawk HPS pads and ATE Super Blue (DOT 4) fluid. I was at Waterford Hills road course over the weekend and was very happy with the braking results. I was braking at around 250 foot mark (from 90 – 95 mph) on the back straight into a very tight 90 degree turn on stock tires.
The ATE sit lists a"dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F" for the Super Blue and TYP 200 fluids.
+1
I have SS lines, Hawk HPS pads and ATE Super Blue (DOT 4) fluid. I was at Waterford Hills road course over the weekend and was very happy with the braking results. I was braking at around 250 foot mark (from 90 – 95 mph) on the back straight into a very tight 90 degree turn on stock tires.
The ATE sit lists a"dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F" for the Super Blue and TYP 200 fluids.
http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www/...f_info_us.html
-P.
#10
RE: Need help slowing my pony
ORIGINAL: 05GTFirefighter
...I know if i stopdriving over100 MPH that would fix it too. I don't see that happening!
...I know if i stopdriving over100 MPH that would fix it too. I don't see that happening!
I know something that will get your car to slow down, a suspended license.