Mikes_BLK_GT

I currently have Lowering springs, dampers, sway bars, and strut tower brace. What other mods can I do to upgrade my suspension for mostly bolt on mods. I've seen alot of post for upper and lower control arms among other things but not entirely sure what those will do for me. Also starting to think about stainless steel break lines and hawk pads, but probably wont upgrade wheel size and bigger brakes since that is like power adders cost prohibitive. Just dont know a whole lot about the suspension but probably should with other mods I'm looking into.

RodeoFlyer

relocating your front control arms and adding anti-squat brackets in the rear will do a lot for you

howarmat

https://mustangforums.com/m_1696246/tm.htm#1700694

dseid2

Mikes_BLK_GT

Relocating front or rearcontrol arms are best done by welding on the new brackets.I have not done these modsbecause I don't want to weld anything on to my carso I can easily returnthe car to stock someday many years from now. Other bolt onsuspension modsinclude rearlower control armsto help control wheel hop.Upper control armwhich also helps withrear wheel tractionby allowing one to adjust the pinion angle (mostly for drag racing or cars that are really, reallylow). Adjustable panhard rod (and heavy duty panhard brace) which helps to center the axle on a lowered car. For the front end an easy bolt on is an A-Arm support which ties the bottom of the A-Arms together and works very well in conjunction with a strut tower brace which you already have. A recently purchased the Steeda G-Track brace (Steeda's version of an A-Arm support, see pic below) for 59.95 and installed it in my garage in under an hour. An A-Arm support helps to stop thefront suspension (strut towers)from deflecting under heavy loads (hard turns), basically keeps the tires pointed in the direction you point them and keeps the tire contact patch on the ground.

I agree with you on the brake upgrades. I was thinking about going with 14" front rotors and 4 piston calipers, but chucked that idea when I found out that I would have to upgrade my 18X8.5's to 18X9.5's to fit the calipers. Will go with Hawk pads, slotted rotors, brake lines and high temp brake fluid when I do my first brake job.

Hope this helps, good luck!



[IMG]local://upfiles/63299/164DF224D42D4EE38C596D789AB6A1B2.jpg[/IMG]

Mikes_BLK_GT

So looking at my car it is about .5"-1" higher in the rear than the front. Many cars I've see in these forum are evenly lowered fron to back. WIth what I have in FRPP parts do I need to change srpings/shocks on the rear to lower it down that half inch to inch? If done right will that improve handling? Rear control arms I have to do for a driveshaft so I'm planning that but I would rather not replace the FRPP parts if I dont have to even though they came with the car I gotta keep cost down somehow [&:] Also how do you measure ride height? The difference from fron to rear on my car is visible which is the only reason I know it's there. I've given in to the wifes "line in the sand" on power adders but I want to make sure I keep my suspension up with my drive train mods.

howarmat

Mine is about even and I have the FRPP springs only...so I am not totally sure why yours is different.

Mikes_BLK_GT

maybe I'm seeing things, how can I measure it to tell for sure? I have measured from floor to the of the fender right above tire but that doesnt seem like any kind of real indication to me

howarmat

Measure the gap from the top of the wheel...not tire...to the fender....you can do a tire measurement too.

Mikes_BLK_GT

4 5/8" front 5 3/8" back measured from top of the wheel to the fender, no other mods done yet and looking at the ford racing page it only shows one set of 2 dampers in the handling package so I would assume the rear shocks were not changed but I dont know if that would matter.

howarmat

That could have something to do with it not sure though.