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UCA/Panhard Bar question

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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 06:28 PM
  #1  
Stang Runner's Avatar
Stang Runner
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Default UCA/Panhard Bar question


Hello. I just bought a used 2007 Mustang GT and it has a lowering kit on it with everything else being stock. I'm going to install BMR LCA's and relocation brackets on it to reduce the wheel hop. Does anyone feel it be necessary to install UCA's and a panhard bar as well? I'm not going to take it down the track at all. I'll get on it once in a while in 1st gear but that's it. More of a summer pleasure driver.
Thanks,
J.D
Old Mar 15, 2008 | 06:50 AM
  #2  
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shooter23
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Default RE: UCA/Panhard Bar question

If your not going to see track use then I would skip the UCA...the PHB is a good one because when the cars are lowered, it will uncentre the axle even more...and the adj panhard bar will bring that axle back in.

LCA, brackets and a PHB is a good start-up for the rear suspension and will def put teh power to the road, not to wheel-hop
Old Mar 15, 2008 | 11:54 PM
  #3  
DeStonn's Avatar
DeStonn
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From: Southern California(Orange County)
Default RE: UCA/Panhard Bar question

If you are even remotely thinking of a 1 piece DR you should get an adj. uca as that will allow you to adjust the pinion angle.

Get the relocation brackets so you can change the angle of the LCAs. From what I have been told the LCAs will not make a difference if they are at the same angle as the stock.
Old Mar 17, 2008 | 02:59 PM
  #4  
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Sam Strano
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Default RE: UCA/Panhard Bar question

First, I don't think you think need the LCA brackets. It's well known to some that lowering these cars actually helps wheelhop, it does not make it worse. And we've been pretty much killing hop with just a quality set of lower arms, the few times that didn't do it all, the addition of an upper did. The PHB, while a good upgrade for handling and such will NOT have a wheelhop effect.

I sell UMI products, and I use them on my own cars. I'd invite you to take a look at them here: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...&ModelID=5

Many different types, but the most popular are the single adjustables (2nd ones down) because they don't bind the axle up in roll, mount to the body with urethane to isolate any potential rod-end noise, and kill wind-up in because it's a strong 1.375" OD x .095" wall tubing and the rod-end and bushings don't deflect.

I'm very much a person who believes in recommending items based upon what the car is doing, and not overbuying. Now, there might be reasons to do the upper, lowers and PHB that you haven't touched upon. But from what I see here, I'd recommend a set of good lowers to start.
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